People have different ways of doing things. When it comes to spacers or liners, I prefer to use Super Glue to hold the liners onto the scales. It's thinner than epoxy and absorbs into fibre liner material to add strength. I smear superglue(wearing a glove) on the handle, fit the spacer material which was cut to fit the slab onto the slab and clamp them between two pieces of wood for 24 hours. That much super glue takes more time to dry and I find after 24 hours I have no problems with them separating. Use a fair amount of glue since the liner material will absorb some, but try not to have so much runoff that it glue the slabs to the clamping material. The advantage to this method is that with the liner/scale already joined it makes drilling the pin holes much easier. Others use epoxy. Since the liner is between the scale and the tang, I'm not sure it much matters. Stay away from 5 minute epoxies unless you're really sure you can assemble and clamp things in 4 minutes. I use the 30 minute stuff and don't mind waiting for it to cure. When I glue the slabs/liners to the tang, it's what I use. You have to make sure you mix it long enough; most people don't. The best way I can describe it is that the epoxy is fairly stiff when you start mixing, and then after a couple of minutes of stirring it suddenly becomes easier....it's ready at that point.
When you buy 5/32" pins to fit those same diameter holes, it's going to be a tight fit, believe me. Not only through the metal, but the wood also. You need to be reasonably gentle when pounding them through, since you can crack the handle wood, if that's what you're using. Some people use special presses, or carefully use their vise(padded with glued leather strips) to do that. I use number and letter drills on my tangs/handles which are a couple to a few thousandths of an inch larger than the pin, and make it much easier to place them in, held in place by epoxy. If I want strength, I use Loveless bolts or Corby's instead of straight pins. One other thing, if in your case you get the pin safely through the tang/handle material, some people say you need to peen the pin a bit to ensure a snug fit. First of all, that's kind of a throwback to pre-epoxy days, however if you choose to do so, be gentle. When you expand the pin beyond its diameter a bit, that creates permanent pressure on the handle material. Expand the pin too much, and eventually the handle material will crack from that constant pressure. See it all time on old wood or bone handles.
I hold bolsters on with pins that are hammer welded into the bolster hole until it's difficult to see they are there unless it's a different material. In the case of your knife blank there are no provisions for a bolster or a guard so you needn't worry about that at this point.
Best thing to do is get a good book/video on basic knifebuilding. It'll be a lot easier than reading my posts, especially when it comes to the area of actually fitting and attaching the handles/bolsters to the knife. If the book/video does say to solder or weld a guard(on a stick tang) or bolster, let me know and I'll give you an alternative method that works just as well. The stuff I've included here is things that you might not normally find in a basic text, which I've learned and it's made my work a bit easier.
