Author Topic: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod  (Read 1439 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline 191701

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« on: July 23, 2010, 01:04:37 PM »
Found some 1 3/4" id 2 1/2" od chrome plated cylinder rod.   Seamless. Just wondering what you guys would do with it, if anything.  I have about 4'.  Thanks

Offline dan610324

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2413
  • Gender: Male
  • bronze cannons and copper stills ;-))
    • dont have
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2010, 03:35:06 PM »
gb mortar or howie
Dan Pettersson
a swedish cannon maniac
interested in early bronze guns

better safe than sorry

Offline Terry C.

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1215
  • Gender: Male
  • I see what you did there...
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2010, 03:52:21 PM »
Yes, something with a machined breech plug that incorporates a powder chamber.

GB howitzer sounds like a good idea. You wouldn't want it too long, about eight calibers of bore, plus the chamber.

4' should make two.

Offline Cat Whisperer

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7493
  • Gender: Male
  • Pulaski Coehorn Works
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2010, 03:54:28 PM »
Being chromed it's likely VERY smooth.

Being 1.75" ID that's a bit big for golf-balls, but if patched loosely (thin patch) that has potential.  
I would not use a patch in just any cannon/mortar - ONLY if it is right-much smooth and consistant in diameter.

With 4' of it you have a number of options.  You could even make a mortar BATTERY.

Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
Cat Whisperer
Chief of Smoke, Pulaski Coehorn Works & Winery
U.S.Army Retired
N 37.05224  W 80.78133 (front door +/- 15 feet)

Offline Double D

  • Trade Count: (3)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 12607
  • SAMCC cannon by Brooks-USA
    • South African Miniature Cannon Club
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #4 on: July 23, 2010, 04:30:09 PM »
Patched, .035 thickness? 

Offline 191701

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2010, 05:19:35 PM »
Its chrome on the outside not the inside. Would there be anything wrong with making it long?  Maybe a powder chamber plug and a sleeve over the outside to cover the chamber area for extra strength.   

Offline Double D

  • Trade Count: (3)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 12607
  • SAMCC cannon by Brooks-USA
    • South African Miniature Cannon Club
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2010, 05:54:28 PM »
I think we had a discussion on those cylinders a few weeks back and decide they were DOM welded seam.  I'm not sure if we figured out the type of steel.  If I remember right the consensus on these cylinder was to pass...mainly because they are made of unknownium.

Offline 191701

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2010, 11:20:25 AM »
The id measures +- .001"   So if there is a weld seam there will be micro pits in the seam which will corrode over time.  Is this the main reason not to use it or is it strength also.  Thanks

Offline Cat Whisperer

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7493
  • Gender: Male
  • Pulaski Coehorn Works
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2010, 11:26:25 AM »
The id measures +- .001"   So if there is a weld seam there will be micro pits in the seam which will corrode over time.  Is this the main reason not to use it or is it strength also.  Thanks

I count two reasons.  One is the porosity. Two is the material.  It likely was designed for the strength needed as part of something hydraulic.  The 'strength' is likely to be there, but it also is likely to be much harder (that adds to the strength) than what one would want for a cannon.  A cannon must be able with withstand cracking - hence the mild steels (1018 and others) work so well.  The harder the material is the stronger (generally) and the greater the likelyhood of cracking under the repeated firings.
Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
Cat Whisperer
Chief of Smoke, Pulaski Coehorn Works & Winery
U.S.Army Retired
N 37.05224  W 80.78133 (front door +/- 15 feet)

Offline armorer77

  • GBO Sponsor
  • Trade Count: (8)
  • A Real Regular
  • ****
  • Posts: 541
  • Gender: Male
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #9 on: July 25, 2010, 11:35:18 AM »
While , I haven't worked with hydraulic tube rams , my experience with the solid rods has been nothing but good . Armorer77

Offline Terry C.

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1215
  • Gender: Male
  • I see what you did there...
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #10 on: July 25, 2010, 12:29:10 PM »
Here are a few thoughts based on my experience building and maintaining hydraulic equipment.

Is it in fact a hollow ram and not a barrel? This makes a big difference.

Seamed tubing is for barrels, rams are generally made solid because of the steels used. Hollow rams are a tradeoff between strength and weight. A hollow ram would almost certainly not be made of a seamed tubing, or a brittle alloy, the result could be disastrous.

Rams are generally not made from overly hard alloys, they don't well work in these applications for much the same reasons given for why they are less suitable for cannons. Rams are generally made of tough steels that will 'give' under pressure rather than break. Rams are subjected to extreme stress and physical abuse. A ram that bends instead of breaking can be the difference between life and death for a crewman in harm's way.

Rams need to be weldable. A ram has to have some sort of attachment point, or it's pretty much uselss. And these wear out or get damaged and have to be replaced. Usually this is done in adverse conditions with the most basic of setups. It has to take the weld well and be strong and safe enough to resume operation.


Just my thoughts. Most of the equipment I deal with is large and dangerous, so I am a bit opinionated.

YMMV

Offline Cat Whisperer

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 7493
  • Gender: Male
  • Pulaski Coehorn Works
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #11 on: July 25, 2010, 12:35:03 PM »
Good words of experience.   ;D
Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
Cat Whisperer
Chief of Smoke, Pulaski Coehorn Works & Winery
U.S.Army Retired
N 37.05224  W 80.78133 (front door +/- 15 feet)

Offline 191701

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2010, 01:54:16 PM »
So if I decide to make a golf ball howie out of it.  What are my options?  Plug the end with a pressed and welded plug?  Weld on the end  several inches away from chamber.  threaded plug? Sleeve the outside chamber area also?  Weld trunions to the outside sleeve?  Just throwing some ideas out. Thanks again.

Offline dan610324

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2413
  • Gender: Male
  • bronze cannons and copper stills ;-))
    • dont have
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #13 on: July 26, 2010, 02:00:08 PM »
heat shrink and weld

NOT PRESS AND WELD
Dan Pettersson
a swedish cannon maniac
interested in early bronze guns

better safe than sorry

Offline rludwig

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 6
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #14 on: August 02, 2010, 08:30:00 AM »
I'm still sort of a newbie. Still working on my first cannon. I don't quite understand the difference between press fit and shrink fit. It seems to me that both should end up with the sleeve slightly compressing the plug.

Offline dan610324

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2413
  • Gender: Male
  • bronze cannons and copper stills ;-))
    • dont have
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #15 on: August 02, 2010, 08:38:28 AM »
a correctly made shrink fit compress the plug harder and is stronger
Dan Pettersson
a swedish cannon maniac
interested in early bronze guns

better safe than sorry

Offline GGaskill

  • Moderator
  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5668
  • Gender: Male
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #16 on: August 02, 2010, 04:05:18 PM »
The difference between press fit and shrink fit is this:  a press fit forces an undersize sleeve over an oversize shaft while a shrink fit relies on heating the sleeve to expand it larger than the (sometimes cooled) shaft so it simply slides on without any resistance.  Now it has to be done quickly as once the sleeve contacts the shaft it starts cooling off and shrinking and quickly the project can become a force fit.  But the intent is that the hole in the sleeve is larger than the shaft for the time it takes to position it on the shaft.  That is why the difference in diameters is so critical.
GG
“If you're not a liberal at 20, you have no heart; if you're not a conservative at 40, you have no brain.”
--Winston Churchill

Offline 191701

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Member
  • *
  • Posts: 25
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #17 on: October 09, 2010, 03:14:19 PM »
I'm back and thinking about this again. What about a threaded breach plug?   Maybe a 1 7/8" 16 threaded plug. 3-4 inches long.  Maybe a 5/8" powder chamber. The plug could be removed and cleaned. Could I still get some distance out of it?

Offline KABAR2

  • Trade Count: (1)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2830
Re: 1 3/4" id cylinder rod
« Reply #18 on: October 09, 2010, 09:32:45 PM »
Here are a few thoughts based on my experience building and maintaining hydraulic equipment.

Is it in fact a hollow ram and not a barrel? This makes a big difference.

Seamed tubing is for barrels, rams are generally made solid because of the steels used. Hollow rams are a tradeoff between strength and weight. A hollow ram would almost certainly not be made of a seamed tubing, or a brittle alloy, the result could be disastrous.

Rams are generally not made from overly hard alloys, they don't well work in these applications for much the same reasons given for why they are less suitable for cannons. Rams are generally made of tough steels that will 'give' under pressure rather than break. Rams are subjected to extreme stress and physical abuse. A ram that bends instead of breaking can be the difference between life and death for a crewman in harm's way.

Rams need to be weldable. A ram has to have some sort of attachment point, or it's pretty much uselss. And these wear out or get damaged and have to be replaced. Usually this is done in adverse conditions with the most basic of setups. It has to take the weld well and be strong and safe enough to resume operation.


Just my thoughts. Most of the equipment I deal with is large and dangerous, so I am a bit opinionated.

YMMV


I have to agree with Terry,

I have a sick 14 year old 30 ton Die Press,  the platen is held onto the ram by being bolted to a collar, the collar is held to the ram with 4 Allen bolts up inside the tube, the Allen Bolts are harder then the ram, evidence of this is the bolts wore the threads out in the ram and the bolts would fall out even with locktite causing the platen and collar to drop to the table unexpectedly (read dangerous) as the problem was becoming chronic I was forced to take the ram out for repair it seems the last person who put it back together when I was off neglected to tell me two of the Allen bolts sheared off. after removal it was drilled and tapped for larger bolts & to keep them from backing out I drilled holes through the heads of the bolts and wired them together to keep them from turning..... mind you this is done inside a pipe (collar) about 6 to 7 inches ID  10" up inside it and blind....... SO FAR SO GOOD!....  
Mr president I do not cling to either my gun or my Bible.... my gun is holstered on my side so I may carry my Bible and quote from it!

Sed tamen sal petrae LURO VOPO CAN UTRIET sulphuris; et sic facies tonituum et coruscationem si scias artficium