.38 special in .357 Model 97

[makilly]

Curios as to why FA prohibits firing .38 spc. when other manufacturers say O.K. Makilly

[SJPrice]

My understanding is that the chambers run very close tolerances on the FA guns and the concern is that the build up of a powder ring in front of the shorter cartridge could cause a problem when firing the higher pressure rounds.  I think this is of more concern with the 45 colt in the 454 cylinder or the 480 Ruger in the 475 cylinder, but is a pretty good precaution in all dual caliber situations.  Again, just my understanding from reading past posts.

[Ken ONeill]

Provided you clean the chambers THOROUGHLY, you'd have no problem with the .38 Spec. / .357 Mag.
The .357 operates @ 25-30,000 psi less than the .454 Casull. If a person doesn't know how to truly clean chambers after each shooting and / or doesn't know what a really clean gun is, they shouldn't do it with a FA.
A friend recently brought me a GP-100 that "wouldn't shoot double action"...you guessed it...I brushed out each chamber...they were gunked up with lead...and MIRACLE (!) suddenly .357's would chamber without dragging the breechface and the gun worked. Maybe it's the old Marine in me...I HATE dirty guns!

[Graybeard]

Once you buy it then it's your gun and you can do as you please. Bob and the folks at FA just tell ya what you should do for long life and good service. If you wish to ignore what they say and do it anyway they aren't gonna come take it back from you. Of course if you ignore what they tell you they might chose to ignore the warranty also.

The FA guns are made with far greater control of tolerances than any other production gun I'm aware of. The very tight fit this gives can make it a bit of a problem is you build up a crude ring and try to fire longer ammo and if you shoot enough to erode a gap at the end the count on problems.

[HAMMERHEAD]

I have done it, but I'm never completely comfortable doing it. I have to chuck a .40 caliber bore brush into a cordless drill to get the chambers clean enough for .357.

Then I get renewed enthusiasm for handloading in .357 brass.

If you need to shoot factory ammo and want something on the lighter side, try Winchester USA .357 110 grain JHP's.

[tikka3006]

I have done it, but I'm never completely comfortable doing it. I have to chuck a .40 caliber bore brush into a cordless drill to get the chambers clean enough for .357.

Then I get renewed enthusiasm for handloading in .357 brass.

I am new to this site.

Today I ordered my 1st FA
357 mag
5.5" barrel
action job
OT screw
green fiber front site and a V notch rear site

I do the same trick to clean cylinders as the fellow I quoted with my other revolvers.
I use a 40 cal nylon brush, wet with M pro 7 cleaner, and a battery drill at low RPM.

No problems right?

[HAMMERHEAD]

I am new to this site.

Today I ordered my 1st FA
357 mag
5.5" barrel
action job
OT screw
green fiber front site and a V notch rear site

I do the same trick to clean cylinders as the fellow I quoted with my other revolvers.
I use a 40 cal nylon brush, wet with M pro 7 cleaner, and a battery drill at low RPM.

No problems right?

First, congrats on your order and welcome to the forum!

I'm not an expert, but from what I understand long term use of .38's in a magnum chamber is not recommended. I've done it in S&W's, a Python and my .357 Handi rifle and have not had any trouble, but with the tight, precise chambers of the F/A, it is more likely to cause problems. I don't fully understand the technicalities of it, but it's more than just removing a crud ring to allow magnum brass to chamber.

If I had it to do over, I would have coughed up the dough and gotten the .38 spl cylinder fitted when I ordered it. It's cheaper than having one retro fitted. I like to do most of my .357" shooting with .38 special brass, and my model 97 gets used less because of it.

You could probably call them and see if it can be done for the lower price since they probably haven't started on your gun yet.