Been saying it for years. I've had a few doubters and detractors but overall those who tried the lube now known as "Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant" have had good results.
But ONLY if they stick to the original ingredients:
1 part canning paraffin
1 part mutton tallow
1/2 part beeswax
All measurements are by weight, not volume.
I still urge the use of real felt, made from wool, and very stiff felt at that. Old hats are one source. A more convenient source is Durofelt, which sells all-wool felt in various thicknesses for punching out your own wads.
Just last weekend, I was trying out a reproduction Remington .36 and using greased wads 1/4 inch thick to take up room in the chamber. I was using only 19 grains of Goex FFFG powder, with a .380 inch ball. I could have used corn meal, but the wad worked well. And the extra Gatofeo No. 1 lubricant it carried surely didn't hurt.
Normally, I use wads of 1/8 inch thick under the ball with larger powder charges. Either thickness carries more than enough lubricant to do the job.
I avoid the limp, hobby shop felt because it's largely polyester, which is plastic. Years ago I swore off polyester felt when I began noticing tiny lumps of melted plastic in the bore, after cleaning. Real wool doesn't melt and leave residue.
Through the years, I've learned to charge the chamber, then thumb a greased felt wad into the chamber just below flush. After charging each chamber, I immediately thumb in the felt wad. Then, I go back and fully seat the wad firmly -- but not hard -- on the powder charge.
After this, the ball follows. This system allows me to better gauge how much pressure I'm applying. Consistent seating pressure aids accuracy. For best consistency, use a loading stand that holds your revolver upright.