casting from magnum shot

[MSM]

  Would casting bullets from magnum lead shot be a good way to get some lead with some alloy mixed in for casting rifle bullets? I am not concerned about trying to load to a specific velocity, I just want to get some lead that is ready without going to too much trouble. I figure the shot is about twice the cost of pure lead, but the shot might be usable with out adding anything else to it. Also, I might have a source of some cheap shot.
  Thanks,
   MSM

[jhalcott]

http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm
 this page might give you some ideas. I use air cooled wheel weights for a lot of MY rifle cast bullets. I have been able to get over 2200 fps with them and LLA lube or Felix lube. I have tried some Linotype in the past, It seems to hard for my uses. I also use a lot of 15-16 BHN alloy that is nearly the same as Lyman #2. This works very well in most of my guns. I do use gas checks on nearly every thing, too. Magnum shot has antimony in it but not much (if any) tin. Tin improves the flowability of the alloy.

[Lloyd Smale]

magnum shot is made in a few ways. Some is alloyed with antimony to get its hardness and some is water dropped (chilled) keep in mind that if its chilled shot when you reheat it and cast it that unless you water drop again your not going to get the hardness the original pellets had. Most chilled shot contains some antimony and arsenic. What its good for is adding to pure lead or another lead alloy that is low in these things. Pure lead alone doesnt hardnen when water dropped. Add a bit of shot to it to get just a little arsenic or antimony and then it will harden when water dropped.

[MSM]

  Thanks for the tips and information. There is a lot for me to learn. It seems that mixing lead and bullet casting can be as simple or complex as you want to make it. I just bought some wheel weights, I'll try them out later today or tomorrow. I'll let you know how it works out.
  MSM

[Junior1942]

It's not quite as hard as wheelweight alloy.  It will work fine to ~1850 fps with gascheck and two coats of LLA.  At least my 300 lbs or so does.  It's too hard for muzzleloader or BPCR rifles.

[MSM]

  What is LLA? I have some of the Lee Liquid Alox. I am casting for a .45-70, with the Lee 500 grain round pointed bullet. I'll see what happens...
  MSM

[Junior1942]

  What is LLA? I have some of the Lee Liquid Alox. I am casting for a .45-70, with the Lee 500 grain round pointed bullet. I'll see what happens...
  MSM

LLA = Lee Liquid Alox.   I cast the exact same bullet for my H&R 45-70, and I use magnum shot because I have so much of it.  It works well, but if I had some pure lead it would work better.  That big ol' 500 gr bullet ate my pure lead supply in a hurry.

[Canuck Bob]

   I've turned to Magnum shot for my lead because of convenience and quality.  Magnum shot runs 5-6 % Antimony if made in the US.  The smaller shot sizes contain more antimony.  It also contains a fair amount of arsenic as it helps in promoting hardening and making the shot round.  It contains no tin as this hinders the roundness of shot.
   Chilled shot is 2-3% antimony and again no tin.  Alloyed with a bit of tin it would match wheel weights closely.  Foreign made shot is not on my shopping list  because it is an unknown commodity and not available in Canada easily. I then found some clean roofing lead, considered pure for our purposes, to alloy with.  My final cost was under $2/lb.  No scrounging and clean alloys to work with.  With 7000 grains per pound it is easy to calculate bullet costs.  3 1/2 cents for 120 grains and 9 cents for 300 grains without gas checks.
   Here is a link from Paco Kelly discussing lead shot for bullets.
http://www.leverguns.com/articles/paco/22hornet.htm   about half way down.

[MSM]

  Thanks Canuck. I think some magnum shot casting is definitely in my future. I bought 30 pounds of wheel weights the other day for $1.00 a pound. I melted them down and cast some up today. Most of the WW seemed to be off tractor trailers...which is good and bad. The good part is they are larger than car sized wheel wights so there were fewer steel clips to remove, but the bad part is they are absolutely filthy. It took quite a bit of fluxing and scooping to get the trash out.
  I am fairly new to this, so I was OK with with the 50% ratio of keeper bullets. I had some temperature issues, too cold at first, then too hot. I still have some questions though.
  The issue I most want solved is that one bullet, usually the second one I poured into the Lee two cavity mold wouldn't drop. The mold seemed to work better when the bullets were frosted, which I understand means they are too hot.
  The other issue was probably a technique issue, of small amounts of lead under the sprue plate and also between the blocks, which formed flashing on the bullet bases and the part lines.
  I prepped the mold as I understood the directions. Does this need to be done after every time the mold is used?

  Thanks,
   MSM     

[Lloyd Smale]

if your casting with lee molds they usually do require you to cast hot enough that your bullets will be frosted to get good results. As youve noticed though when you do thins the lead tends to smear on the top of the mold and spruce plate. Go here http://www.bullshop.gunloads.com/ and buy some bullshop spruce plate lube and use it as instructed and it will go long way toward preventing this and make your molds last much longer. I use it on all my molds both steal and aluminum. A bottle  will last most casters there lifetime.

[Canuck Bob]

I missed one crucial point in my post.  Everything I wrote is research and not real experience.  I did carefully search out info that would confirm the standard info spread on the internet.  I found nothing that conflicted with my thread.  Paco Kelly's credentials and time with the CBA was very reassuring.  Those guys do KNOW cast bullets at the competition level. 

My alloy calculations for the numbers I quoted was 50-50 shot, scrap lead, and some lead free solder.  96-3-1 ;lead,antimony,tin; which is pretty close to tin sweetened WWs.

The only reason I'm not casting is waiting on my PAL, Canadian Possession and Acquisition Licence, before spending any more money.  I had a great deal less grief carrying an FN battle rifle and the care and feeding of a Howitzer for my country.  The PAL application doesn't even ask if you have done military service. 

[MSM]

  Thanks for the lead Lloyd. I like the Bull Shop mentality.

  Canuck, is a PAL sort of an equivalent of the FFL in the States?

  MSM

[Canuck Bob]

A PAL is required by our federal govt. for an individual to own and purchase firearms.  The normal one allows the ownership of long guns except for many designs like an AR15.  A seperate licence allows the ownership of handguns and prohibited long guns.  The restrictions on these weapons are draconian.  Tightly controled carry privelages and range use only.  There is no field use or personal carry of handguns in Canada.  4" barrels and shorter are prohibited weapons and longer are restricted weapons. 

Any commercial activity is covered under other licences which I have no knowledge of.