Misfires

[billjoe]

Ok guys, someone knows the answer to this.  I fire formed .225 brass for a 6.5JDJ.  I had to snap the barrel closed pretty briskly and sometimes multiple times before the round would fire.  I figured its a headspace situation with the brass needing to be fireformed.

I reloaded the fire formed brass.  I can't get any of them to fire, even after slamming the action closed several times.  

I then started to investigate closer.  I have to close the chamber briskly even when there is no cartridge in the chamber to get the hammer to release so that it would contact the firing pin.  Otherwise it will hang up about 1/16" off the pins.  Works the same way on a different frame as well.

Is this a headspace problem or a barrel problem?  Seems like a barrel problem since it does not fire unless slammed shut.

Anybody had this situation before or know how to remedy it?  Thanks for you comments.

bj :?

[KN]

Sounds like the locking lugs are not engaging deep enough. Call TC and get new lugs or you can cut down the ones you have to let them engage farther. If you don't know what your doing I would advise against the latter as you could screw them up fairly easily. All you need to do is belt sand the taper portion of the lug so it goes deeper into the frame. Be cautious that they need to remain flat and square to the world while you do this. KN

[helobill]

KN hit the most probable cause. If the locking bolts are not engaging far enough they won't center the interlock safety, so the hammer will not hit the firing pin. If you take off the grip and remove the trigger group, you can see if the interlock is actually being centered by closing the barrel and looking up from where the trigger should be. You'll have to reinstall the trigger to open the action. Is the barrel hard to close or just hard to lock up? If it's hard to close you could have some major problems, but if it closes okay, just won't lock in place or doesn't lock completely than you most likely have bolts that are too tall for your frame. If you have another barrel (or can borrow one for a quick test) try that and see how it works. First thing I'd do though is REALLY clean everything. Take it to parade rest and clean all the parts and then reassemble. I use spray carb cleaner (a little on the extreme end of things but I used 1-1-1 "Trike" in the military and some carb cleaner is about the same stuff) for the initial cleaning of a frame and then lube where and with what I feel is best. Cleaning has fixed two frames for me now. I had one that would close fine, but the spring behind the bolts couldn't center the interlock so I couldn't get the hammer to hit the firing pin. The interlock was gummed up and wouldn't turn, all it took was a good cleaning and it's worked fine since.
Bill

[Camel 23]

I'm having a similar problem with my 7-30 barrel.  It closes and locks very easily but I am getting misfires.  After opening the barrel I can see that the primer has a slight indentation.  If I leave that round in and refire it will fire.  Any ideas?

[kciH]

It sounds like a barrel problem to me.  It's kind of hard to have a headspace problem with a round that headspaces on the rim, which all rimmed cartridges do, unless you have bad brass or a bad barrel.  I'd lean towards the barrel since it won't properly close with an empty chamber.  My first call would be to whoever made the barrel, as TC most likely didn't make it and would likely not give to much support to using barrel other than those they make.

[helobill]

Camel23,
Sounds like your firing pin is pushing the round forward the first time it hits. I'd remove the extractor and see if my round is seating fully in the chamber. Are you firing factory or reloads? You could also be pushing the primer into the brass if it's a reload and the primer wasn't seated properly. The 7-30 case SHOULD be headspacing on the rim, but if the barrel to frame gap is large and the rim is not seated on the barrel, you could be pushing the round forward as it's trying to fire. With the extractor removed, you can make sure the round's rim is fully engaged and then fire it. After firing, measure the case length against an unfired one. How much did it lengthen. If the frame to barrel gap is too large, you will most likely have to send the barrel back to the manufacture. The barrel lug may have been mislocated when they welded it in place, or the frame could be stretched (very rare but possible, is this the only barrel that causes the problem or does any barrel on this frame have a problem).
Bill

[Hawkeye]

Had the same problem on my .223 Contender. Asked around and took the barrel off, polished the locking lugs with a fine stone, tried it, polished a little more and Bingo, everything is working.

Had a problem with my 7-30 Waters hitting primers but not firing. Call TC, they sent two hammer springs. Installed and it has never missed a beat since. The frame was older and had original spring in it. You will have to fabricate a slave pin to put in place with spring and hammer on it and then push the regular pin in and push the slave pin out with it. Works like a champ.
I ordered two more springs and replaced all of the hammer springs in all of my frames.

Mike

[Camel 23]

helobill,  Yes I am using reloads.  I've been using this barrel and frame combination for about 8 years now without a problem until now.  I haven't had any problems with other barrels.

[billjoe]

It sounds like the locking lugs is a good theory.  Honing them down is a little scary for me though.  I called SSK and talked with them about the problem.  I sent them the barrel to check over.    I didn't feel comfortable honing on the lugs, wrisking the possibility of it ever coming open when I fire.

I'm gonna clean my frames regardless...good idea.

bj