If the rifle is stamped Pedersoli - it's a Pedersoli Sharps that was distributed by Traditions. This is common in the US retail market. My Pedersoli '74 is stamped EMF who is a firearms retailer in California. Plus, the barrel is match grade ...
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The threads are Square threads, 1.130" in diameter.
The threaded portion of the shank ends 0.625" in from the shoulder.
The breech end of the barrel extends past the threaded portion for 0.125" making a total shank length 0.750"
Thread relief cut is 0.175" wide
Total length of the threads is 0.450"
Pitch is 10 threads per inch.
Thread width is 0.050"
Thread depth is 0.030"
Thread relief diameter is 1.012"
The Shoulder at the tulip is 1.240" in Diameter
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The barrel specifications are the same as the Pedersoli Gibbs rifle which is THE replica percussion rifle that is renowned for accuracy and takes more International match wins than any other percussion rifle
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The regular Pedersoli 1874 Sharps models copy the original Sharps dimensions except we have made the side plates .050" thicker than the originals (which Shiloh copies more closely). Because Pedersoli knew some shooters would likely use smokeless powder with dangerous pressures, the decision to make the action more husky was done to safeguard against rupturing the breach block side plate grooves, which now are set deeper and stronger in the Pedersoli models. Many years ago a gun was sacrificed at the proof house to see what pressure could cause problems.
At 72,500 psi chamber pressure we found .003" setback on the breach block but no chamber or barrel harm and the barrel passed proof test guages OK. Such a pressure was obtained using a machined steel ctg. case in 45-70 size which had a small primer pocket., plus using 3x500 gr bullets, plus full case of bullseye powder.
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The process of Broach Rifling which is a form of cut rifling. Instead of a single point cutter being drawn through a prepared bore hole many many times, the bore hole is prepared to whatever standard the maker desires. Then a long broach having 14-16 sets of cutters on it is pulled slowly through the bore hole. (of course ample lubrication is always flowing).
Each set of cutters is slightly larger than the prior set and as the broach is pulled through, these cutters (made in the shape of the grooves desired) cut equally in all directions and gradually produce the grooves of the barrel.
This broach rifling is the process used by Pedersoli to rifle all the barrels, both for muzzle loading guns as well as for cartridge rifles.
At Pedersoli all barrels are drilled and reamed but then we add a third step which is to HONE the bore hole to bring it up to the match grade tolerance of the final bore diameter. Also the honing produces a much finer finish in the bore hole and this fine finish becomes the tops of your lands.....mirror finish affect before we start the broaches on their job of cutting all the grooves.
Also, we use two of these 5-6 foot long broaches on each rifle barrel.
The first broach brings the rifling up to within .0020" of the final dimension. The second broach having 15 cutters brings the rifling up the last .0020" to the final dimension.
This second broach has the last three cutters of the exact same size. As cutter #13 makes the final tiny cut it is worn a bit. Eventually cutter #13 will no longer bring the groove up to the final diameter so cutter #14 which has been doing no work, comes into play and handles that final cut.
#14 eventually wears a bit and cutter #15 which has done no work up to this time, comes into play and takes over making the final cut.
Experience tells us when to remove the broaches and have them resharpened back to normal dimensions. Barrels are visually inspected using a borescope which projects the picture onto a large TV monitor. Air gaging is performed to verify the rifling is within match grade tolerances (plus/minus .0002").
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Double set trigger adjustments
(Sharps type rifles only)
REAR TRIGGER
1. Turn screw located behind the rear trigger, inwards until hammer will stay cocked without having the rear trigger “set” (clicked.)
2. If this screw is adjusted inwards too much, the hammer will not fall when the front trigger is pulled strongly.
3. If the screw is not set inwards enough, the hammer will fail to remain in full cock position.
4. The screw must be turned inwards until the hammer will remain in full cock without first setting the rear trigger.
5. When adjusting the screw, move screw in 1/4 to 1/2 turn increments and recheck results before making another adjustment.
FRONT TRIGGER
1. The front trigger will release the hammer even if the rear trigger has not been “set.”
2. With the rear trigger “not set” the front trigger pressure required to release the hammer will be much stronger than when the rear trigger has been “set.”
3. The front trigger adjustment screw located between the two triggers changes the amount of movement or travel which the front trigger must make before the hammer is released.
4. Turning this screw inwards will reduce the trigger travel and turning the screw outwards will increase the trigger travel required to release the cocked hammer.
5. If adjusted inward too much, it will not “hold” the setting against the rear trigger notch inside the action.
6. Proper adjustment should produce a very small front trigger movement with only a light pressure required to release the hammer.
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Haven't shot it yet, need to work on the whole black powder thing.
Recommended readings ....
http://www.wahsatchdesperadoes.com/Intro_to_BPCR_Loading.pdfhttp://www.goexpowder.com/load-chart.html 
