Author Topic: Original Buffalo Skinner  (Read 2273 times)

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Offline dbuz

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Original Buffalo Skinner
« on: February 21, 2004, 12:51:28 PM »
I have an "Original Buffalo Skinner" blade with "w. willms"  and "Solingen" stamped at the base. It looks like a Bowie. The blade is 8 1/8" long with a 4 3/4" base for the handle that is kind of egg shaped with threads on the end. The whole knife is about 13" long. I am going to try to make a handle for it. Does anyone have any suggestions on what kind of handle would look good on it and maybe some suggestions on how to get started making it. I can't find a deer antler that looks like it will fit.
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Offline Joel

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Original Buffalo Skinner
« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2004, 04:57:51 AM »
I'm going to suggest a first step that might be considered a bit unorthadox or possibly unsafe.  I suggest you sharpen that blade first, and see if it will take and/or hold a decent edge first.  I"m assumning it's high carbon steel vs stainless.  A LOT of the Solingen steel blades I 've seen have really low Rockwell's, around no more than 45-50.  I have two like that, that I built from, easy to assemble kits, before I started seriously making my own; neither will take/hold an edge to save it's soul.  Waste of time and money, unless you want a wall hanger.

That laminate would work for a handle.  There are two ways to put a knife like this together.  The European method is to find/make a guard that fits, add some spacers,then your handle material, then some more spacers then use a pommel nut(often slotted so you can use a screwdriver) that is drilled completely through to tighten the whole thing down.  No glues are used anywhere.  In this case of course  you'll initially  do that, and then shape everything to fit.  The egg shaped tang's purpose is to keep the tang from rotating when the handle material is added.  Quite simple to do, and the Europeans like it.   I built a kit bowie once like that(of spanish origin) and never had any problems.   Used to find that same construction on old knives made by Case and Western(among others).  Usually the handle material was a piece of european stag, but I've seen Micarta done the same way.  Laminate should be sturdy enough to handle some torquing down also.  What can occur, is that the materials gradually shrink with age and the handle loosens.  All that's needed of course is to tighten the pommel nut.

The second way would be to find/make a guard,  JB WELD it into place(or solder it...but I rarely bother with that anymore), add your handle materials(spacers, whatever is your main material); layering everything with two-ton epoxy, and then using that same drilled through pommel nut to tighten the whole mess down.  Do your shaping/finishing etc.  A more sturdy method.  A number of knife catalogs carry German style guards/pommels for the Solingen steel kits they offer.  Texas Knifemakers Supply, Kovals, Sheffields Knifemakers supply, K & G, Jantz knifemakers supply etc.,  All carry those preshaped materials. Your biggest problem might be in determining the thread pitch on your tang, however I have "re-threaded" soft brass ones to fit when I had to.  Just carefully screwed them down using a wrench to turn the nut until it takes on the new thread pitch.

Hope I'm answering at least some of your quiestions.

Offline dbuz

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Original Buffalo Skinner
« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2004, 09:12:08 AM »
I had a friend who polishes wheels buff it up a bit for me and it is still sharp after that. I have a pepper laminate blank for a forearm I was going to make for my Contender but I have bought one now. I was thinking of making something out of it.
If you can earn it, why did He have to die?