new to cast bullet reloading help

[tacklebury]

Nother little flair tool trick is the one from a .45 colt Lee Classic Loader if you happen to have or get one.  I use that little bullet shaped flaring tool with a little hammer to bump the slight expansion from the die out further.  Works good and doesn't break mouths. 

[Graybeard]

Once upon a long time ago we had a sponsor who sold all sorts of neat tools but is no longer in business. One of his tools has found a home on my loading bench. Prior to getting this tool I used a tapered punch to put just enough flair on cases that needed it.

This tool is basically two tapered punches in one with a handle. It has enough weight that what I do with it is put it in the case mouth then tap the bottom on case on the bench and let the weight of the tool flair it. Works beautifully but the old way with a tapered punch works and most folks likely have some of them laying around.

[GH1]

 I've been reloading commercially available cast bullets for a few years now, and here's what I've learned.
 There's a great deal of talk about bullet hardness, velocity, and leading. My experience has shown me that the most critical factor in eliminating leading is bullet fit. A cast bullet needs to be .001"-.002" larger than the bore in order to seal correctly.
 I can't comment on gas checks, I've never dealt with them.
 The vast majority of my cast loads have been .38/.357, but I've done a fair amount of .45-70 and a few .30-30. The .45-70 works very well with cast bullets, I use 25 gr of AA5744 with plain based 405 gr made by Missouri Bullet Co with a velocity of around 1300 FPS and no leading. The .45-70 loads like a big pistol cartridge, very easy and forgiving.
 The .30-30 was a little more tricky, in that I had to buy a universal neck flaring tool in order to keep from shaving lead when I seated the bullet. I was using bullets sized at .309" at around 1900 FPS and they leaded my Micro-Groove bore like crazy. The accuracy was attrocious, it turns out I needed to have bullets sized at .311". Live and learn.
 The .38 was by far the easiest to load for, very well suited to cast bullet use. I use 3.0 gr of Bullseye and end up with a comfortable, accurate round.
 For my .357 rounds I use the same bullet as my .38, a 158 gr RNFP sized to .358" made by Dardas. I use it for both my revoler and levergun. My powder charge is 13.5 gr of AA#9 with a regular small pistol primer, not a magnum primer. It works well in both. I get a very small amount of leading with my revolver but none with the levergun. I suspect the Taurus has a little bit looser bore than the Marlin.
 I can't coment on the .308 or .303 as I've never dealt with those rounds, and I am by no means an expert onn any of this. These are merely my experiences, posted with the intent of possibly helping you out.  Good luck with you cast bullet endeavors.
GH1
   

[sidewinder319]

Micro-Groove barrels are not cast friendly. They use a bullet that runs out at .004 +. The problem is in the throat. Ranch Dog Molds are made for the Marlins and 92 Browning Micro barrels. The 30-30 is a very cast friendly round. The old 30 WCF has a long neck for protecting your lube bands. The WCF can be pushed to jacketed bullet velocity with gas checked hard cast bullets. The 150 FN lead is very accurate in a Savage 99 or a 94 Winchester.

[Tom W.]

Durn, Flash... I've been a member at the other site for many years... It doesn't make me smell funny or anything, and I've learned some stuff there as well as helped people who asked.


However,if you are not happy there, don't go...