Made my own neck sizing die

[TheSilverSlayer]

I have been in need of a neck sizing die for my .270 ackley for quite some time. I have been using a standard 270 win FL die to partially neck size my brass. This has worked, but accuracy has only been so-so, and I feel this method over works part of the neck. The problem is, you can only size 1/2 or less of the neck without bumping back the shoulder to 270 win dimensions. Anyway, I am in a machining class, so I took a piece of cold rolled steel, turned it to diameter, cut the appropriate threads, and used drill bits chucked in the lathe to bore out the rough internal diameters. I finished the sizing portion by lapping it to final diameter with valve lapping compound. 

Took the rifle along with 20 rounds loaded with my new die and was extremely impressed with the result.

Anyone else ever attempt to make their own reloading die? If so what was your process/experience?

[LaOtto222]

1. I have not attempted to make a die - but good for you. You gain experience using machine tools, if nothing else.
2. Did you heat treat the cold rolled die? If you didn't, it may not last very long or get scratched easily.
3. Why not make your die to take ready made collars (the kind that go into ready made neck sizing dies) - they only cost $10 or so and they are hardened steel.

I have neck sizing dies that take the collars and some that are machined to the correct size. I prefer the collar type, very versatile.

Good Luck and Good Shooting

[Reverend Recoil]

Since your die is finished and working well, I would't change a thing.  A neck sizing die of mild steel will be good for thousands of loads if your brass is kept clean.  You will likely wear out your barrel before the die.  Your next project could be a precision bullet seating die.  Good Luck.

[wncchester]

I've modified several FL dies for massive case reforming (like .22-250 from .30-06).  Also made a "universal" bushing type neck sizer and multipul neck expanders for different things.   Mild steel neck sizers will last a LOOONG time;  thin brass necks don't cause  a lot of wear on steel if it's properly lubed.

[TheSilverSlayer]

I had considered heat treating it, but the problem is getting enough heat to the inside of the die where the sizing actually happens. Any suggestions?

I may just leave it as is, because as others have stated, it works, and will probably outlast the rifle.

The reason why I didn't machine it to accept readily accessable neck size bushings is because A.) I didn't know about them when I started the project and B.) I wanted to keep this project as simple as possible.

[wncchester]

"...I didn't machine it to accept readily accessable neck size bushings is because ..."

If you can make the die you can make your own sizer bushings too, it's easy enough to do.

[Reverend Recoil]

To harden the inside of a die you will have to heat the whole die red hot, quench, and temper.  It can be difficult to prevent scaling the threads and the inside surface of the die.  I can think of two better methods.
1. Start with a wear resistant material that is machineable such as a grade-8 bolt.  You could order grade-8 stud bolts with 7/8-14 thread.  They made of tough material.  Cut slow with plenty of cutting fluid.

2. Make a sizing bushing die with the bushing from hardened steel.  A bushing would be easier to harden and temper than a die body.  A propane torch and a can of transmision fluid is all you need.  A good source of bushing material is drill rod, engine cylider head bolts, or old gun barrels.  Lap to final size after heat treatment.

[TheSilverSlayer]

Interesting advice everyone. Another reason I didn't make it to accept bushing is the fact that I only reload .270 AI in rifle. But I am thinking I may make another die with the ability to take different bushings. I'm sure I will buy more rifles in the future.

[.22-5-40]

Hello, TheSilverSlayer.  You said you used cold rolled steel for die?   Heating to red, & quenching will do nothing..there is not enough carbon in C.R. to harden that way.  You would need to either pack-harden or use a Cyanide bath.  Either way, it is called case-hardening..the surface of your die will absorb carbon & when quenched will have a thin .002-.005" glass hard "case", while the interior steel will be tough.  Bear in mind though..this type of steel will tend to warp when quenched..that is why special jigs & blocks are put into firearm actions to prevent this when color-case hardening...sometimes they still warp!  If you want a hardened die, your best bet would be to use an air-hardening tool steel.

[jedman]

    I have made quite a few homemade dies from 7/8 14 threaded stock,  mostly for necking down a case a step at a time usually from a strait walled case to form a bottle necked wildcat.
  For me personally I have found that modifying a LEE collet neck sizing die to be the easiest route to get a neck size die.
   I have a rimmed 270 wildcat round that I used a LEE 270 Win. collet die and all that was need was shortening to the die to not touch the shoulder and the die sizes the case neck perfectly.
    The way LEE makes there collet dies they are not really fit to the case dimensions closely,
 I just took mine apart to check and there is clearance all the way Thur the inside of the die body for a case with a blown out shoulder such as a 270 AI.
  So what I am saying is even if they are not available thru LEE in the caliber your working with most likely you can easily modify one of there common off the shelf collet dies to work for you.
  What you made is fine also, as long as you are getting better accuracy and happy with the results I see no reason to change anything.        Jed

[TheSilverSlayer]

I had actually been planning on buying a lee collet die until the thought occured to me that I could make my own die. Initially, I just wanted to see if I could do it, I wasn't expecting anything too great. Also I wanted to practice cutting threads on a lathe. Turns out the die works pretty darn good, looks like I wont need a collet die after all.