My first Ruger rifle

[STRANGE1]

I just ordered an American 22-250 from Buds. Now I need to find a scope and some dies.  Any tips or tricks to make these guns more accurate?   I'm not sure what to expect, but I really want MOA or better out to 300 yards.

[SHOOTALL]

For a scope get something in the 12+ magnification if you want tight groups at 300 yards  . Nikon is a good scope as is Leupold  scopes The Nikon might  be a bit less expensive. At that distance I like a scope that allows me to see bullet hits in the target or whiskers on the ground hog , I like 16 + power myself. Good ammo is important it's hard to shoot MOA with FMJ bullets or hunting bullets in many cases match bullets for tight groups. I find the Nosler BT bullets , CCI bench rest primers and good Remington brass ( read new or once fired ) work well . There are other good bullets , a buddy swears by DOG TOWN seconds .

[SHOOTALL]

a good trigger goes a long way also .

[STRANGE1]

UPS guy brought me a nikon prostaff 4-12x40 today.  I wanted more magnification, but felt like this was the best scope I could squeeze into the budget.  One of the reasons I went with the ruger over the savage axis was the fact that it has a user adjustable trigger.  I went to a shop where I could actually fondle each rifle side by side, and the ruger trigger felt much better.  I don't know if there was any room to make it lighter, but it already felt better than the trigger on my Stevens that I have polished and tinkered with.  This gun is to teach my new wife to shoot, so tight groups at 300 won't be necessary right away, but I would like to see tight (1/2") groups at 100 and be able to hit some soda cans at 300. 

[SHOOTALL]

That should be no problem. let us know how the combo works .

[Oldshooter]

In my experience if you neck size you will find you get better groups. By neck sizing you fireform the case to that particular rifle. Not to mention much easier resizing. IN case you haven't got those dies yet.

[FPH]

In my experience if you neck size you will find you get better groups. By neck sizing you fireform the case to that particular rifle. Not to mention much easier resizing. IN case you haven't got those dies yet.

X2

[STRANGE1]

I have already ordered dies, but have nothing against purchasing a neck-sizer.  I have been told that you can neck size with regular dies, something about putting a nickel between the die and the shellholder when setting up.  Is that true, is it safe?

[SHOOTALL]

When you set the die adjust it down a little at a time watching where it contacts the side of the neck. Adjust it down to where it just misses kissing the shoulder. I would add that the shell holder and die should match well. And most important trim all cases to same length . Clean all and make sure primer pocket is clean and primers seated correctly. I like to weigh each load of powder . And don't seat and crimp in same operation.
 I would add I seldom just neck size when I did it was with mixed results sometimes it might have increased accuracy other times maybe not . Fact is in either case it could have been other factors that caused the difference. But then I weigh each charge and many feel that is not needed and may be correct but why change what works ? I mention that because you will find what works for you and then form your own way and never vary.

[Oldshooter]

For a cartridge that you want to be as accurate as possible I also say weigh each  charge. I don't have one of the new digital measures, they might make it unnecessary, but I weigh all mine.

[SHOOTALL]

I use a balance scale the elec. ones are to slow.

[FPH]

If I'm loading for accuracy, I weigh each charge.  I also sort my brass by weight.

[STRANGE1]

Picked the rifle up today, and got the scope mounted.  Hopefully will be able to get it lined up tomorrow evening.  Would have to give Ruger about a 7 out of 10 for fit and finish.  Especially around the safety area.  I'm not going to say the bolt feels rough, but I can tell that it will feel much smoother after 100 or so rounds.  There are some edges to be worn off somewhere.  The trigger feels good, I don't have a gauge, but I don't think I would want it much lighter.  It will smooth out in time and be an excellent trigger.   

[STRANGE1]

I took the bolt out and looked down the barrel to bore sight it, and two shots later I was on the bullseye at 25 yards.  I moved the bench and the target so that I could get 100 yards and shot a group.  Shots 3, 4, and 5 out of the new gun printed right at .88" but they were way off the bullseye.  I let it sit for about 30 minutes, made the scope adjustment and shot another group.  That group was a tad over 2".  What the crap?   Maybe it was the cheap ammo.  I was shooting remington UMC 45gr hp's.   

[SHOOTALL]

It could be several things , clean it then shoot some more and break it in then see.

[STRANGE1]

The last group of the day, yesterday was 3.75" with remington 45gr hp.  Today I shot a group with some Winchester 55gr, waited at least a minute between shots, and got 2.65".   Two more groups with the remington 45gr were 2" and 2.7".

I shot a group with my Stevens 223 from the same position yesterday and today.  .85" and .75".  I'm beginning to think the ruger just doesn't like to shoot. 

[STRANGE1]

All of the groups with the 22-250 have 2 holes around .75" apart and one flyer.  But it isn't always a particular shot that flys out.  Sometimes it is the first shot, sometimes not.   

[STRANGE1]

Just shot some hornady 50gr shells. 4 shots into about 1". I'm pretty happy with that, considering I haven't had good results with other brands. But 3 of the 4 hornadys split the cases in the neck. Is this a sign of bad brass or a problem with the chamber?  Two cases had two splits, one was split in three places. 

[Oldshooter]

If any of the others didn't I 'd call Hornady and tell em what happened

[tobster]

Is expecting 1/2" groups from a $300.00 rifle a little bit optimistic?

[SHOOTALL]

Is expecting 1/2" groups from a $300.00 rifle a little bit optimistic?

at what distance ?

[Lloyd Smale]

especially if your relying on factory ammo and dont reload.

Is expecting 1/2" groups from a $300.00 rifle a little bit optimistic?

[STRANGE1]

Is expecting 1/2" groups from a $300.00 rifle a little bit optimistic?

Very much so.  I don't expect 1/2" groups (@ 100 yards) from this gun with any ammo, but I don't think a gun is worth keeping around if it won't shoot in the 1" range regularly. 

[SHOOTALL]

I have a mod 70 in 3006 that won't group better than 1.5 inch with most factory ammo. With hand loads I can get it around 1.25 inch with a very few bullets. It has killed a lot of deer . I think a lot of people get to worked up about groups on paper . I seldom have a rest in the field and many/most shots are off hand. I have a 2506 that will produce 5/8 to 1/2 groups all day long . In the field I really can't see where one shoots better than the other. Of course the deer don't have targets printed on them to measure or seldom is a second shot needed to tell group size .    And since most of the deer I shoot are moving how would you know ? 

[STRANGE1]

You have a very good point.  But if the gun isn't capable of reasonable accuracy off a bench, it will not be worth much in the field when you take away the rest and add in human error, which in my case can be quite a bit.  I like to shoot at drink bottles completely freehand as a measure of "hunting accuracy".