Author Topic: 40/65 Marlin Lever Value and model? (Read 1271 times)

Shane in WI · « **on:** April 05, 2004, 05:01:55 AM »

I have a friend with a rifle for sale. It's marked 40/65 on the barrel, but can't find a model number. I assume it's under the scope mount. It's a modern gun with the cross bolt safety. It has no sights, blued with wood stocks, pistol grip and wears a 1/5x4 bushnell scope. Gun is 90% and includes dies, loading data, brass and bullets.
I can't seem to find this exact model in the blue book. At least not in this caliber. I would guess between 10 and 20 years old. Seems like a nice gun in an unusual caliber. Any idea on what the value should be?
Thanks,

John Traveler · « **Reply #1 on:** April 05, 2004, 05:20:28 AM »

Shane,

Your description sounds like a standard M1895 Marlin rebarrelled to .40-65 caliber.

The basic rifle sells new for about $400 today, and your custom re-barrel with dies, brass, and bullets should add about $200 to the value.

HTH
John

Shane in WI · « **Reply #2 on:** April 05, 2004, 05:54:53 AM »

Thanks John, is there a way to verify by looking at the rifle that it was rebarreled? Makes sence since there are no sights, and I can't find any model in the book that shows that caliber available in a modern rifle. The barrel only reads 40/65 on the left side. I would guess it hasn't been shot alot, but have no idea.
What would this caliber/gun be best suited for? Sure don't need another rifle, but seems like a nice setup.

John Traveler · « **Reply #3 on:** April 05, 2004, 06:53:04 AM »

Shane,

Most Marlin lever action rifles are proofmarked at the factory with a "JM" stamped over the chamber area.

The modern Marlins I've seen are proof stamped on the left side in 1/16" letters. Marlin factory barrel markings include address, model, caliber (left side), and WARNING markings (right side).

A re-barrel would not have this marking. Plus, all factory Marlin lever rifles have front and rear sights.

The .40-65 case is based on the .30-40 Krag case rim/head size. BPCR shooters like it for mild recoil and good wind bucking for long range.

Marlin started using the crossbolt safety in the late 1980's, I think. The M1895 action is based on the M336, but with ejection port and bolt face/extractor opened up for the big .45-70 case rim. If your ejection port can handle a factory .45-70 cartridge, that confirms it was rebarreled from an M1895 .45-70. If if doesn't it was probably made from an M1895 .444 Marlin.

HTH
John

jackfish · « **Reply #4 on:** April 05, 2004, 09:44:15 AM »

Check for a serial number on the tang. If it is a rebarreled 1895 at least you can determine when it was made.

Shane in WI · « **Reply #5 on:** April 05, 2004, 11:18:14 AM »

the Serial number is there. I'll start looking on the net for the date information. Thanks,

jackfish · « **Reply #6 on:** April 05, 2004, 06:19:18 PM »

Marlin 1895 manufactured 1972 to present
1972 first two digits B0
1973-2000 subtract first two digits from 2000 for date of manufacture
2001 to ? subtract first two digits from 2100 for date of manufacture

Shane in WI · « **Reply #7 on:** April 06, 2004, 03:48:55 AM »

Thank you for all the information. I looked briefly last night, but didn't find the site which gave serial number build dates for Marlin. I'm interested, just not sure what the guy wants for the rifle. Sounds like between $3-400 would be a good buy. Still don't have a use for the gun, but that hasn't stopped me with any of my other purchases.
I'll let you know what he sais.
Thanks again,

FAsmus · « **Reply #8 on:** April 11, 2004, 12:11:38 PM »

Shane,

I happen to own a M1895 Marlin that I rebarreled to 40/65 myself.

This is one the best rifles I own both for hunting and for long range match shooting.

I would be a VERY good idea to check the rate of twist in the custom barrel of any such rifle: If it is too slow, that is to say anything slower than 1:18 don't bother buying it since it won't stablize bullets heavy enough to be worth shooting.

I have lots of good loads for the 40/65 on the smokless Marlin action. It really performs well.

Good evening,
Forrest

Shane in WI · « **Reply #9 on:** April 12, 2004, 04:00:05 AM »

Is there anyway for me to check the twist by looking at it?
He's still trying to decide how much. He knows who would of done the work and he is a very reputable gun smith. If he wants to much, I'm not interested, but a good deal would be hard to pass up. Gun is in great shape.

John Traveler · « **Reply #10 on:** April 12, 2004, 04:16:02 AM »

Shane,

The easiest way to check your rifling twist is to insert a cleeaning rod tip with tight-fitting patch into the bore to the breech. Use a masking tape "flag" to indicate start point, and witdraw cleaning rod until the "flag" shows one full turn rotation. Measure between your start and stop points and that will show the twist rate.

John

FAsmus · « **Reply #11 on:** April 12, 2004, 06:52:18 AM »

Shane,

S: Is there anyway for me to check the twist by looking at it?

F: John has the right of it here; that is the way its done.

However, since the fellow you're talking to is a gunsmith ask him to measure it for you, preferably while you're there. And treat any talk about such things as: "Well, 1:32 seems to work fine for so-and-so" as strictly sales talk. You need a fairly fast twist to make a 40/65 perform.

Good morning,
Forrest

Shane in WI · « **Reply #12 on:** April 12, 2004, 07:04:41 AM »

More good information guys. Actually the seller isn't a smith, but he knows the smith who would of done the work to this gun through the past owner. Current owner is taking the gun to him to find out alittle more information.

marlinman93 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 17, 2004, 12:58:20 PM »

Shane,
Just a note here. Most rebarreled guns don't have any more value than the original guns. In fact, many have their value reduced when rebarreled wioth non-factory barrels. As the newer crossbolt safety guns are not considered collectable, it shouldn't hurt the value, but I would hesitate to add any value when rebarreled.
The question I always ask myself is...would I be able to sell it for what I'm paying for it?