Author Topic: Best gun grease? (Read 4410 times)

His lordship. · « **on:** December 19, 2010, 04:45:11 AM »

For years I used the military surplus red grease that came in those small plastic cylinders with the yellow tops. My supplier was a gun show regular in another state, I moved away and have run out of the stuff. I tried automobile bearing grease, the gray stuff, OK, but unsightly. Tried Hoppes gun grease, a little on the thin side. Once I run out I might try another brand, anyone have any suggestions of the thicker type to use that they really like? I now live in a warm climate so cold weather is not a problem.

Thanks.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #1 on:** December 19, 2010, 09:57:13 AM »

I use synthetic EP rated grease in my break open guns, like my DR or drilling. It's automotive grease, and big tube cost about $6.00, it will last just about forever as all it takes is a "light" film of grease...

When i asked my master gunsmith about this, he told me just to make sure it's an EP rated grease, and the synthetic stuff would be perfect. Also to replace it often, to keep it clean.

DM

RaySendero · « **Reply #2 on:** December 19, 2010, 12:24:49 PM »

Quote from: Chris D. on December 19, 2010, 04:45:11 AM

For years I used the military surplus red grease that came in those small plastic cylinders with the yellow tops. My supplier was a gun show regular in another state, I moved away and have run out of the stuff. I tried automobile bearing grease, the gray stuff, OK, but unsightly. Tried Hoppes gun grease, a little on the thin side. Once I run out I might try another brand, anyone have any suggestions of the thicker type to use that they really like? I now live in a warm climate so cold weather is not a problem.

Thanks.

I like this Militec-1 oil and grease:

http://www.militec1.com

ogree · « **Reply #3 on:** December 20, 2010, 01:15:52 AM »

I use Shooters Choice.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 28, 2010, 06:25:43 PM »

I vote for the automotive grease.. The stuff I use is an extended use grease containing moly. It stays put and is a sybthetic so it doesn't change much in the heat.. It only takes a tiny smear.. The graphite bearing stuff works too but it is a bunch messier..

mauser98us · « **Reply #5 on:** December 29, 2010, 03:30:44 PM »

Quote from: Chris D. on December 19, 2010, 04:45:11 AM

For years I used the military surplus red grease that came in those small plastic cylinders with the yellow tops. My supplier was a gun show regular in another state, I moved away and have run out of the stuff. I tried automobile bearing grease, the gray stuff, OK, but unsightly. Tried Hoppes gun grease, a little on the thin side. Once I run out I might try another brand, anyone have any suggestions of the thicker type to use that they really like? I now live in a warm climate so cold weather is not a problem.

Thanks.

That's good old fashioned Lubriplate. Still availible,and one of the best greases availible.

kid buckskin · « **Reply #6 on:** January 01, 2011, 03:42:02 PM »

I like rig for some things my fav is good old gun slick

michstew · « **Reply #7 on:** January 28, 2011, 09:38:03 AM »

Used quite a few, but the best in my book is GunSlick. michstew

kid buckskin · « **Reply #8 on:** January 28, 2011, 02:56:07 PM »

Here's something I've kickin around in the old tin can
We all know that any grease-oil that isent high temp become a semi licquid and attract dust powder res and the like hence the the trouble we go to to cleaning and oling, whould it make sends to use something that doesn't attract dust ? on the outher hand high temp lube doesn't get oily but doesn't flow the dust away from internal parts,its all to confusing lol

gunnut69 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 29, 2011, 08:48:57 AM »

It does make sense and I often use and reccomend graphite or such in areas that are exposed to a lot of grunge..i.e. 22 rimfire autoloaders. But in areas that receive a lot of pressure high presure lubes that stay put are needed and that's why the wheel bearing greases work so well.. The military has been using dry lubes a lot more now that the mid east's dusty conditions have caused so much trouble.. Graphite amd moly both work well with moly probably better due to its affinity to metal causing a natural tendance to adhere.. both are messy as all get out.. I like a moly powder carried in a volatile solvent carrier. Its homemade and tends to dettle out requiring a good shake before use and moly is toxic if ingested????still it works well and stays put pretty good..

kid buckskin · « **Reply #10 on:** January 29, 2011, 11:24:14 AM »

Well said. But what about lube that flows powder res from interals is it worthwhie?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #11 on:** January 29, 2011, 09:15:09 PM »

I've never seenor heard of any lube that would actually move powder residue out of the works.. Those I've seen generally turn powder residue into mush which eventually sets up like concrete. Dry lubes will prevent the problem with residues sticking inside the gun while providing the needed lubricity to avoid galling and other such problems..

Airsporter · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2011, 10:35:45 AM »

I use Tetra on all my semi-autos.

http://www.tetraproducts.com/product_view.asp?ID=1

dickttx · « **Reply #13 on:** January 31, 2011, 11:31:42 AM »

From all the comments, I guess you use what you can find.
I ran all over Fort Worth a couple of weeks ago looking for gun grease and could not find ANY. Finally ordered some from Natchez. Hope it gets here before my new Colt SS Rail Gun. I would hate to set here looking at for a few days waiting on grease.

mcwoodduck · « **Reply #14 on:** January 31, 2011, 12:13:57 PM »

I have a small tub of RIG.
4 to 5 ounces and I stick Q-Tips into the greese and apply it to what and where I need with the Q-tip. So far I shoot alot and have not gone through a tub yet.
It is pretty thick and works well where I use greese. A little thicker than Vasoline.
I put it on the front of hammers where bolt or slide hit it.
the springs inside of the Garand as well as all the berring surfaces in side it.
And on the slide rails of most of my autos.
I do use lithium greese on My Sig P220 sport at the bushing for the Comp. The powder gets baked on other wise and it takes scrapong tools to get it off. the lithium grease holds up to the heat better.
Most of my guns also get a coating of Boeshield T-9 first. It is a spray wax / oil and a dab of grease here and there is additional to that. I go through lots of T-9 over the years.
T-9 is a spray like WD-40 but was developed for the leading edges of air planes to keep the wings from icing. It holds up well to the heat if the guns as well as the wear. It leaves a nice clean shine to metal and wood. and spraying some on a clean rag and wiping down the gun and wood makes the gun look great.

kid buckskin · « **Reply #15 on:** February 01, 2011, 05:41:15 AM »

Where I live rig grease will turn to oil and atract dust but at least there something slick. That's why I use gun slick it stays in its org form and its real slick too

mcwoodduck · « **Reply #16 on:** February 01, 2011, 05:47:20 AM »

I used to live in the desert.
all greese and oil attracts dust and grit.
But I used the grees sparingly - Something the gun smith did not like-
Most often I would clean the gun before handing it to the smith to add a bead, recoil pad or repair a crack in a stock.
I would get noted tied on the trigger guard "Guns like grease and oil!"
I would then show him the guns I was shooting with the grease and oils in place but would still get the notes everytime I handed him a dry gun.

kid buckskin · « **Reply #17 on:** February 01, 2011, 02:40:25 PM »

Its so hard for me to leave my my hardware dry my ccw pistol gets sweated in it gets dry graphit and that little pistol gets very little attention but its always ready to go never had a malfunction yet even with tens of thousands threw the tube
now when I shoot blanks with my sa guns them buggers get dirty the olny lube that dose any good is gunslick and tutlewax

Huffmanite · « **Reply #18 on:** February 01, 2011, 05:08:18 PM »

Lubriplate Engine Assembly Grease with Graphite mixed in it is what I use.

slimjlm · « **Reply #19 on:** February 21, 2011, 04:56:29 AM »

I use Lubriplate 630-AA or Mobil SCH-100, they are aircraft grade greases, and I have some tubes left over. Bearing supply stores will have the best stuff around, Consolidated Bearing has an entire isle to decide from. Just pick a quality grease and keep it on the friction and pivot points and you'll be happy.

I like the graphite on 22's idea, gonna have to try that.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 21, 2011, 08:56:43 AM »

I suppose this is a good place to inject this but the Remington 740-742 rifles use a cam guide pin in a race to lock/unlock the bolt head from the barrel extension. The slot wears quickly if not properly lubed. By that I mean a high pressure lube(grease) thus the wheel bearing grease. Failure to properly lube these guides can wear the cam slot is very few rounds and parts for replacement are NOT available.. Remember higgh pressure areas NEED a high pressure lube that will stay put and remain lubricious even under extreme pressure...

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #21 on:** February 21, 2011, 09:06:56 AM »

lubriplate works well on guns , Synthetic grease from amsoil also works well . I seldom use grease except on the hinge pin on O/U , SXS or maybe a very thin coat on bolt lugs while breaking in .
Why would springs be coated ? Grease tends to dry and get solid causing more problems than good IMHO .

gunnut69 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 21, 2011, 05:54:00 PM »

Synthetic greaases don't dry out. They tend collect dust and dirt but at the very low application rate we're talking about this shouldn't be a major problem. The reason to use grease is very simple.. It stays where it pyut.. Oil tends to run off and expose that high carbon spring steel to rust and get weak.. I usually put a tiny bit on locking lugs just to make them a little smoother.. Use grease where there will be a high pressure load and avoid galling etc..

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #23 on:** February 22, 2011, 01:41:41 AM »

Quote from: gunnut69 on February 21, 2011, 05:54:00 PM

Synthetic greaases don't dry out. They tend collect dust and dirt but at the very low application rate we're talking about this shouldn't be a major problem. The reason to use grease is very simple.. It stays where it pyut.. Oil tends to run off and expose that high carbon spring steel to rust and get weak.. I usually put a tiny bit on locking lugs just to make them a little smoother.. Use grease where there will be a high pressure load and avoid galling etc..

I find syn oil stays put well. I do use grease as noted but coating on springs seems counter productive as it would either dry out and cake , collect dust and grit or slow the action of the spring . There are several dry lubes on the market as there are several surface treatments that work well. For regular oil (non syn) 3 in 1 oil still is hard to beat .

gunnut69 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 22, 2011, 08:05:11 AM »

An old gunsmith friend of mine told me once long ago that 3in1 was the gunsmtihs besy friend.. He said that if business egts slow buy a case and put it on the counter as a free give away.. Most guns given that treatment will be in for repair soon. 3in1 is a hard oil, that is it dries out and forms a varnish..and it does that fairly quickly. The way to oil a guns is simple and thre are fe tricks.. A couple of drops on a flat surface and pick them up with a medium to soft brush.. Ude the brush to transfer the oil to the gun.. Use no more than a couple of drops or the weapon will be over oiled..a very common condition. Another old smith gave me his choice for the best oil, automatic transmition fluid, (I like GM as the red is esthetically pleasing) and use only a little.. This is one of the ingrediants of the famous 'Ed's Red' formula. Why automatic transmition oil? It's a sybthetic replacement for sperm whale oil, once a very common lube for fine mechanisms and being synthetic it doesn't dry out.. Greases also oxidize and harden(dry out) which explains the 'synthetic' grease. I strongly abvise against the normal use of 3-in-1 or WD40 except as a coat for the outside to help abate surface rust.. for which they work well and the varnish actually helps a bit..

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #25 on:** February 22, 2011, 01:11:28 PM »

Shotgun news has a gunsmith section and the smith sings the praise of 3 in 1 oil this issue

Guess it depends . My uncles Parker was made before WW-1 and for the entire time he had it only 3 in 1 oil was used on it , about 60 years or more . It is still in good working order . It is said 3 in 1 oil is from fish oil , which if true is a fine oil. But to each his own.

Drilling Man · « **Reply #26 on:** February 22, 2011, 03:35:09 PM »

My friend owns a sewing machine repair store... He repairs hundreds of machines, from home owner models up to and includeing all kinds of big factory machines.

He has told me 3 in 1 oil gets him HUGE amounts of business, when folks use it in sewing machines. His opinion is, it just plain doesn't lube well...

Not something i'd want to use, or would use, in my guns.

DM

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #27 on:** February 23, 2011, 01:19:47 AM »

he should try the blue can of 3 in 1 .