NoGo & Field Gage on a 1915 Swede

[Davemuzz]

I have a 1915 Gustaf Swede in 6.5mm that I shoot once a week in a CMP shoot. I shoot my own handload and it's a Hornady 129gr. SST over the minimum charge of RL-22.

I've yet to split a neck or crack a piece of brass because of the minimal loads that I shoot.

Now....when I bought this Mil-slurp about 5 years ago, I checked it with Go\NoGo gage's. The bolt would close on the NoGo gage, but it was a bit tight. And today, when I check it, it's still the same. It will close a bit tight on the NoGo.

Now, I think the field gage is just a bit longer than the NoGo. (Please correct me if I'm wrong on that). And I believe if the bolt will close on the field gage....then I've got to quit shooting and have something done with this rifle.

Now...please tell me if what I've stated is right or wrong....and then, if my bolt does close on a field gage....are there any options besides a new barrel? (I would hate to swap out the original barrel on this gun!)

Thanks.

Dave

[gunnut69]

It would NOT require a new barrel. The old barrel could be cut back by one thread, the shoulder set back a similar amount and the headspace adjusted to NOT close on the 'no go' guage and all would be well again. The military barrel with its straight sides would just be a tiny bit shorter and there would be a bit more expansion room in front of the steps.. Also the rear sight would need resetting after the barrel shank has been shortened. You are correct in your explanation of the 'field' guage. It is longer than a nogo and indicates the rifle should be removed from service.. If handloading one can set the sizer to just kiss the shoulder and correct a slightly long chamber.. If the nogo is tight the rifle is usually OK.

[Davemuzz]

Thanks GN69!  I posted this question here because I knew I could count on you to give me the "skinny" no B-S answer to my question.

I have this "drool" affair with this Swede (since I never have had a drool affair with a real Swede!  ) since I bought it. It's amazingly accurate for a gun that was built in 1915 (not that a lot of guns built then or even before then are not amazingly accurate) and I just love to reload and shoot this old gun. It has many bangs and bumps on the stock and I just wish those could talk!!

But, instead of using a piece of scotch tape on the end of the NoGo, I think on my next Big-Brown-Truck order, I'm going to go ahead and just order the Field gage so I have it. Then I can keep track of any barrel erosion.

Thanks for your response! I for sure appreciate it! You are the best!!

Dave

[rebel49]

You would be setting the barrel back exactly .0833", or cutting the shoulder and rear face of the barrel that much. This would index the sights back into the right orientation that they are at present. By setting the barrel back you have to recut the chamber much like a short chambered barrel and set it to the "Go" gage. With the exception of barrel wear you would have a new chamber and worn barrel. But if it shoots well what the heck. If this is the only Swede you have just do what Gunnut69 said and adjust your die and don't swap cases with other rifles.
Rebel49

[Davemuzz]

Rebel,

Actually, I have this old military in the 6.5, along with a modern action Savage that I wrenched together in 6.5 with a Shilen barrel.

It's not difficult to keep the brass separate as I shoot only Lapua brass from my Savage. If I shoot RP from it, I may get 3 rounds at most. My Savage will push a Berger 140gr. a tad above 2800fps with no pressure signs, and as long as I use quality components, I will get about 10 to 12 reloads from the brass before it's time to "retire" it.

And since I load Lapua brass for the Savage, and either Berger or Barnes bullets, it's easy to keep track of the bullets as the Hornady's all have the red rubber tip on 'em!!

Also, I have a Redding body die with two "hash marks" on it. One for the military....and one for the Savage.

You raise all valid points and I thank you for pointing that out. I just wanted to post this and let any reader know it's possible to keep it separate. I think it would get a lot more difficult though....if you were loading the same bullets, or if the bullets looked alike.

DAve

[wtroger]

If you get any bolt resistance on a no-go then you are good to go. I wouldn't worry about the old girl just keep on shootin & enjoying her.

[Rangr44]

Keep in mind that all the various headspace gauges are meant to adjudge the ability of a barrel/chamber/bolt to chamber/fire FACTORY/ARSENAL commercial ammunition, and NOT necessarily handloads.

IMO, you won't have to fool with setting the barrel back, etc - as long as you continue to handload for the chambering, and NEVER use factory/milsurp 6.5x55  ammo in it once the chamber specs start to get out-of-sync.

The reason is that, by setting the shoulder a tad further forward to take up the slack, you're essentially creating/shooting your own 6.5x55 wildcat - say the "Davemuzz 6.5x55.15"    - just keep tabs on it, the same as any other wildcat cartridge.

If the chamber got out of specs, though, I also think it would be a good idea to label the gun in some way, incase it ever got out of your possession/supervision.

.

[Davemuzz]

The reason is that, by setting the shoulder a tad further forward to take up the slack, you're essentially creating/shooting your own 6.5x55 wildcat - say the "Davemuzz 6.5x55.15"    - just keep tabs on it, the same as any other wildcat cartridge.

Oh Man.....Rangr44.....Do you know how long it's gonna take me to stamp "Davemuzz 6.5x55.15" on each piece of brass that I load for my Mil-Slurp?  ....Plus....I gotta grind out each letter for those teeny tiny little metal stamps to make the brass imprints!!!

Dave

[Rangr44]

       


Seriously, though - The handloads with the somewhat longer head-to-shoulder lendth won't chamber in a serviceable 6.5x55, so I would make a small brass ID tag (properly marked) for the TG and call it CYA.  

.

[Davemuzz]

10-4  That's a good idea. And one that I will do. Better safe.....(which is the whole reason of my post!!) than sorry!

Thanks again!!

Dave

[bill439]

rangr44 has given you good advise.  Headspace can be adjusted by just neck-sizing the fired case.  this should give you perfect headspace.  If the chamber is not true, then size only enough to still have a slight feel when closing the bolt this will also produce perfect headspace.  I had a 1909 arge with the same problem, I just fire-formed cases with a cast bullet load then neck-sized and from then on I never moved the sholder back.  wishing you luck, bill439

[Davemuzz]

FWIW.....On my last "BBT" order, I threw in a field gauge for the 6.5 Swede. I just got the gauge a few days ago and threw it in my 1915 Gustaf Mauser. Well, my bolt won't close at all on the field gauge. Not even close to closing....not even a slight mushy give!!

So....that at least, is a good thing! I figure I should be shootin these mild loads for quite a few years before I have to think about taking the barreled action up to my local military gun specialist....E.R. Shaw. They are only 40 minutes away from me.

Again.....thanks for all your help.

Dave