synthetic forarm tips

[PartsMan]

My synthetic 7mm-08 is shooting bad (4-5" at 100yd) and seems to go up (8-10") as it heats up.
Most of the forearm tricks for wood just don't seem like they would work with the synthetic.
Any tips out there?

[quickdtoo]

I used a ½" OD x ¼" ID nylon spacer from the hardware store to float the forend on my Superlight, drill the forend pocket out to ½" and put the spacer into the pocket as a sort of pillar. The spacer I found was too tall at 3/8", so I had to cut it to about 1/8"-3/16". You'll need a longer screw most likely, I used a ¾" instead of the ½" standard screw. If you need to change the position of the hole slightly to increase or decrease how tight the forend fits, you'll want to epoxy the spacer in place.

Tim

[PartsMan]

Thanks, what part of the hardware store did you find that in?
I tried putting a 1/8" piece of rubber out at the end of the forearm but it made things worse.
I think I have some 3/4" screw but they are Allen head. (not as handi as a philips)

[quickdtoo]

In the small parts/nuts and bolts area of the store, Ace should have them, they also have the screws although to get the phillips head, they were stainless.

Tim

[PartsMan]

Found some 1/4"x1/2" rubber bushings at work about 1/4" tall.
I cut a couple in half. I"ll try them.

PS Ace IS the place.
If they sold guns it would be my favorite store.

[PartsMan]

I took the rubber spacer that I had put between the for end and barrel last night so I could try some bushings on the stud.
Put the thinnest piece of bushing I had in and my barrel was 3/8" from the for end.
My for end is now an 1/8" from touching the barrel with no spacers or bushings at all.
Apparently it formed with the rubber spacer!
I think I'll shoot it like that before trying a bushing.

[quickdtoo]

That's what I don't like about using an O-ring, pressure on the barrel isn't always the same, in cold/hot weather it may not shoot the same, specially if the screw torque changes each time the forend is installed. If you use a torque tool to set the screw to the same torque before each time out, it would eliminate that issue tho.

Tim

[cwall]

I used a ½" OD x ¼" ID nylon spacer from the hardware store to float the forend on my Superlight, drill the forend pocket out to ½" and put the spacer into the pocket as a sort of pillar. The spacer I found was too tall at 3/8", so I had to cut it to about 1/8"-3/16". You'll need a longer screw most likely, I used a ¾" instead of the ½" standard screw. If you need to change the position of the hole slightly to increase or decrease how tight the forend fits, you'll want to epoxy the spacer in place.

Tim

I am new to the site but have enjoyed it very much.  The abundance of information available has resulted in some confusion on my part.  I recently purchased a synthetic 45-70 Handi rifle, and it quickly became my favorite gun.  There is just something about that little rifle that grows on you.  In fact, I like it so much that I bought my son one so we could enjoy them together.  Now back to my question.  The subject is barrel bedding as opposed to floating.  When should you bed, and when should you float?  Or is it a process of elimination?

Thanks,
cwall

[cwlongshot]

I am new to the site but have enjoyed it very much.  The abundance of information available has resulted in some confusion on my part.  I recently purchased a synthetic 45-70 Handi rifle, and it quickly became my favorite gun.  There is just something about that little rifle that grows on you.  In fact, I like it so much that I bought my son one so we could enjoy them together.  Now back to my question.  The subject is barrel bedding as opposed to floating.  When should you bed, and when should you float?  Or is it a process of elimination?

Thanks,
cwall

 WELCOME CWALL!!!

 The process is one of elimination. Our barrels and guns are all different. I may prefer brunets and you red heads, while Tim prefers Blonde's. Well our guns and there barrels are much the same. Some prefer forend pressure and bedding. Others will not shoot unless free floated and still others don't care what you do, they flatly shoot everything well. Then there is different bedding, like partial, lug and pillar. OH, it can get fun!! 

 The FAQ's are a wealth of knowledge from many members trials and tribulations. You and every member here has them at his/her complete disposal. Go grab a cup of coffee and sit down and take and look, you will be glad you did.

 Good luck,
 CW

[cwall]

Many thanks for the reply.  I figured that was the case, but thought I would ask anyway.  I understand from previous posts that you had some health issues.  I trust everything is as it should be now.

Thanks again,
Clayton Wall

[cwlongshot]

Clayton,
 Thank you very much for the kind words!! 

 YES, I am doing excellently. I'm finally back to work, half days and lite duty, but I am back. Getting better/stronger daily. Docs are happy as I am down another five pounds and my blood "numbers" look good. I feel better, brighter and "clearer" than I have in a long time.

CW

[cwall]

Instead of using the O ring, try getting a couple of #12 split lock washers and spreading them out with a couple of pliers until they will fit over your forearm screw.  They will fit into the stud hole of the forearm without any modification and offer a consistant seat when the forearm is attached.  I used stainless washers, and they worked fine.

C Wall

[sarg1c]

New to the forum, been reading the post on the "O"rings on thr H&R handi-rifles. I've got the .204Ruger Heavy barrelled H&R and was wandering it the "O" ring was necessary for the Heavy Barreled guns. I put an "O"ring on mine last night and the I can pass a dollar bill between barrel and forearm. Is this necessary?

[necchi]

welcome sarg,
 I have a 223 bull and have done just what you describe and it did help.
The tipp in the faq's is; remove the forearm and shoot it, if groups improve then it needs forearm work. Load, remove the forearm, shoot, put the forearm up against the barrel to open and load,, repeat.
 There are several things that can be done listed in the faq's. I ended up useing a variation of the RTV bedding trick, I just used a narrow band of RTV silicon about an inch wide centered on the lug, and I used the 1/4" set screw inside the lug to maintain the same torque/stop on the screw.
 With tips an tweeks, I'm shooting 1/2 MOA,,that's the fun part