broken forend stud

[zoner]

went to the range Saturday with my new(to me) 357 Handi. Recently i picked up a older 158 357 barrel with a lighter profile than the current barrels, it fit good on a Topper 88 shotgun frame with small firing pin. The barrel didn't especially like the cast load i tried but wanted to put the factory 158 gr jacketed Hydra Shoks in the same hole. At about 20 rounds the forend fell off, forend,screw,stud the whole works. I know this has been discussed here but can't find threads pertaining to repairing this. Hoping somebody can direct me to theads or offer up some ideas. I'm thinking solder but not sure....

[quickdtoo]

Best option is to send it to H&R for repair on a modern factory fitted barrel, but since it's an older barrel it can be soldered(1st choice) or epoxied on, I've done both.

Tim

[gcrank1]

I cant help but wonder if it had been 'fixed' before. Get a magnifier and take a close look at the contact area; regardless of how you fix it you will want to clean well.

[hunterwinco]

I'm sure this will get people worked up  ...Ive seen other threads in the past about these studs coming off and always wondered if you could mig it or tig it? 

[zoner]

i'm looking at a product Brownell's has called Hi Force 44, 28,000 psi, flows at 475 degrees, no need for oxyacetylene. Propane torch enough heat?

[bagdadjoe]

I'd put a heat sink around it to keep the torch from heating anything except the small area you're trying to get hot.  Brownells has some paste they use on rifle bolts when they heat 'em to bend 'em that should work.  I have some hi-temp mineral blanket material I use in my kiln, but I'm sure someone else has an idea on this as well. 

[quickdtoo]

There was a selller on ebay (Vulcan Workshop) that offered 94/6% silver solder in a kit for less than $20 shipped, I've used it for soldering shims for barrel fitting and the forend stud on the octagon barrel project, IIRC it has excellent strength of 31kpsi, and melts at less than 450º, so all you need is a propane torch, there's a link to my previous thread on it in the barrel fitting info in the FAQs, but I just checked and it appears he's not selling until June. 

One thing I learned in my quest for a good silver solder is if they describe it as "silver bearing" with no % of silver, it's 2% or less, the good stuf has at least 4% and 6% is better, anything with more will be hard solder and require 1100º to work with.

Tim

http://reviews.ebay.com/Solder-Types-and-Uses-The-Categories-and-Correct-Choice_W0QQugidZ10000000009978441