Found a used Stevens 200 this weekend!

[4given]

Well I was looking for my first Handi Rifle & wound up with a Stevens 200 in .243!   Just couldn't pass up the deal. $250.00 with Leupold mounts & rings & a Bushnell 4x12 scope with AO.  Real nice shape looks to be barely used.

So I will be needing you guys help in getting the trigger set up decent & doing something to stiffen up the stock.

Anybody have instructions for the trigger adjustment? Any tips on stiffining the forend of the stock inexpensively?

I saw the thread were the guy used a piece of steel & epoxy then did a nice splatter paint job. I just wonder what that cost him to do. I am very budget minded right now.

I checked online for the price of the Devcon epoxy he used & it was 5.99 for a one ounce tube of it. It looks like he filled the forend channel up pretty good with it and the bedded the action with it. I can't imagine a 1 ounce tube would go very far. If it took 10 tubes that's 60 bucks then the steel and the paint. I can imagine this project getting up towards $80 - $100. Am I figuring this right?  If it costs that much it might be better to order a Boyds laminate stock for $92.00

Anyway I an looking forward to getting this thing shooting those little teeeny weeny groups  some of you are enjoying!!

[bubba.50]

can't lay my hands on it right at the moment but, i bought a package of j-b weld at advance auto and the tubes are like 6 or 8 ounces. about the size of toothpaste tubes, maybe fatter. think it was like 10 or 15 bucks. for what it's worth and good luck, bubba.

[Slowpoke Slim]

If you take the action out of the stock and look over the trigger, you'll see it's a very simple design. All I did to mine was to use one of my small sharpening stones to stone the cut edges off the corners of the trigger where it mates to the sear. I didn't do anything to change the radius or angle, but merely knocked the rough corners down. I also turned about a quarter to a half turn off the spring tension screw. You do have to be careful here, because turning more off the screw will make the trigger unsafe, and it will trip the trigger with a sharp blow to the rifle. I experimented and adjusted mine by turning a bit, and putting it back in the stock and whacking the side of the rifle, and slamming the bolt closed a few times. If you just slam the buttstock on the ground, it will only set the safety to "on", and not really test the trigger.

My trigger still breaks at around 4 pounds, but there's no creep at all now, where it was like 8 pounds before and creeped like mad, felt like gravel all the way back before. There are several aftermarket triggers out there too, if you want lighter, but for me and my purpose 4 pounds works ok. It's just a 'yote calling rifle and most distances are well under 300, usually under 100 yds.

Mine's a 223, and accuracy with my handloads has been exceptional, and that's with the crappy, flimsy, squishy, plastic factory stock that everybody hates. It shoots so good though, I'm afraid to mess with it, so the factory stock stays on mine. Other than messing with the trigger, mine's completely original out of the box.

[4given]

can't lay my hands on it right at the moment but, i bought a package of j-b weld at advance auto and the tubes are like 6 or 8 ounces. about the size of toothpaste tubes, maybe fatter. think it was like 10 or 15 bucks. for what it's worth and good luck, bubba.

Good old JB Weld!  Many an old tractor held together with JG weld! Good stuff!

[4given]

If you take the action out of the stock and look over the trigger, you'll see it's a very simple design. All I did to mine was to use one of my small sharpening stones to stone the cut edges off the corners of the trigger where it mates to the sear. I didn't do anything to change the radius or angle, but merely knocked the rough corners down. I also turned about a quarter to a half turn off the spring tension screw. You do have to be careful here, because turning more off the screw will make the trigger unsafe, and it will trip the trigger with a sharp blow to the rifle. I experimented and adjusted mine by turning a bit, and putting it back in the stock and whacking the side of the rifle, and slamming the bolt closed a few times. If you just slam the buttstock on the ground, it will only set the safety to "on", and not really test the trigger.

My trigger still breaks at around 4 pounds, but there's no creep at all now, where it was like 8 pounds before and creeped like mad, felt like gravel all the way back before. There are several aftermarket triggers out there too, if you want lighter, but for me and my purpose 4 pounds works ok. It's just a 'yote calling rifle and most distances are well under 300, usually under 100 yds.

Mine's a 223, and accuracy with my handloads has been exceptional, and that's with the crappy, flimsy, squishy, plastic factory stock that everybody hates. It shoots so good though, I'm afraid to mess with it, so the factory stock stays on mine. Other than messing with the trigger, mine's completely original out of the box.

I am more concerned with the trigger than the stock at this point. I KNOW I will have to lighten the trigger.  I don't want to spend money on the stock if I don't have to. If it shoots well like yours & does not give me any trouble I may just work on all the sharp edges with a little sand paper & leave it as is. Maybe do a camo paint job on it or something............

[LaOtto222]

Look at the barrel/stock gap. It should be generous all the way from in front of the action to the end of the stock on both sides and underneath the barrel at the end. If it isn't generous, you can sand the offending side out so that it is, or under the barrel to give it some relief. Yes, you can bend the stock over to the frame, but if you are doing this while shooting you have more issues than the stock touching the barrel during firing. You shouldn't have a twisting motion or pulling the stock to the side during firing. If you use a sling to help steady the off hand shot. The sling is anchored to the stock and should not pull off to one side, if done properly. And yes, the barrel "whips" during firing, but not enough to touch the side of the stock. Personally I like the new style stocks. They are better finished than the older style and they are light. You can stiffen up the stock, but you are going to be doing so at a weight cost. There are some very good after market stocks out there and I own a couple of them They work good for a bench or prairie dog gun, but they weigh more too. The last Stevens I bought, I left the stock on. I plan on it being a do all carry gun, from coyotes up to deer, maybe even an Elk - a 7mm-08. Good Luck and Good Shooting

[Slowpoke Slim]

I used an X-acto knife to trim all the mold flashing off the mold lines and edges on my stock. I only used sandpaper in a few spots. It took a bit of work, but now I don't slice my hands on the sharp edges anymore.

[4given]

. They are better finished than the older style and they are light. You can stiffen up the stock, but you are going to be doing so at a weight cost. There are some very good after market stocks out there and I own a couple of them They work good for a bench or prairie dog gun, but they weigh more too. The last Stevens I bought, I left the stock on. I plan on it being a do all carry gun, from coyotes up to deer, maybe even an Elk - a 7mm-08. Good Luck and Good Shooting

Yes it is a light gun & I would prefer to keep it that way. Thanks for the advice

[4given]

I used an X-acto knife to trim all the mold flashing off the mold lines and edges on my stock. I only used sandpaper in a few spots. It took a bit of work, but now I don't slice my hands on the sharp edges anymore.

I guess that is where they save a little money by leaving cleaning up the mold lines to us!

I looked again at the plastic stock on my wifes 10-22 and while you can see some definate mold lines they are not sharp like the Stevens. I duobt if they do ant extra finishing ofn the Ruger it must be a differance in the mold or the molding process.

[LaOtto222]

The older style Stevens with staggered feed had very sharp parting lines and around the false checkering, enough to cut your hand under heavy recoil. The newer style with straight feed is much better. I sanded the older style down and painted with Krylon Fusion paint. The newer style, I left alone, it was good to go as is...well I did do a bedding job on the action, added a new bolt handle, new recoil lug and trigger, but the stock is original.

[4given]

I used an X-acto knife to trim all the mold flashing off the mold lines and edges on my stock. I only used sandpaper in a few spots. It took a bit of work, but now I don't slice my hands on the sharp edges anymore.

Well I did this and the sharp edges are gone but the stock is now homlier tharn ever! LOL  It looks like an ugly stock that was attacked with a knife!

I may get out the sandpaper & krylon.........................

[4given]

The older style Stevens with staggered feed had very sharp parting lines and around the false checkering, enough to cut your hand under heavy recoil. The newer style with straight feed is much better. I sanded the older style down and painted with Krylon Fusion paint. The newer style, I left alone, it was good to go as is...well I did do a bedding job on the action, added a new bolt handle, new recoil lug and trigger, but the stock is original.

Yep mine is the older model. The magazine is attached to the action. I may paint it now that I have hacked it up with a razor knife tyring to get the sharp edges under control. Maybe some sort of camo pattern might purdy it up some.  Not that it really matters, it is a utilitarian rifle, not a beauty queen. 's just that some of us can't leave well enough alone............................. 

[4given]

If you take the action out of the stock and look over the trigger, you'll see it's a very simple design. All I did to mine was to use one of my small sharpening stones to stone the cut edges off the corners of the trigger where it mates to the sear. I didn't do anything to change the radius or angle, but merely knocked the rough corners down. I also turned about a quarter to a half turn off the spring tension screw. You do have to be careful here, because turning more off the screw will make the trigger unsafe, and it will trip the trigger with a sharp blow to the rifle. I experimented and adjusted mine by turning a bit, and putting it back in the stock and whacking the side of the rifle, and slamming the bolt closed a few times. If you just slam the buttstock on the ground, it will only set the safety to "on", and not really test the trigger.

My trigger still breaks at around 4 pounds, but there's no creep at all now, where it was like 8 pounds before and creeped like mad, felt like gravel all the way back before. There are several aftermarket triggers out there too, if you want lighter, but for me and my purpose 4 pounds works ok. It's just a 'yote calling rifle and most distances are well under 300, usually under 100 yds.

Mine's a 223, and accuracy with my handloads has been exceptional, and that's with the crappy, flimsy, squishy, plastic factory stock that everybody hates. It shoots so good though, I'm afraid to mess with it, so the factory stock stays on mine. Other than messing with the trigger, mine's completely original out of the box.

So far I just adjusted the spring tension screw & got it at somewere around 4 lbs I guess. I don't have anything to measure the pull with. just a guess but it feels fine to me. Just a touch of creep, barely perceptable. Not really rough at all. It's probably good has is. I'll need to get it out & actually shoot it and then see how I like it.

[backstrap]

I bought the new stevens 200 in 243 with the camo stock,i stiffened the stock with a peace of 1/4 rod and 4 of the lock tite epoxy the tubes that are like surynges that site side by side the cost like 4 dollers a peace. it worked great stiffened the four end of the stock great but did add some weight to it