R.E.A.L. CONICALS QUESTION ?

[lonewolf5347]

I purchase my REAL CONICAL from  a guy that cast them in FLA.,he has two different grades.He sell 5 BHN SOFTER grade @ 10 BHN HARD.
What is the difference between the two?

[Thomas Krupinski]

Not sure what kind of answer you are looking for here?  The 5 is softer than the 10, for my muzzleloaders where I will be pushing the projectile down the barrel from the bore I cast my REALS with soft lead which I guess is around 5, but never tested it.  

If you were loading them in a cartridge to be loaded fromt the breach, a harder bullet may be better, but don't really know.  For my smokeless cast bullets I generally use a wheelweight alloy which is much harder than the muzzleloading projectiles.

Is this what you are looking for?

[lonewolf5347]

I would think the harder the lead the less chance to mushroom on game if bone is hit,and using higher speed in m/l less chance to lead the barrel.I have tried his 10 BHN and have no problem in loading them down the barrel..
Below is the guy statement who cast them between the two choices soft or hard REALS
 
 
 
These hard REALS should leave you two holes, and assuming you go with your hunting (upper) load, and don't hit serious bone (if you are somone who subscribes to the "break both shoulders" school of thought, I would suggest our minie instead of the REAL or any other bullet style) you will be fine.

This BHN 10 REAL should completely penetrate, and leave an exit wound at the yardages you list and at the 90 grain load. Possibly even at the 80 grain load. My Hawken is listed for 90 max as well, but the difference in velocity has hit the law of diminishing returns by then (more powder for not much more umph).
 
The rifling is correct in both your rifles for the R.E.A.L.
 
The main difference in the two 50 cal REALS we make is that the pure lead soft one will mushroom out substantially on impact, and though you will get better than round ball penetration, you might hit one shoulder or nick a rib and a soft pure lead slug will DEFINITELY mushroom out a bit at that moment, starting to careen off target. Longer bullets can also have this problem, due to deflection altering their course.

Though it will tear up the medium through which it passes, the frontal resistance will stop the slug FAST, especially if it encounters another rib on the way out (your one-hole experience, likely). Worst of all, it makes a heart hit into a possible one lung hit if the angle is not good, again making it a one-hole, deer still running for a mile (or 2), nightmare tracking experience.

These harder slugs will not deform as easily, making an exit hole almost 70% more possible in a whitetail deer. They retain their weight well also, as they will not expand and fragment as easily (a round ball in pure lead can splatter flat open when it hits a solid bone).
 

[Thomas Krupinski]

Lee recommends that the REALs be case from soft lead.  That what I do, I can scratch the surface with my fingernail.   I haven't shot any elk with the REAL using soft lead, only with .54 TC Maxiballs that I had cast at 91 yards.  Not that much different from the .54 REAL once they leave the muzzle.  Complete pass through the rib cage on a large animal, 6x6.

What that fellow says is probably correct to some extent, but how much I am not sure and have no way to tell.  Actually I think you should try casting them yourself, it's easy and fun to do, and not much of an expensive project and you will alway have the product available to you when you need it.

[Cuts Crooked]

Is it jist me?

I'm reading this thread from the CAS forums, but it reads like it is from the Muzzleloading forums!?!?! :?:

[Thomas Krupinski]

Yea, I wondered that too, but I ain't going to hold it against it.

[Cuts Crooked]

Same here...no problem, I wuz jist puzzled is all. To add to the cornfusion, Ah knows of fellers wat has used REAL slugs in cartridge gunz in CAS! :eek: And I shoot .45 Maxi Balls in Colt 45s