BUILDING AN AR

[williamlayton]

I really don't want to end up with three or four AR's.
I don't understand the first thing about choosing uppers and lowers.
I want a target AR--capable of range.
I think I want it in .223.
What are the questions I should be asking?
What is a good understanding of this build project?
Where do I begin and what am I looking for as a good end results?
Blessings

[jmayton]

Do you want to do the entire build yourself (buy stripped upper and lower and install everything) or just build one, usually the lower, and then buy a built upper to go on it?  Where and what you buy depends a lot on how much work you want to do. 

That being said, and I know some AR afficianados will jump on me for this, a friend of mine built a tack-driver out of a Model 1 kit.  I'm not sure what lower he used, but the gun is basically all Model 1 (www.model1sales.com).

Since you're talking target AR, as long as you get a good barrel and trigger, most anything will work.

[williamlayton]

Now that is good information.
It kinda followed what I thought, but, I have read much---maybe to much--and the opinions  were so varied and, honestly, confusing I was left in a quandry.
Naturally I would like to be into the project for as little $'s as possible and still have a decent target gun.
At 70 there are limitations to my --or whats left of--my skills.
I am not opposed to a purchaseing a package.
I like what I read of Rock River.
I just want a weapon that is sturdy and dependable (dependable includes accurate).
Blessings   

[Kal52]

I got the stripped lower, easy to put it together for the most part, dont loose the detents in the carpet, makes it harder 
the drop in kits make this much easier.

I got the upper kit from model one, pretty happy with it, got the stocks and some other parts as well, you can customize the upper before you buy it and basically just have to slap it together and your good to go.

Ultimately I found an Olympic K16 that was pretty much what i really wanted, and bought that, very reasonably priced, and very accurate and reliable, love it. not much more than what it cost to build mine.  so id look around at some different brands and compare build cost vs assembled, may not be too far apart depending on brand name.  the warranty may be worth the extra money.

I would go out and handle alot of them, it seems what you think you want at the start is not what you end up needing. but the good thing is its pretty easy to change anything on this platform.

Good luck

Dave

[Old Syko]

If you don't already have the necessary tools or access to them, and a supply of small parts it isn't worth the effort to build yourself, especially if you only want one gun.  Building is more for someone who intends to do a number of projects.  As far as what to expect, it's just like anything else.  Don't expect record setting performance from a $500 piece when thousands may have to be spent to get to that goal.

Most manufacturers offer models that will give decent performance nowadays and most are comparably priced.  With that being said, as you've already learned, RRA has an excellent reputation and it is well earned.  It would be hard to go wrong with one of their LRT or varmint models and will save the headache of building and all for the same or less money.

[243dave]

If you build one as a target gun plan on spending the money on a good trigger.  The basic AR trigger won't let you shoot good groups.  I put together a double-star kit on a rock river receiver and its a shooter.  Puttin your own together and shooting half inch groups for 5 shots is rewarding.  Mine has a jewell 2-stage trigger, a 20 inch bull barrel with a float tube and topped with a nikon monach.  If I had to do it over again I'd go with a lighter barrel.  The bull-barrel is great for off the bench but sucks for anything else.  If you buy a kit buy one that already has the upper assembled, that way you won't have to buy any special tools.  Dave

[jmayton]

Upppers require special tools and proper torque spec to assemble.  Lowers just require the ability to drive in pins correctly.  If it were me (and I have access to the tools) I'd buy a complete upper assembled like I would want, a CMMG or BCM lower, and then assemble the lower and slap the upper on it and go shoot.  Like I said, Model 1 will sell you an assembled upper and lower parts kit for a great price.  Then all you have to do is find a stripped lower.

[Dixie Dude]

I bought a complete lower, a complete upper, and a complete bolt seperate.  The upper and the bolt were used.  Stay away from Olympic.  Their hole size to join upper and lowers are different.  DPMS, Bushmaster, and Colt all interchange.  Don't know about SW and Remington.  I do know that Remington is either made by DPMS or Bushmaster since they are all owned by the same company now.

Might be just as cheap now to buy a complete weapon. 

[Old Syko]

Upppers require special tools and proper torque spec to assemble.  Lowers just require the ability to drive in pins correctly.

Well kinda.  It just depends on your goal.  The first thing I do is to match fit the stripped lower and upper eliminating wobble and freeplay all around.  This eliminates the need for accu-wedges, eccentric pins and the like.  Everything adds up, so you have to set your own limits as to what you want and expect and how much time and money you're willing to invest.

243dave is certainly right about the Jewell triggers.  There are a lot of drop in triggers available but this is my choice also.

[Reverend Recoil]

By AR target rifle, do you mean a AR rifle for CMP service rifle competition?

[SHOOTALL]

William. I have just done as you wish to do. I larned a few things . I got a stripped lower. They can run fro $80.00 to $ 180.00 + . You are best served with a mil. spe. as most mil spec parts will fit. There are several types . no fence , partial fence , fenced and M-4 to name a few. Fenced or M-4 are good to build on unless you re enact and wish to match a speical era like VN or something. There are speical tool you can buy but they are not so expensive. The blocks for upper and lower are useful. Now the nice way is to get your lower and build it then order a complete upper. You can configure your gun as you wish. Look in Shot gun news , M&A is a good ad to see the different combo's aval. They will send you an upper complete and lower parts kit. You can upgrade parts as you wish . There are other outlets that do the same and there ads are there also. note I have not ordered from them but did use imfo to decide what I wanted. I have the advantage of a gun show in the area where several guys sell uppers and will build your lower while you watch at no extra charge if you buy the parts from them. The guy I use is Tony's Uppers and he is on line . He said M&A was his brother in law , small world. Anyway he put togather a 223 target gun sorta . It is a 20 inch bbl , M-4 lower Flip up sights and I added a scope. The sorta is the 4 position M-4 stock. It needs to be a solid M-2 IMHO to be a better target gun. That was the beauty now the moles and warts - sometimes these guns are rough and need breaking in and in some cases polishing. I know because mine did , sons did not. It is a work in progress that you do the picking of parts and decide when it shoots good enough.
 Anything that is M4 is current military parts for the M$ platform. M2 are the M16 type parts . With regard to recivers a M4 has bullet ramps cut in and a flat top . A M2 can be flat top but no ramps. Ramps only help. For target flat top is a must have. Bolts come chrome or not , best in your case to up grade to a target bolt. BBL's chrome lined , not CL or SS . your case SS or not cromed might be best. Hand gard for target would be free floated , I like a full length round alum. with four3 inch  rails on the end. Gas blocks can be with a standard M2 fixed sight , folding sight , with a  rail or no sight or rail. Mine has a folding sight. Mine also has a standard flas supp. . Also my gas block has a sling stud. Some do not and with a bottom rail you can attach one. Ok mine works now after polishing the bolt , carrier and chamber. It is heavy but I wanted it that way as it will shoot ground hogs and tagets way more than bug out ( I hope) . I am now in the process of getting a 6.8spc upper to work. The gas port in the bbl was to small and the chamber was rough. The upper had to go back for cleaning up. This is where a good supplier is important. You are getting mil. spec. parts and putting them togather some need attention . The first bbl. I had looked like a sewer pipe after cleaning and it was replaced . Note the bbl camr from a well respected bbl maker . The volume of production may allow a bad one to slip thru. and would get inspected on an assy line. When you build you are the inspector. So in the end after all you will have a rifle you put togather with help. You decided what parts went in you decided when it was the way you wanted it. You saved some money , you really do! I saw one like mine in the store for around $1300 and to date mine is under 850. Would I do it again ? You bet ! just need funds and to decide what cal.