Handloading 10mm

[jrfrmn]

Can anyone tell me the cost of getting started loading for a 10mm round vs 357 or 44mag.

[Flash]

This isn't the correct forum for a question. This forum is for buying, selling and trading.

[ourway77]

I think it's up too the Moderators to move this post or the poster can repost in the right place.

[tom548]

To load any one you need the same tooling, any price over about $ 150.00 and up depending on what kind you buy.

[Lloyd Smale]

somewhere between a 150 bucks and 1500 bucks. 

[jrfrmn]

This isn't the correct forum for a question. This forum is for buying, selling and trading.

I am so sorry!

[jrfrmn]

I think it's up too the Moderators to move this post or the poster can repost in the right place.

Where is the right place?

[SHOOTALL]

Can anyone tell me the cost of getting started loading for a 10mm round vs 357 or 44mag.

The others noted the press and dies , RCBS has a Rock Crusher set up to get you started that will last a lifetime and they will repair it for life free. Redding has some of the best dies made IMHO . Around $300.00 to get set up and start last time I checked , look for a sale on line. Bullets often run close for jacketed bullets of same construction but lead can be a big advantage with smaller ones. Not only in price but shipping if need be. 500 10 mm from berry's bullets are plated and are a good cross from the lead to plated. I haven't priced them for some time I would guess around 70 bucks but you can check. Primers here are abou 4 bucks a 100 . Powder the less goes in a 357 mag and more in a 44 mag. the 10 mm is closer to the 357m. The less you use the more you save. Brass depending where you get it can be close in price .
 With the 10 mm the type gun you will be shooting it in matters . If the case is not fully supported and you shoot hot loads a bluge will show up around the base of the case. Glocks do this. If you size it then keep loading hot the case can split and cause problems . So some don't load so hot and don't load cases alot of times with 10 mm. So your brass with a 10 mm might cost more depending on the gun you have.
 If you shoot alot you can save money if you load with an eye to saving , look for sales etc. If you want better loads you can taylor one to your need and gun.
 if you want to get the most for the cost 357 might be the best choice.

[Mikey]

Shootall:  that is spot on about reloading the 10mm.  I have seen some interesting case failures with fullpower 10s in reloaded cases and unsupported barrels, they blow like 38 Supers.  I agree that between the three the 357 is the best choice.  I often run cases reloaded 20-25 times from my 38s and 357s although I don't get that with my semi-autos.   Overall cost may even be less with the surplus deals available for once fired 38/357 cases and nicely priced cast slugs.  And of course, a one lb can of powder goes a lot farther in those skinny cases than in the bigger ones....

[lrrice]

I have a s&w 1076 and have reloaded the brass many many times with no bulge but I keep the loads light with lead bullets and unique powder.  If you do have issues with bulges lee makes a die you can smash the brass through to remove the bulge.  I'm sure its not real good for case life but it should work.  I cast my own bullets so the 10 costs me about 4 cents per shot, if I use tula primers, that's about as cheap as I could get 22lr before the recent shortage.  Aside from the price of the brass, the reloading cost will be close to 357 and cheaper than the 44 which uses more lead and powder.  I have run both Lyman and Lee carbide dies and there isn't a dimes worth of difference unless you use the auto measure, then the powder through expanding die is awesome.  I batch loaded many 1000's of rounds on a lyman turret before I found a lee pro 1000 in a yard sale for $20.  The Lee progressive are finicky and not for a beginner but once it is set up I can reload every piece of brass I have in very short order .  I am fan of turrets for the beginner because you can set and forget your dies and not have to change them out.  Lee Classic cast turret is the absolute best you can get for the money plus replacement turrets are so cheap you can easily afford one for each set of dies.

Just like Ford, Chevy and Dodge, most everyone has their favorite products.  In the end it boils down to budget they will all work and some require more tweaking and fussing than others (not always in direct correlation to price).
Reloading Equipment comes in three forms-- cheap, fast and easy--pick any two.
Most likely you will not spend less money because you reload, but you will be able to afford to shoot a whole lot more.

[SHOOTALL]

Irrice , I have had the chance to see a 10 mm Glock 20 round burst at the unsupported area with a loaded magazine in place. Now I can't say if it was reloaded brass that had seen better days or a double load. But the result could come from either. Smashing the brass back in place is a very dangerous pratice.
 What happened was the chambered round split/burst in the unsupported area which is over the mag well to the front. It caused the next 2 rounds to ignite . Again I don't know if it was heat or pcs. of the case that set them off. The result was the slide came off. The magazine blew out and apart. The shooter was not injured. The gun was put back together and it worked with a new mag. The spring in the first mag was not found. Things come to mind , the plastic parts of the Glock flexed enough to allow the gun to come apart quickly venting the pressure / explosion. The unsupported area of the barrel needs to be addresed by those reloading as this is not the only case.
 S&W may have a supported barrel and it may not be an issue. The reloader needs to know what he is dealing with .

[lrrice]

Don't misunderstand, I was not advocating using a bulge buster, I was just saying they were out there.  I was however advocating keeping the reloads lighter to extend brass longevity not to mention far less wear and tear on the pistol.