Info Needed: Remove barrel from Rem. 510

[mannyrock]

  Dear Guys,

        I have an old Remington 510, single shot .22 rifle. I got this about 30 years ago, for $45.    The finish on the stock was virtually gone, but there were no big chips or dents.  The bluing was virtually gone as well, but there were no rust pitts, only some very light surface rust in a couple spots. The bore was really good.  It is very accurate.

         I have refinished the stock, and it looks great.  But now, I want to do a re-blue. 

         I have done spot bluing before, with 44-40, but I think I want to totally reblue this piece, using Oxyblue.

         Here is my problem.  I don't know how to remove the barrel from the action, in order to do the reblue.  It looks as if there are some small pins in the action, underneath the barrel area, but I am not sure what these are for.

          I have a good set of tools, and have done several minor projects before, but I have never removed and re-installed a barrel. I am clueless.

        Can someone give me some advice on how to remove the barrel please?  And, once I remove it, can I just stick it back on and reinsert the screw/pins etc., or do I have to figure out how to do some headspacing?

   Thanks, Mannyrock

[ogree]

Looking at an exploded drawing it looks like the barrel slips in the action and is indeed held in by the 2 pins.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=4276
Gently drive them out of the action and then remove the barrel. I would guess that it will be a snug fit so you may end up using some elbow grease to get it apart, you may need to twist the barrel by hand as you are pulling in order to separate it.
No headspace adjustment would be required to re-assemble, just insert the barrel in the receiver and drive the pins back in.

Why do you need to remove the barrel before re-blueing ?
Most all manufacturers blue the barrel and action after the two components are assembled, not separately.

If I may suggest, many people don't think to approach the local individual/company that does Hot blueing and ask how much they charge to simply run the specific gun parts through the blueing tanks that you drop off. If the company doesn't have to do any prep work to the parts, they usually will charge a reduced rate for doing so.
Being that you have to do the polishing, blasting, buffing.......hand work in general to prep the rifle anyway for an application of cold blue solution. Why wouldn't you have it run through a tank of conventional blueing salts, the finished product is far superior to any cold blue method.

Just a thought cause that's what I do, the only time I use cold blue is if I need to blue a small part quickly.

Good Luck.

[mannyrock]

Ogree

   Thanks for all of the info.
 
    The only reason I would pull the barrel is that this would make it much easier to remove the small layers, spats, of rust, the hide in the space where the barrel and action meet, and in the little nooks and cranies around it.

   I guess i will drive out those pins and give it a try.  If I can't hand pull the barrel on the first try, I think I will heat the action with just a propane torch, to try to get it to expand a litte, and then give the barrel another yank.

     After I get all of the parts cleaned up, I'll check into the cost of a bluing bath only.

Best Regards,

Mannyrock

[gunnut69]

Those barrels are likely pressed in. You may have to resort to barrel blocks and a brass bushhing driven by a slide hammer to knock the barrel off. I would not remove the barrel. Shaped wood blocks will sand up to the receiver face and emery cloth used shoe shine fashion will do the work very quickly. Go to about 220-320 and  you will likely jave a finer finish than the factory applied. The local guy tells me he will blue preped guns for $35 for most common long guns. Some will cost a premium, such as certain of the M12 Winchesters.. Good luck.