where to buy drill and tap

[just-an-illusion]

Where have you guys been buying your drill and taps? I have got a machinest/gun buddy who is going to drill and tap my 12ga pardner for a scope rail. The screws that came with the rail are #5-44. Ive looked on Brownells and Travers Tool for a #37 2 flute end mill with no luck. I am not against stepping up to a larger screw if need be. Thanks in advance

[quickdtoo]

Brownells.com has what you need including 6-48 0r even better, 8-40 screws, taps and drills. That said, most gunsmiths and H&R won't drill and tap a 12ga shotgun barrel,  I'd silver solder it on rather than take the chance of getting hurt or ruining the barrel, putting multiple holes in the thin chamber is risky, but I know it has been done. Warne makes a couple steel Handi-rifle rails that are made for the same barrel contour as the 12ga.

Tim

[Spanky]

I've seen 12ga. barrels with the mount holes drilled through the barrel into the chamber. The mount was screwed on and the screws were ground perfectly flush with the inside of the chamber. Both of those barrels have fired lots and lots of shells including slugs with no problems. I'm not a gunsmith by any means and I'm not recommending that anyone do it that way but it worked out alright for those barrels. That being said... I would do as Tim said and silver solder a mount on if there was any question as to whether or not it could be drilled and tapped properly.



Spanky

[just-an-illusion]

Thanks guys. I was going to have him only drill the rearmost hole for a recoil lug. Ive read most of the posts on here concerning the matter and was still up in the air as to which way would be best. What solder would be the best to use? It also crossed my mind to TIG a steel base on, but aint sure how that would work.

[quickdtoo]

There's a fella on ebay selling 94/6 silver solder in a kit for less than $20, it has a low melting point and good strength, see Soldering Shims in the H&R Centerfire rifle forum, it's a page back or so.

Tim

[Airsporter]

FWIW, I've never heard of a mount using 5-44!?  99.9% are 6-48 or 8-40.  You sure it isn't 5-40 or metric?

[just-an-illusion]

they are 5-44's. the base is a weaver 1 piece for an 870 supermag. Im gonna order a steel base for a handi and use the method quickdtoo suggested or find a way to cool the inside of the barrel and TIG it, and use this one on my 20ga with some 6-40s. thanks, jason

[quickdtoo]

Just jury rig a garden hose to the barrel with duct tape or whatever and run water thru it. 

Tim

[just-an-illusion]

Quick= Do you think that plain water will keep it cool enough? I was thinking along the lines of dry ice. Thanks

[tacklebury]

Don't do dry ice, or when you strike an arc and heat it up it'll crack.  Water works well, just put a restriction in the exit end by taping over the end and then punch some holes to keep a slow steady flow.  Or you could tape on a valve if you wanted more control.    Dry ice is too extreme a cooling process.

[quickdtoo]

Quick= Do you think that plain water will keep it cool enough? I was thinking along the lines of dry ice. Thanks

Water will work fine, another member here did a lot of welding on H&R rifle barrels to modify the underlug, that's what he did.

Tim

[just-an-illusion]

Thanks very much guys

[Tommyt]

What if you used and empty Hull  filled with H20 and froze It
would it not be long enough ?

Tommyt

[tacklebury]

Honestly in my experience and from watching others, you would melt the ice out pretty quick then be unprotected.  At the business I work for, they TIG weld all day long and water or Aluminum Weld blocks with holes drilled through and around to keep flowing air cooling the block are what they typically use.  With something as sensitive to warping as a barrel, I'd probably stick with water.    I'm not a pro welder, though, so maybe someone else would think otherwise.