Broken Shotgun Sight Stud

[Sault Ste. Marie]

Would any of you know how a mechanically-challenged guy might get the broken half of a sight stud out of a Stoeger 2000 barrel?  I was trying to remove the stock bead in order to replace it with a HiViz sight. And foolish me, I didn't apply heat before trying loosen the stud, apparently cemented in with lock-tite.  Thought the stud was loosening.  Instead it was the stud twisting just before breaking.  I was able to screw the sight back in with about a 3/4 turn to seat it.  The local gun smith, swamped right now with rifle work, told me it would be about a $35 job when he could get to it.  He said he might have to drill and tap a new hole if he can't get the bottom of the stud out.  HELP!  Any suggestions?

I'm not in any hurry and want the job done right.  Thanks ahead of time.

Steve

[John Traveler]

Sorry to hear about your broken sight stud problem.

I can think of no easy way to remove the stud except by heating first (with a hot air gun or torch) to break the thread sealant bond.  Locktite lets go at about 400 degrees.  With the supporting shoulder of the bead removed, there is nothing holding the stub in.  Try using a sharp scribe or pick to turn it out.

If that doesn't work, carefully center punch with a fine scribe, and use a drill press or supported Dremel tool to drill out 1/2 diameter of stud.  A jeweler's screwdriver tip should then turn it out.

If the bead is mounted on a sighting rib, you have to be extra carefull not to stress and break the rib.

If you are not mechanically inclined or have the right tools, it's well worth that $35 for the peace of mind in having your gunsmith remove it.

HTH
John

[Sault Ste. Marie]

John,

Thanks so much for the detailed advice.  I think I will pay the $35.  The peace of mind is worth it.  I can do some minor mechanical jobs, but nothing like this delicate procedure; too much room for goofing up, at least for me.  And I don't have the tools needed to do the job right, anyway.

Thanks again,
Steve

[gunnut69]

The easiest way is to heat and use a left hand twist drill.  Most times the shank will screw right out as the drill begins to cut.  A sharp center drill and a drill press are mandatory to get the drill started in the center of the shank's remains.  Lacking a left handed drill a center drill and the appropriate normal twist drill followed by a bit of heat and a homemade easy-out.  I make them from a piece of spring stock, pounded square.  Temper to a spring and gently drive into the hole in the sight shank, turn with a vise grips..  One must also be cautious of applying heat as it is possible to cause ribs to turn loose...

[gregdemars]

There is a tool available out there called an E-Z Out. It usually comes in a set off 4 or 5 different sizes in a pack for around $10.00. They're left handed spiral "pilots". You drill a hole in the center of the broken stud, tap in the corresponding size E-Z Out, and unscrew the broken stud. Advisable to heat the area before unscrewing of course. E-Z Outs are available through most hardware stores.

[gunnut69]

Unfortunately EZouts are not available in sizes this small, thus the 'home made' EZout...  The ezouts are also a bit brittle and the spring wire allows a bit of give before my homemade one breaks.  These sight screw are usually 3-56 up to about 6-48...

[Sault Ste. Marie]

Thanks for sharing your ideas.  I had thought of using a lefthand twist drill bit.  But since I don't have a drill press, I don't think I will attempt the job.  Too delicate, too much margin of error.  Too easy to mar the threads in the rib.  I think I will just wait until the local gunsmith is able to work me in.  I've already goofed up.  Don't want to make matters worse.  

Steve

[CJ]

Off topic a bit, but what do you think of your Stoeger? I have been toying with the idea of getting one. I read a few posts here on them that were positive, and wonder what your impression was. Reliability mainly.

[Sault Ste. Marie]

CJ,

Just purchased the Stoeger last May.  This Fall is its first season of use.  It held up well hunting ducks in less than hospitable weather.  It has even been dunked in the water resulting in no apparent harm.  The action is smooth and fast as well as being simple to dismantle and clean.  Nor has it ever jammed or failed to fire.  The somewhat stiff recoil pad could be softer, especially when shooting a box or more trap shells over just a tee shirt.  But I didn't notice the recoil when hunting.  I pulled off the pad and replaced it with a Pachmyer (sp?) boot.  I would guess that the heavier clothing also made a big difference in reducing felt recoil, perhaps reducing the impact more than the softer boot.

I have the camo 28" model.  I really like it.  From what I can guess without having patterned the gun, it throws a rather tight pattern.  

Paid a total of $483 for it at Jay's Sporting Goods here in N. Michigan.  Glad I bought it.  Retired my 20+ year old, sometimes malfunctioning Mossberg 500.  The Stoeger seems like a well made weapon.  I call it my poor man's Benelli.  For less than half the price of the latter, I believe that it is far more gun for the money.  I have no complaints.  Hope this helps.  I you wish more detailed info, let me know.

Steve

[CJ]

That seems to be the sentiment towards them. Keep hearing they {and the Bennellis} kick hard, I am more concerned with reliabilty. I like the idea of no gas system, and the half price compared to Bennelli. Thanks for the info.