building up an extractor on a mauser

[mrbigtexan]

has anyone tried to build up the extractor on a mauser. the problem is i am trying to rebarrel one to 7.62x39 and it does'nt quite hold the case in to the bolt face. the case won't slip through but it doesn't snap in either.

[Les Brooks]

You can take a Dremel tool and the thin waffers grinding wheels about 1 inch in diameter and dress down the wheel to fit the inside of the extractor and remove some metal to allow it to move closer to the case head.  This is a problem that can be fixed if it doesn't take off too much metal.  More than one place may need to be ground down a few thousands.  It is not enough to make the extractor too weak.

[gunnut69]

A mauser extractor doesn't really have a stop to grind off. The tail might be bent a bit but I've never extended one. The extractor is a spring and heat from welding would likely destroy that property. The simplest fix would be a new unfitted extractor from Brownells... Otherwise perhaps a steel blade sweated to the exissting blade with the tail of the extractor wrapped in cloth soaked with water to keep it cool.. Remember the case head is trapped between the extractor blade and the lumps on the oposite side of the bolt face. These may well need building up also. Just an aside though, the only mauser converted to 7.62x39 that I've had any dealings with didn't snap the case in the extractor either but the rifle fed and ejected spent rounds just fine.. Perhaps it ain't broke?

[redleg155]

A real mauser extractor should NEVER snap over a case rim.  The mauser design feeds the case from the magazine up into the extractor / bolt face.  In fact, a real mauser bolt gun cannot be loaded by hand-feeding a round into the chamber and closing the bolt - can't be done.  That is the foundation of controlled round feeding and the reason a mauser bolt will rip the rim off a stuck case.  A beautiful design really.

Many modern "claw extractor" variants have the classic mauser look but do not perform like a real mauser.  I believe factory CZ bolt guns are set up correctly - there may be more I don't know of.

redleg

[fireball168]

There is enough meat on these to easily do 7.62x39, a customer built a 358 Gremlin on a 98 action last year.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9490/Product/MAUSER_EXTRACTOR

For the money, might not be worth the hassle of trying to modify one.

[gunnut69]

Redleg- I believe you are misunderstanding. The snap I'm speaking of is the case into the extractor and bolt face lumps. This does indeed happen and indicatesd a very well fitted extractor. You're likely refering to the mistaken assertion of many that a mauser can't be single loaded as the extractor won't snap over the case head. The truth is that if one simply applies thumb pressure to the extractor tail the blade will easily pop over the casehead of a single loaded round. The extractor is meant to load a case from the bottom as it rises from the magazine. Once in the extractor it will be chambered or ejected depending on the bolts direction of motion. This eliminates short stroking and try to feed to rounds.. Happens in the heat of battle. The lumps on the side of the bolt face provide a stop against which the case is held by the extractor.

[redleg155]

GN69 - Yes.  You're correct about flexing the extractor.  I didn't mean to be misleading; I just think that too many shooters expect a "claw extractor" to perform like a push feed action.  Obviously, you know what I'm meaning by that. 

I have 2 custom Mauser rifles and both rely on feeding from below only; I don't think it's a good practice to flex a Mauser extractor.  I'd rather push one out with a rod or bump the rifle's butt on the ground gently to do the job.

very best regards - redleg

[gunnut69]

I am far from an expert but in the few mausers I've dealt with its been used to good effect. The extraactor as made by mauser will be fine. Some of the extractors Winchester put of the later versions of the M70 weren't springs and so failed miserably. I found a loose extractor once when putting up a 22-250 for a friend on a 98. Lightly flexing the tail, bending the extractor a bit reloaded the spring a bit a it worked just. Of course I have no doubt that continued flexing of that extractor would soon loosen it again. I consider it true that no rifle has been better engineered than a M98 mauser. I don't believe such an action could even be made today.

[tnekkc]

I have TIG welded material to two Mauser extractors and used Brownells extractor blank on one.

I have made two .223 Mausers and one 7.62x25mm Mauser.
My brother has made one 223 Mauser.

The Brownells part is a pain to fit.
The TIG weld can break off.
They are just single shots.
The feeding must be babied.
It takes a lot of time and fussing

I have given up.
I still convert Mausers to magnum bolt face, but I have quit converting Mausers to small bolt face.

One can buy a Rem700 or CZ527 or Sav bolt or  Stevens bolt action and re barrel, all much easier.

[gunnut69]

The problem with welding onto a spring is a tough one but re-heat treating would be the likely answer.. I've never tried to do that..

[mauser98us]

The mauser extractor is arched like a spring on a vehicle. Not sure if that heat treated metal will take to welding very well,and I'm not sure it can be re-heattreated without becoming brittle.Guess one could ask a metalsmith or somebody familar with metalurgy.

[gunnut69]

The only way to get a M98 to feed the 223 would be to use a trick of Winchester's, install a section of magazine in the feed position of the action. The bolt has to be able to  strip a round but using a double stack magazine shuld allow enough room for that to occur. The &.63x39 may be made to feed from a M98 but there would be a lot of mads to be made. A piece of AK47 mag would likely work better..

As for springs they can be retempered but I'm certainly not an expert. I've made springs but only when not available from other sources. A hot salt setup is the best thing there is to temper small springs as they are thin enough to decarberize if heated in a Oxygen atmosphere. The salt heat the metal and protects it from oxygen at the same time.. Pretty cheap to set up too... I've used one but never seem to think to set one up when ordering from Brownells..