Do you really need an over powder wad?

[Ironwood]

I have an 1858 Remington Texas revolver made by Pietta.  Pietta suggest 12-15 grains of FFFG.  It seems like seating the ball snug onto the powder is going to leave some space between the ball and the end of the cylinder.  For just plinking do you need an over the powder wad?  Is there any harm in leaving a space of more than the .040" from the ball to the end of the clyinder as suggested by Pietta?         

[kitchawan kid]

Had the same problem with a Ruger old army,with light loads the ram rod would on push the ball all the way down on the powder,a no no,what I did was to add some corn meal on top of the powder,it not only help that problem,but smelled great too.

[.50cal]

air  space  between  the  ball  and  the  powder  is  BAD you  want  the  ball  on  the  powder  or  wad  then  ball onto the  powder.  the  gap  between  the  ball  and  the  end  of  the  cyl  is  nothing  to  worry  about,  the  ball  is  sized  when  loaded  and  used  the  cyl  as  a  smooth  bore  barrel  till  it  hits  the  riflings.  like  shooting  .38sp  in  a  .357  or  .44sp  in  a  .44  mag.  You  should  either put  a  wad  under  the  ball  or  over  the  ball  or  something  like  borebutter/crisco  on  top  to  reduce  the  chance  of a chain fire.  my  opinion  only.                   

[Ironwood]

Kitchawan Kid... I'll take some cornmeal along with me to the range.    I have a few felt wads but only a few.

.50cal.. Yes I know about the air space.  I've been shooting traditional muzzleloader rifles for several years.   Also shoot .44 Specials in my .44 Mag.  This is just my first C&B revolver.  I was told I probably should stick with the light loads due to the Texas having a brass frame. 

In another muzzleloading forum there was quite a discussion about chain fire in C&B revolvers.  Some thought the main cause of chain fire was loose or lost caps rather than from cylinder blow by.   

[kitchawan kid]

I too have heard that chain fire was because of caps coming off,it would seem a possiblty,more then from the front of the cylinder.

[bedbugbilly]

kitchawan kid - just curious how you carry and dispense the cornmeal?  I would imagine it has to be a fairly consistant measurement.  Do you carry it in a separate flask?  I have a very small Colt style flask for a pocket pistol with a 12 grain spout.  I don't have any cornmeal handy but was just wondering if it would work in that flask and if the 12 grain spout would dispense enough of the cornmeal - too much?  For those that use the cornmeal between the powder and ball, would love to hear how you carry it, measure it out, dispense it, etc.  Many thanks!   

[.50cal]

My chain fire happened because of the cyl bore not being round and not shaving a ring off all the way around. Once the cyl was bored out to .451 and used .454 balls the problem went away. It  can happen either way so try to prevent both... with so many new people starting out and posting I thought I would mention the air space beeing bad, not meaning that you were new to this so if I offended I'M SORRY....

[stubshaft]

I now have an extended rammer for my ROA so I can seat bullets right down on the powder.  I have use cornmeal as a filler and carried it in a margarine tub and used a Lee dipper to measure it out. 

[Ironwood]

Stubshaft, the Lee dipper sounds good.  I don't have any of the Lee dippers.  It might take a little trial and error but I'm sure I can rig up something with a cartridge case as a dipper.

.50 cal, I'm sorry if I didn't make my opening post clear.  I thought I made it clear I knew I had to seat the ball snug on the powder.  I'll make sure I have a complete ring of shaved off lead when I seat the ball.  Thanks for sharing that info.   

[kitchawan kid]

I carry the corn meal in a small pill contaner and use a .38 spc. case with a wire soldered on it.works ok.

[gcrank1]

You can use Cream of Wheat or cornmeal, etc. and your little flask might just come out right if you juggle the load and the filler to get the ball seating just below flush with the cylinder mouth. It would be very convienent compared to the dipper (Ive done both). Another ploy is to take a big cartridge case, fill it with the filler material and cork it. With a little practice you can dispense the right amount.
I agree that if the ball is the right size to shave even a small ring of lead when seating that the chamber mouth is effectively sealed. Loose caps popping off at the rear allow more chambers to fire. The grease over the ball provides the needed lube to keep the fouling soft, and even with it it is handy to have a short cleaning rod, or pull through, and some damp patches for between cylinders full.
FWIW, I have the same gun and use 20gr.V of 2 or 3F in mine.

[OLDPUPPYMAX]

I've never had or heard of a problem caused by the ball sitting well down from the mouth of the chamber. With a 20 grain load, a wad and .451 ball in my .44 Navy I STILL have quite a distance between the ball and the chamber mouth. To me, the only reason for cornmeal would be to see if a ball level with the chamber opening would help accuracy. Can't hurt to try it.

[gcrank1]

I experimented along those lines years ago. Found how much 3F I needed to seat with a little even compression from the loading ram at almost full down. I like goo on top of the ball and that became the problem since the ball was so deep, hard to get a good even smear across the chamber mouth of a consistant amount.
Accuracy, at least in my hand, was good enough, as I recall, as good as the ball up top.
I like the way the COW or CM scours out the bore shot to shot so Ive gone back to that. I use a small flask now with small spout, easy to dispense (just like with powder).
FWIW, I run my caps through a number drill plate with a finishing nail to even up the skirts and the fit on the nipples. There is quite a variation out of the tin.

[flmason]

I experimented along those lines years ago. Found how much 3F I needed to seat with a little even compression from the loading ram at almost full down. I like goo on top of the ball and that became the problem since the ball was so deep, hard to get a good even smear across the chamber mouth of a consistant amount.
Accuracy, at least in my hand, was good enough, as I recall, as good as the ball up top.
I like the way the COW or CM scours out the bore shot to shot so Ive gone back to that. I use a small flask now with small spout, easy to dispense (just like with powder).
FWIW, I run my caps through a number drill plate with a finishing nail to even up the skirts and the fit on the nipples. There is quite a variation out of the tin.

Had a CVA '61 Navy that I used to shoot with 20 gr. of Pyrodex P... I used to put my lub in ketchup squeeze bottle. The sort with a long conical spout and a cylindrical body... that let me get down near the ball and cover it up without too much effort. Was pretty convenient.

What's a number drill plate?