I have done exactly this, I put a 700 .260 bbl. I got at a gun show on the 243 Mod. 7. I made a receiver wrench (an L shaped one that fits into the bolt lug channels and piece of pipe for a cheater) Ripped an Oak 4x4 about 5" long and rasped a channel in each half to hold the barrel ( w/blocks about 1/4" apart) Put some rosen in each 1/2 channel and ran the bbl. action in till about an 1/8" from the block to clear the recoil lug, in a LARGE bench vise. Tightened the vise around the blocks as tight as I could w/a cheater and a 4# short handled hammer. Inserted the L wrench (Sinclair sell a fancy one for switch bbl. bench guns)) and put on the cheater and hit the end of the pipe Hard to break the factory Bbl. loose. Popped easily. Cleaned the threads in the action and the new bbl. applied a little red grease to both and the faces of the recoil lug, removed the factory bbl from the blocks put in the new bbl (tightened REAL Tight-THE key to it all), hand screwed the action w/recoil lug onto the new bbl. put in a GO gauge and tightened as needed. The barrel didn't index to the markings but I don't care. I also have a 7-08 factory bbl. but the chamber is about .004" short to headspace properly and will have the local gunmaker run a reamer in it one day to properly headspace (bbl doesn't tighten up before the GO gauge stops). I have also used the same setup to change 110 series Savage No action wrench only a barrel nut wrench needed , Husqvarna between factory 306 and custom 338-06 and a Springfield (It was REALLY TIGHT). What I found the hardest thing to do is to get the recoil lug to index properly when doing the final tightening as there is no index key like there is on the Savage. I know its farmer gunsmithing but I probably only have $5.00 in the whole setup other than the commercial Savage barrel nut wrench and headspace gauges (I first used new commercial cases for a gauge) but it works just fine-Good Luck-Muddy
