Author Topic: how to prep new brass?? (Read 604 times)

MINNESOTA DICK · « **on:** December 28, 2003, 04:13:37 PM »

I just got a new 22 inch, 17 rem bull barrel from VVCG for my Contender and now I need to get myself set up to do some reloading for it. I am going to buy 500 rounds of new 17 remington brass.

Now my question is how to prep this new brass for reloading? Do I full length resize it or do I just neck size it?

All comments welcome.

Minnesota Dick

longwinters · « **Reply #1 on:** December 28, 2003, 06:35:41 PM »

My understanding, and practice, is to full length resize. Then measure and trim any if necessary. You will probably also find that the cases are not all the same length. Some are long and some are quite a bit shorter than the "cut to length" posted in the reloading manuals.

long

Jack Crevalle · « **Reply #2 on:** December 29, 2003, 01:52:59 AM »

You will also want to deburr the flash holes.

Hcliff · « **Reply #3 on:** December 29, 2003, 03:21:39 AM »

Always ful length resize first. This make sure each hads the dings out of it and that they all start off the same. I do the flash holes to remove the burrs too. . I am guilty of not trimming evey brass but is does help with accuracy. It souns like lot of work but will pay off in the end

Hcliff

dave375hh · « **Reply #4 on:** December 29, 2003, 04:06:14 AM »

I most cases new brass is going to be under sized already. Partial sizing in a FL die is all that's needed to square up the necks. Check for length and trim if needed(rarely) Deburr the flash holes, uniform the primer pockets, and chamfer the case mouths. After they're fireformed you'll decide what form/extent of sizing you need to do. I just completed 900 .17 Rem. for my brother-in-law and one helpfull trick I picked up was to use the new style casemouth deburring tool from Lyman or Hollands made for VLD or molyed bullets. The long taper lets the bullets sit on the casemouth without having to hold them. My pudgie fingers didn't help much, loading those phonograph needles they call bullets LOL.

Jack Crevalle · « **Reply #5 on:** December 29, 2003, 04:08:11 AM »

One other reason for sizing new, unfired, brass is that frequently the opening in the case will be out of round.

woodseye · « **Reply #6 on:** December 29, 2003, 11:04:33 AM »

Good advise in above posts.......I always resize to uniform and trim all my new brass to trim length as it squares the ends and most will have a little to cut off usually. Deburring the flash holes is a one time job that is worth while to do. Chamfer case mouth and your ready to prime and load. I want to get one of those VLD chamfering tools as I've heard nothing but good about them and they keep you from scratching bullets when you seat them also.

woods

Ron T. · « **Reply #7 on:** December 29, 2003, 05:55:44 PM »

Everything that needs to be done to new brass has already been mentioned by those who have already posted.

Do everything mentioned (above) and you should have accurate brass ready to be loaded.

Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

woodseye · « **Reply #8 on:** December 30, 2003, 12:08:56 AM »

Oh Yeah.........and ENJOY YOUR NEW 17 CALIBER!!!

woods

bigdaddytacp · « **Reply #9 on:** December 30, 2003, 10:36:38 AM »

Quote from: woodseye

Good advise in above posts.......I always resize to uniform and trim all my new brass to trim length as it squares the ends and most will have a little to cut off usually. Deburring the flash holes is a one time job that is worth while to do. Chamfer case mouth and your ready to prime and load. I want to get one of those VLD chamfering tools as I've heard nothing but good about them and they keep you from scratching bullets when you seat them also.

woods

.......I haven't tried one of the low angle deburrer but I did find a tip on another way in a gun rag article that I saw repeated on the boards.....I use a old bore brush and use some OOO steel wool on it and spin the case in a drill-case holder such as Sinclairs or Lees or hold the case and spin the brush in a drill., in and out of the neck after regular deburring or trimming...this makes the case mouth really smooth and clean and the molly bullets seat so smooth and without scraping molly off.......I also polish my expanders in dies that use them or use a tighter bushing on the molly loads for good neck tension but the polished neck is part of my normal case prep now and it sure SEEMS to help with good consistant neck tension and round groups! good luck and good shooting-loading!!!

woodseye · « **Reply #10 on:** December 30, 2003, 11:47:21 AM »

I like that tip Bigdaddy, I saw it on one of the forums and forgot about it. Will try and see what it does, I polish any expander buttons or spindles myself. Thanks.

woods

razmuz · « **Reply #11 on:** December 30, 2003, 03:50:18 PM »

For about 20 years I just loaded up new brass and had no real problems. Occasionally, the brass would shave a little copper from the bullets, but no real problem. Today, I completly resize because I don't shoot as much and have plenty of time. Don't fall into the trap of doing all the crap target shooters do for your hunting rifle.

woodseye · « **Reply #12 on:** December 31, 2003, 12:30:36 AM »

Unless you "enjoy" reloading and like to do things to add consistancy. Some guys are really into accuracy and the more uniform and consistant you load the more you can accomplish all your gun is capable of.

woods

MINNESOTA DICK · « **Reply #13 on:** December 31, 2003, 03:35:10 AM »

First off I would like to thank all of the people for their relpys. And after reading all of them here is what I and going to do. :shock:

1st time
1) full length resize
2) trim length to sq up neck
3) de-burr
4) load them up and shoot.

2nd time
1) neck size
2) check length, tirm if required and deburr. (check for bad cases also)
3) clean primer pocket
4) load and shoot

3rd time
same as 2nd time

Now I have to decide what load I want.

Thinking about using:

Hornady 25 gr Hp or maybe Calhoon 25 gr dbl hp
Varget 24.5 gr
Rem 7 1/2 primer

Thanks again for the replys.

Minnesota Dick