Barrel fitting question

[Bamabinder]

I have read the barrel fitting instructions and have a new to the frame barrel that I am attempting to fit.  I believe that the barrel has already been fit to more than one frame because it seems very loose and there seems to be excess filing done on the locking lug.  I removed the ejector and filed the breech area to the point where it is close to flush with a cartridge.  The fit seemed even looser after doing that.

Anyway....with the barrel on the frame, there is a lot of movement.  There is a gap at the top of the barrel that goes away when I push the barrel towards the frame.  I shimmed the hinge pin with a bit of aluminum from a coke can which measured .004.  Still a lot of play so I tried taking that shim out and shimming the locking lug with the same thickness.  Still a lot of play.  I doubled the thickness and the latch button was way towards the bottom end of the travel but the play didn't go away completely.

Last thing I tried was shimming both the hinge pin and locking lug...most of the play was gone...maybe another thousandth or two on one or the other surface and the play SHOULD be gone...if I had to guess it would be the hinge pin needing more.

The problem is that since I have never done this before, I feel like I am guessing here.  I need suggestions on what I am doing here because based on the instructions on fitting the barrels, it is much easier to deal with metal that needs to be removed rather than metal that needs to be added.


So I guess I just need to shim both surfaces and slowly remove metal...is that what I should do??

Thanks,
Steve

[safari435]

First of all: I am new to the H&R/NEF  rifles but have picked up 4 in the last few days. 2 H&R Mod 158, a NEF Pardner and a NEF ultra hunter. Now I would like if I could interchange barrels ( as long as it is safe for the frame) but for example I would like to be able to put a shotgun barrel on my 158 which now as a 30-30 and so forth....
So I was thinking to machine all "barrels" do identical dim and make custom hinge pins for the receivers.... ( have machine-shop)

Don't know if it helps, but it seems to me making a custom pin is easier and nore permanent than shims. Then there is also the possibility of tig welding for built up.....

[cwlongshot]

Sounds to me like your hinge radius in your barrel is quite large. Just shim at the hinge. Shimming at the latch isn't going to work. While it is possible to add metal there via welding be sure you know what your doing as you will and could likely ruin the barrel.

I use real spring steel shim stock I acquired from a machinist friend of mine. Alum cans can work, but I prefer the steel shims personally. Sometimes I have to remove material at the sides of the barrel so the barrel will lay properly in the receiver. not common, but I have done it. I use dykem layout marker on the barrel and assemble the receiver and barrel. Then open and close the action to see where things are touching. CAREFULLY and SLOWLY remove only enough to stop the contact. Its easy to tell a properly, non binding action. It makes a solid, non spongy clunk when it closes. As for the latch, I like it to be most of the way thur its travel when fully closed.

Good luck,
 CW

[dpe.ahoy]

Guess that trumps my bubble gum and duct tape.   DP

[torpedoman]

feeler gauges make great shims and they are marked as to thickness

[mechanic]

feeler gauges make great shims and they are marked as to thickness

+1

Harbor freight...good source.

[Bamabinder]

I guess I should mention that the aluminum can was expediante and just used to figure out where the permanent shims would go.  I'll start by shimming the hing area and then shim the latch as needed.  Thanks for the suggestions.

Steve

[gcrank1]

Do I understand correctly that the barrel was loose (as you thought the hinge pin radius had been worked) AND you also filed on the breech end to flush up the cartridge head in the chamber? Not all brass is the same rim thickness, you dont want it 'too' flush.
If so, you made it even more loose. All is not lost though, it will give you more room to get a good thick shim in front.
I suggest no more metal removal until we have a chance to do some Q&A with you.

[cwlongshot]

Aluminum will and does work for many many people, I simply prefer steel for such things.

So how's it fit with just shimming the hinge area?

CW