Mauser 95 Stock Question

[bikerbeans]

Hi All,
 
I am considering buying an M95 that has already been rebarreled/rechambered and has a Bubba custom stock, read hacked up former military stock.   What is a good supplier(s) for a replacement sporting type wood stock for this gun?   
 
thanks
 
BB

[billy_56081]

Should work in a small ring mauser stock. Midway has them.
 

[shot1]

Yes Midway is a good place to look because they have everybody's stocks. Any stock that will fit a small ring Mauser 96 will work with your 95 and the 93 also. midwayusa.com has a Boyds' wood stock Product# 117-448 that you finish yourself for $89.99 . If you want a fiberglass type stock I would suggest the Bell and Carlson. They list their Mauser Carbelite Classic Stock  Product # 677-749 at $169.99 but these stocks really need you to glass bed the action to really shoot their best. A better stock that Bell and Carlson makes is their Mauser Medalist Stock that has an aluminum full bed block through out the action area. The color black stock Product# 254-951 is $236.99 and they have different colors that run $257.99 to $267.99 . One stock that I will steer you away from is the Choate fiberclass filled stock. I have one on a M-96 Swede that is sported and I had to do a bunch of glass bedding and a bunch of cutting to get the safety leaver to fit on the Bold trigger I installed and also had to make and glass bed aluminum pillars for where the action screws go because the stock material is too soft to hold the screws tight. The Ram Line stocks are in about the same shape also. The B & C Medalist Stock is on my shopping list as a replacement. By the way I built a M-95 for a friend and used the wood Boyds' stock and glass bedded it made a new bolt handle to work with a scope and welded it on and turned the military trigger into a single stage adjustable trigger using a trick an old gunsmith taught me. Drilled and tapped it and put a Leupold one piece mount and rings on it.  The barrel had already been cut down to 22" and recrowned and the bore looked like it was new. The gun had been sported back in the 1960s when the barrel was cut and it had been hot blued really well and Williams sights had been put on the barrel. The stock that was on it had been broken at the wrist when someone broke into my fiends house when he was a little boy and stole the rifle but was caught as they were coming out of the house by my friends father as he pulled into the drive way. They threw the rifle down and broke the stock and ran. The father gave the barreled action to my friend and he had it in the back of his closet for about 20 years when he brought it to me and asked if it was worth getting a stock for. I took one look at it and the bore looked like a new dime and said YES. After the rebuild I loaded up some 154 gr Hornady interlock SP bullets with 45 grs IMR 4350 to keep the pressures down for the old small ring action and it was a tack driver and has been a real deer killer for my friend.

[bikerbeans]

Thanks for the information.  Price went up on the gun so I decided to pass it up.
 
BB

[Winter Hawk]

Shot1,

What was the trick with the trigger you learned?  My 95 has the military two-stage trigger and it would be nice to make a single stage with lighter pull out of it.

-WH-

[shot1]

The trick with the trigger that I learned is pretty detailed. You first file a flat on the piece of the trigger that runs against the action. It is part of the trigger forward of where it attaches to the action. Then you cut you a piece of metal  that is L shaped that you can mate to the flat and have it extend forward of that piece of the trigger that you filed the flat on. You drill and tap the two pieces where they mate and using a screw you attach the piece of metal that you cut out to the trigger. Then you drill a hole through the other end of the metal piece you made, tap it, and place an allen head screw in it and screw it through the piece until it comes through the top of your metal piece and hits the frame. Keep tightening this screw and as it presses on the action bottom it will cause the trigger to start pulling taking up the first stage of the pull and the more you tighten that allen screw the lighter the trigger pull gets. Leave at least ten thousands worth of engagement between your trigger and bolt sear engagement area. I which I could draw you a picture because it is hard to describe.

[hillbill]

The trick with the trigger that I learned is pretty detailed. You first file a flat on the piece of the trigger that runs against the action. It is part of the trigger forward of where it attaches to the action. Then you cut you a piece of metal  that is L shaped that you can mate to the flat and have it extend forward of that piece of the trigger that you filed the flat on. You drill and tap the two pieces where they mate and using a screw you attach the piece of metal that you cut out to the trigger. Then you drill a hole through the other end of the metal piece you made, tap it, and place an allen head screw in it and screw it through the piece until it comes through the top of your metal piece and hits the frame. Keep tightening this screw and as it presses on the action bottom it will cause the trigger to start pulling taking up the first stage of the pull and the more you tighten that allen screw the lighter the trigger pull gets. Leave at least ten thousands worth of engagement between your trigger and bolt sear engagement area. I which I could draw you a picture because it is hard to describe.

yea just like he said!
actually that is good advice but for those of us without engineering degrees, i just put a BOLD trigger in mine with a side safety, makes it hard to find a good stock for it without inletting for the side safety but made a whole different gun out of it.shot1 is a whole lot smarter than the average wabbit i can tell!

[shot1]

On a M-96 Swede I sported I went the BOLD trigger route. I wanted the slide safety and did not want to fool with modifying the original safety. I did make a new bolt handle and drilled and tapped it for scope.

[gunnut69]

Please note there are some minor differences between the inletting for the 93-94-95-96. It is fairly inconsequncial and with glass bedding can be adapted but it does exist.  Also when nmodifying the mauser trigger do not take out all the take up as this will create a dangerous situation. The actions are made with a certain amount of looseness in the bolt,receiver fit. If the take up is totally removed the gun may well fire if the bolt is closed vigorously.. The aftermarket triggers remoev the pronlem by moving the high tolerance fits into the trigger housing.