FYI - CASE ANNEALING

[NFG]

For those interested or with questions about CASE ANNEALING...GOTO  http://www.6mmbr.com/index.html  and read the article.  It is the most definitive and thorough article on annealing I've read in the past 40 years.  

I've tried...several times over the years on forums...to point out some of the "problems" associated with the "normally accepted" ways of annealing but it just turned UGLY.  This article covered all the things I  questioned and some I hadn't thought off or didn't go the extra mile to find out...the EXACT temperature range, two very excellent machines and a couple of easy to build home projects...the reasons WHY...that usually resulted in a HooHaa without half trying.

I did use a battery powered screwdriver and "spinner" to do some, but didn't know the best temp to use or what to look for, and didn't hit the right combination of flame time, spin rate, color change etc.  Finally just got tired of it.

There is an archive of articles covering just about all aspects of reloading and shooting for those who want to improve the accuracy of their rifles also...6mmBR is one of the best sites to goto for information that I've found...and the forums are full of excellent teachers, without the normal rancor or egos.

Luck

[myarmor]

Yeap ya got that right! It's on my daily to hit sites I visit. I wealth of excellent info, I only wish they would update some articles, especially their scope reviews, but I understand.




-Aaron

[necchi]

 Ya it' does behoove one to member-up and read several forums, and research several sources for, in particular, reloading information,, tips and techniques.

[gendoc]

i always trim once, if acceptable.  then ..throw it out !!!

kinda expensive shoot'n a swift, but i like to be "on tha mark" when placing the cross hairs @400yrds

better results with new than annealing, but thats me

been down that road years ago also.....never seen a benefit for the effort.

that is a gud subject tho....i'm sure it'll get some minds turn'n  

[Hairtrigger]

i always trim once, if acceptable.  then ..throw it out !!!

kinda expensive shoot'n a swift, but i like to be "on tha mark" when placing the cross hairs @400yrds
 

Buy a RCBS X-Die and you will get way more life out of your swift brass

[gendoc]

i have the x-set...the mandrel does work well with brass shoot'n 60-75gr bullets in my 1:9 handi

but it don't do justice for the 35gr running 4400 fps from my #1 with 1:14

[Curtis]

been down that road years ago also.....never seen a benefit for the effort.

that is a gud subject tho....i'm sure it'll get some minds turn'n  

Remember that there are other reasons to anneal besides eeking a few more loads out of your brass .........case forming for instance.  You work harden some brass so much in the process that annealing is essential.

Curtis

[R.W.Dale]

been down that road years ago also.....never seen a benefit for the effort.

that is a gud subject tho....i'm sure it'll get some minds turn'n  

Remember that there are other reasons to anneal besides eeking a few more loads out of your brass .........case forming for instance.  You work harden some brass so much in the process that annealing is essential.

Curtis

As is the case with my forming .30HRT from 6.8spc. If I don't anneal after forming I will lose 50% of my cases on the first firing due to cracking at the shoulder.

I fully realize my heat and dunk methiod might not be as precise or uniform as it can be. But you know what I don't care. As long as my methiod continues to give me 8x the firings as before I'll assume I'm doing things correctly enough.

[gendoc]

been down that road years ago also.....never seen a benefit for the effort.

that is a gud subject tho....i'm sure it'll get some minds turn'n  

Remember that there are other reasons to anneal besides eeking a few more loads out of your brass .........case forming for instance.  You work harden some brass so much in the process that annealing is essential.

Curtis

As is the case with my forming .30HRT from 6.8spc. If I don't anneal after forming I will lose 50% of my cases on the first firing due to cracking at the shoulder.

I fully realize my heat and dunk methiod might not be as precise or uniform as it can be. But you know what I don't care. As long as my methiod continues to give me 8x the firings as before I'll assume I'm doing things correctly enough.

i agree with both of you...

i'll stick to my way of do'n it.  i like clean shots, and no errors.
can't get everything out of something thats made for a lightning strike !!! 

[Win 1917]

I did use a battery powered screwdriver and "spinner" to do some, but didn't know the best temp to use or what to look for, and didn't hit the right combination of flame time, spin rate, color change etc.  Finally just got tired of it.

It may be worth another try. I've had good success with it. I use a cordless drill with a 3/8" drive extension and 12mm(?) socket as the case holder so it's easily and quickly dropped in the bucket of water. With temp stick on the neck I adjust the flame until the right temp is reached within 7-8 sec (7-8 of my counts anyway). It sounds silly but picking a comfortable count rythm and then adjusting the flame to match works really well for consistency. Trying to adjust your count to the flame and how fast the case is heating screwed up consistency for me. I only use the temp stick on a couple cases but when I didn't use it at all during the set-up my results were more erratic. 

[Steve P]

I know the authors of that article very well.  (Shot with Jim last week.)  Another friend of mine has one of Kenny's annealers and between he and I, we can do several thousand brass in a weekend.  Anyone shooting a LOT of ammo will save time and money using one of these case annealers.

Steve