Getting Started

[tsigmon]

Ok, we got a loaner  Handi in .243 with a youth synthetic stock for my 11 yr. old to try before we buy one.  We shot Saturday afternoon, with very poor results, using  Remington 100 gr PSP Core- Lokts.   The scope was WAY off but that didn't bother me too much. I was more concerned with trying to shoot a group of a decent size. We had to move the target up to about 40 yards to even get on paper (Used about 4 shots to this point), let the barrel cool for probably 35 minutes  and started again .  Three shots @ 40 yards in about 3" group. I don't have a trigger pull scale but I am guessing  6-7 lbs, maybe more, of pull. Crisp when it breaks, but very heavy. I'm sure this doesn't help much.
 
That night (after reading Handi Basics 101 and the FAQ's) I did the dollar bill under the forearm test and could not get between the forearm and barrel.  I took the fore arm off and you could definitly tell where the front of the forearm was touching the barrel for about 1/2". Also it was touching at the back along the chamber  on both sides and on the frame where it hinges.I think I understand that it is not to touch the barrel in front of the screw pillar but what about at the back?
 
My plan for now is to get some O rings, shoot without the forearm and see how it does. Then install the O ring, check for contact on barrel, remove material if needed and shoot again to see if there is a difference. As for the trigger I have permission to do what I want but not sure  how much I want to spend on a gun that is not mine. I don't feel qualified to do the trigger work and don't have a clue what a gunsmith would charge to work on the trigger .
 
Any more suggestions or thoughts?

[petemi]

First off, since it isn't your rifle, I'd just try the "0" ring.  I wouldn't mess with the trigger no matter how bad it is, permission or not.  Some guys have good luck with the .243, and others can't get them to shoot.  That's why I don't own one.  I think the 7mm-08 is more versatile and has a better track record for accuracy, especially if you reload.  If you don't reload, with ammo running 20 to 30 bucks plus a box of 20, I'd give it some serious thought.  The .223 is a viable option with much less expensive ammo.  I know many kids have killed their first deer with a .223, but I believe, to be a deer rifle, it has to be in the hands of a very skilled hunter and marksman who knows where the vitals are from any angle and can put a bullet there.  Also, the pistol caliber Handis work well on Whitetails.

Pete

[thejanitor]

Just remember when shooting without the forend make sure you don't forget to put it back on before pushing the release button or you may damage the loaner scope/barrel as it falls off.....    almost happened to me. And since it isn't yours we would hate to have you owing for something.
Good luck.  thejanitor

[quickdtoo]

If it's a 20" Superlight, any barrel heat will make groups go to pot without forend work which you're probably already aware of, best advice is to only shoot two shot groups, it's plenty to get a good idea of what it will do and will work fine for deer, the first shot is the only shot that really counts, as long as it consistently puts that round where it's supposed to, I wouldn't worry about how accurate three or more shots are.  Also try lighter bullets, some 243s seem to have a bit slower twist rate even tho they're supposed to be 1:10", those that have trouble with 100gr bullets usually find 85-95gr to work better, the 95gr Fusion ammo would be a good one to try, lots of recommended ammo in the FAQs link Best Factory Ammo. FWIW, my 243 Superlight with 100gr Speer handloads shoots the first two into well less than an inch and the third opens the group up to about 2" at 100yds, and it will get worse after that without letting it cool, two shot groups tell you more about the rifle and lessen the cooling time required between strings, for a big game rifle, that's plenty, saves ammo costs too. 

Tim