There is the top of the line Ohler 35 Proof Chronograph at $595.00 shipped TYD.
http://www.oehler-research.com/model35.htmlOr any of the plethora of lesser models to fit a budget.
I purchased a PACT 1XP for about $140 shipped TYD and am happy with it for the amount of time that I use a chronograph.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/369265/pact-model-1-xp-chronograph-with-improved-sky-screen-mounting-bracketThis from
http://www.realguns.com/Commentary/comar44.htm...knowing how fast the bullet leaves the barrel of a specific firearm will allow us to determine bullet trajectory along line of sight, as well as how fast the bullet will be traveling, and how hard it will hit at any selected distance. The ballistic chronograph isn't much more than two sensors spaced a known distance of apart [sic], and a timing circuit. When the bullet crosses the first sensor, the clock starts, when it crosses the second sensor, the clock stops. Then some software, written by the guy who didn't fall asleep in algebra class on the day they were working on time distance problems, interprets the results into feet per second. Throw in a little calculus with some bullet specific streamlining values, and you've got a ton of external ballistic information.
I think for me the chrono was a "passing" thing. I have one. I use it - sparingly. It works well.
It has certainly made me more confident when hunting. It took the mystery out of the velocity unknowns. But now it just sits there mostly, waiting for me. Please, do not take away the wrong message here.
My range is Private...my land, and 30 minutes away from the house. Upon arrival it takes me 30 minutes (5 minutes is the chrono) to set everything up to start shooting. It takes another 30 minutes to put everything away at the end of the day. Everything is hauled in and hauled out to keep Poachers from stealing it. So there is a certain time investment for me to go shooting for groups on paper, particularly if I am shooting through the chronograph. And it is in the woods, with trees overhead and scatter/diffused sunlight on the skyscreens. It is best set up where there are no overhead trees as scattered sunlight, refracted/difused sunlight through tree branches, wind shifting tree branch shadows, will negatively affect readings.
You will need a sturdy tripod, the kind sold in camera stores. I painted the leading edges of my sky screens to show me the "Sweet Spot" within which to try to shoot to avoid blasting a support. So far so good.
Set up can be a little problematic, if you are trying to shoot for groups at the same time as you are reading velocities, and has nothing to do with the electronics. The rifle muzzle, skyscreens, and target have to align. Getting that alignmnet is tempermental at best. Use of hand held radios with a shooting partner is recommended.
Take extra batteries (flat 9V in mine like smoke detector) with you to the range as the time between uses is not kind to batteries and it is no fun to get there, get set up, and find a dead one. And take the battery out between uses as battery acid and metal electronic contacts do not mix. Just saying. This did not happen to mine.
Ths distance between the muzzle and first sky screen (~12' min. and 15' is best) is real important for heavy rifles as the muzzle blast can negatively affect the timing by setting off the first microsensor before the bullet gets there, seemingly and artificially "slowing down the bullet" velocity - dramatically - leaving you to wonder WTH did these "squib loads" come from, until you realize what is going on.
Good luck...