WD40 for removing fouling

[s.w.ecology]

Hi.  Sometimes after fun at the trap range I have bad fouling in the bores of my 12 gauges.  I would like to use WD-40 as a fouling remover, prior to applying Hoppe's and then the final coat of bore/gun oil.  The WD-40 has been recommended by a couple of friends for this, and it is cheap and plentiful at the hardware store (I am a little far from the nearest gun/sporting goods store).  Does anyone use it as a cleaner, and how well does it work?

[Graybeard]

It works but there is a far quicker, easier and cleaner way to deal with it. Hoppe's and I think Tyvek and others make a rod with a fuzzy look to it just for cleaning shotgun barrels. I have both 12 and 20 gauge versions and I can barely force the 20 down 28 barrels as well.

Run that rod up and down the bore two or three passes and the bore will be spotless and shiny. It's the only way I clean shotgun bores other than .410 and if someone would make one for it I'd use it there as well. For those who just absolutely have to pollute their bores with oil they even come with a little thing to attach to run down the bore with oil afterward.

[Swampman]

I use WD-40 all the time as a cleaner and it works well for me.  I follow it up with Break Free CLP.  Of course leaving them dirty for 2-3 years at a time doesn't really hurt anything or at least it hasn't so far.

[charles p]

For use in step one of a cleaning process as you have described, it shouldn't be a problem.  I do not like to leave WD-40 on a metal surface because it evaporates and leaves a varnish that peels away.  I don't think it offers any residual protection once the volitile ingredients have evaporated.  WD-40 is designed to remove moisture.  It provides short term lubricating properties but there are better lubricants for longterm use.

I like WD-40 for fishing reels because they are used around water.

[s.w.ecology]

It works but there is a far quicker, easier and cleaner way to deal with it. Hoppe's and I think Tyvek and others make a rod with a fuzzy look to it just for cleaning shotgun barrels. I have both 12 and 20 gauge versions and I can barely force the 20 down 28 barrels as well.

Run that rod up and down the bore two or three passes and the bore will be spotless and shiny. It's the only way I clean shotgun bores other than .410 and if someone would make one for it I'd use it there as well. For those who just absolutely have to pollute their bores with oil they even come with a little thing to attach to run down the bore with oil afterward.

Thanks, Greybeard.  I have been thinking about getting a Tico tool to use, and stopped on my way home today to pick one up.  Why do you feel that putting oil down a bore is polluting it?  I have always been taught to keep a light coat in there for rust prevention.

[Graybeard]

Unless you live in a seriously wet area it's just not needed. The humidity here in Bama where I live is above 90% more than it's below and I've yet to get rust inside a shotgun barrel. Just keep it clean with that Tico rod and you'll likely need nothing else.

I suppose if you plan to store it a year or two without looking at it then some preservative might be a good idea but ya do that whey bother having the thing to begin with. They are made so shoot. 

I've not put oil in the bore of a shotgun in well over 20 years likely a lot longer.

[Rock Home Isle]

Hi.  Sometimes after fun at the trap range I have bad fouling in the bores of my 12 gauges.  I would like to use WD-40 as a fouling remover, prior to applying Hoppe's and then the final coat of bore/gun oil.  The WD-40 has been recommended by a couple of friends for this, and it is cheap and plentiful at the hardware store (I am a little far from the nearest gun/sporting goods store).  Does anyone use it as a cleaner, and how well does it work?

I have used WD40 many times over the years. It works great if you shoot the gun regularly. But if the firearm is going to be stored for any length of time the WD40 tends to form a hardened deposit in the bottom of the barrel, depending how the gun was stored. I have had this heppen several times with guns that I rarely shoot, so I use other methods of cleaning my firearms.

Snapping a few caps should clear this out in mots instances. I did have a .54 calibre that I rarely shoot and the blockage was tedious but accomplished by pulling the nipple and dribbling powder then popping a cap. For a flinter it can get a little more involved.

[Rock Home Isle]

For use in step one of a cleaning process as you have described, it shouldn't be a problem.  I do not like to leave WD-40 on a metal surface because it evaporates and leaves a varnish that peels away.  I don't think it offers any residual protection once the volitile ingredients have evaporated.  WD-40 is designed to remove moisture.  It provides short term lubricating properties but there are better lubricants for longterm use.

I like WD-40 for fishing reels because they are used around water.

Very nicely stated. 

[SHOOTALL]

Had a gunsmith tell me and saw a print out in a Brownells cat. back in the 80's that stated other than to stop the blueing process WD-40 should not be used on gun metal. It effects it in some way . Also it is a penetrating oil and can damage ammo. Maybe someone who has old cat.s may have the print out . I find #1 fuel oil will clean out most gunk at a good price . Put it in a pump spray bottle and blast ot crud . Kroil Oil will take care of anything #1 FO won't