Author Topic: Ruger Trigger Break In Period? (Read 875 times)

Glanceblamm · « **on:** February 03, 2004, 06:27:39 AM »

Have heard alot of bad things here about the Ruger trigger.
I recieved a new SS Vaquero for CHRISTmas & love it to pieces. Have fired 90 Very Careful Shots , all at paper, and indeed noticed around 2 to 3 seconds of creep before the trigger breaks.

Have also done alot of dry firing on small objects at 30 to 50 yards. I get good sight picture, quickly pickup just a tad of slack, and snap it. It seems that it will be quite adequate for plinking and hunting, but lacking if I want same hole accuracy.

I think that this trigger will become slicker through usage. I will probably fire 750 to 1,000 rds through it before next Deer season in addition to dry firing. Am I Correct Or Should I Let The Smith Smooth It Up?

Castaway · « **Reply #1 on:** February 03, 2004, 07:12:10 AM »

No matter what you do, the trigger on a Black Hawk won't approach that of a finely tuned 1911. There are things to do to help wear it in faster. One technique is cock the hammer (empty of course) and place forward pressure on the hammer. Then pull the trigger. Do that a couple of times, no more. Then, remove the grip plate and lift one of the mousetrap springs off of the stud. There is still enough spring pressure to fire any primer on the market. If by chance, you do get a misfire, the obvious applies, put it back. Add a half drop of you favorite oil on the front of the hammer, let it work its way down towards the sear and you've done a poor man's trigger job. Working against you is the long drop the hammer has to make before it contacts the transfer bar, but you will be amazed at the improvements you've done yourself. If still not satisfied, there are drop in parts you can install yourself or you can go the smith route. If you do go with the smith and have to send the pistol back to Ruger for anything, they will replace the old parts with new ones before they send it back (voice of experience speaking here). One other thing, dry fire, dry fire, dry fire. You won't hurt it a bit.

KN · « **Reply #2 on:** February 03, 2004, 11:52:45 AM »

Castaway has it right, I have done all of these things to all of my SA Rugers and they all have a very satisfactory trigger. By the way, the spring you unhook is the trigger spring and not the hammer spring so there is no ill effect in firing. KN

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #3 on:** February 03, 2004, 12:17:48 PM »

the only way your going to get rid of creap is to have a gunsmith fix it. The trigger spring will lighten trigger pull but will do nothing for creap. Also be careful with the spring thing some of my guns would allow the hammer to fall with thumb pressure after doing it. Take a rubber mallet and give it a rap and see if it falls. I now have all my guns professionaly done. Its well worth the $75 that clemments or some other reputable gunsmith will charge. Im fortunate in that i have a friend who does mine for free. As far as a 1911 goes they can have wonderful trigger pulls if done corectly but i dont agree that a ruger single action cant be as good. Try mine most are around 2# and have absoultly no creap.

Paladin · « **Reply #4 on:** February 03, 2004, 02:04:17 PM »

I have a black hawk in 41 mag that brakes at 12oz and it's safe, but than it is a 3 screw. and yes I keep an empty cylinder under ths hammer. take the new model to someone who knows how to fix them. It's worth it

Castaway · « **Reply #5 on:** February 04, 2004, 01:02:29 AM »

Ooops! Thanks KN for setting me straight. I know the difference, but my head space and timing were evidently off.

HoCoMDHunter · « **Reply #6 on:** February 04, 2004, 06:50:39 AM »

Castaway, Thanks for those tips!! Out of curiosity, I removed both of the trigger springs off of their studs. Now the trigger is REALLY light. It seems to function fine. I am tempted to take it to the range and give it a try. Anyone tried this?

KN · « **Reply #7 on:** February 04, 2004, 11:42:52 AM »

I would think that removing both sides of the spring is not a good idea. The sear may not want to hold under that light of preasure. Meaning the pistol could drop the hammer when your not ready for it. Those consiquences could be SEVERE! KN

Buckskinner · « **Reply #8 on:** February 23, 2004, 10:59:02 AM »

The trigger return spring legs will interfer with the hammer spring if left suspended off the studs and could be damaged by firing. Think about going a different route for a better trigger.

Steve P · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2004, 03:04:42 PM »

You could cock the hammer and without releasing the trigger, just hit it with a mallet a few times. Or just take out all the springs and throw them away, what do you need them for anyway???

Don't mind my a$$inine sarcasm here. I just hate it when someone tells you to do something stupid to try and fix your gun. DO NOT force the hammer forward while pulling the trigger. Yes, it may do something, and it may feel different. But is NOT the right way to do a trigger job on a Blackhawk, Vaquero, or any other Ruger single action.

Learn how to take it appart, get some Arkansas hard stones, a dremel tool and learn how to do a trigger job correctly. If you have a little creep, remove a little of the bearing surface on the hammer. If it is a little rough, polish everything to a mirror finish and put some good (but small amount) of gun grease in there. I have two Rugers that break crisply, cleanly and very very predictably. Both are under 1 pound. You may not get it perfect first try, but that is why gunsmiths charge you $50 or so to do one. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get it just right.

Good luck and treat your gun properly, then your Grandchildren will be able to enjoy it also.

Steve

Glanceblamm · « **Reply #10 on:** February 24, 2004, 05:19:15 AM »

Thanks for all the reply's. It appears that the going to the gunsmith won.

I think that this trigger work will be worthwhile even for hunting. Have demonstrated this to myself as I have used the set trigger on my .50 T/C when I really needed to bear down on the sights and send a ball through a small gap on it's way to my deer.

Steve P
You intrigue me here as I have sucessfully repaired my H&R model 649. This involved changing out a broken lifter & worn out pawl. Took a few trys because of getting the spring lenght correct. Had nothing to lose here as the gun was broke to begin with and smith work was way above the guns value as this is an older piece. Was still a good acomplishment and a worthwhile experience.

The new Ruger is not broke so I will not try to fix it. (as the saying goes)
I will let the smith work on this as they do this everyday.
Again-Thanks

Steve P · « **Reply #11 on:** February 27, 2004, 03:13:31 PM »

If you did the H&R, you can do the Ruger. They are not hard. I have done my dads, my brothers, and about 10 of my own. Most are just cleaned up and set to a little crisper break for hunting and pllinking. Two are crisp, clean, and under a pound pull for silhouette.

Steve