Author Topic: Revolver Barrel  (Read 452 times)

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Offline Ebjonnes

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Revolver Barrel
« on: July 21, 2010, 06:20:10 AM »
   Hello,    I am changeing the barrel on a S@W mod.10. Do any of you guys know how to regulate the barrel rotation wise, so it tightens up in line with the frame? Thanks for any advise

Offline gunnut69

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Re: Revolver Barrel
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2010, 07:03:35 AM »
The shoulder is shaved with the barrel between centers in a lathe until it nearly turns in. It is then torqued into position. Don't get too heavy handed or damage may result. Snug is all that's really needed. If rebarreling a newer piece a pin will need to be drilled and inserted to retain the barrel. Older pistols will already have a hole for the pin and the barrel shank will be all that's needed to be drilled. Remember the threads in the receiver and on the barrel of newer S&W's don't quite match. The crush fit thus created is what eliminates the need for a pin. That is destroyed(equalized) by the crush it created. The barrel cylinder gap is set by either careful measurement and lathe turning or by using a tool that center in the bore and is turned by a rod thru the bore. It creates a flat for the cylinder to turn against and the throat in the barrel that helps funnel the bullet down the bore. These tools may be available from other sources but mine came from Brownells.. There are several throat angles available and some debate as to the best..
gunnut69--
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Offline Ebjonnes

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Re: Revolver Barrel
« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2010, 07:12:50 AM »
  Gunnut 69, Thanks for the advise. A bell rung when you mentioned the crush fit threads of the newer S@W,so I made up some copper washer/gaskets.A couple of test fits and ended up with a crush fit and proper timing.It may not be the proper method ,but it seems mechanicaly sound.Thanks again.

Offline Frank46

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Re: Revolver Barrel
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2010, 07:23:02 PM »
Make sure you have the proper action wrench for the model 10 when taking off and installing bbls. Some folks did it by clamping the bbl and sliding a chunk of oak where the cylinder is located. Good way to crack the frame right where the threads are. Then it gets expensive. Frank