Author Topic: regarding scope tracking (Read 939 times)

hardly · « **on:** March 11, 2004, 05:50:28 AM »

I read the post on this page regarding scope tracking and have a question. I recently put a Nikon Monarch 6.5x20 target dot on my Remington 22-250 VSSF. I am target shooting at ranges from 200 to 500 yards. I have a 200 yard zero and have been shooting longer distances using a ballistic chart and s.w.a.g. method. I would like to experiment with making scope adjustments for the longer shoots. Can I expect this scope to come back to my original zero once I start messing with the vertical adjustment. The gun will easily break eggs at 200 yards, so I am hesitant to change anything but I would like to learn how to do this stuff the right way.

Jose Grande · « **Reply #1 on:** March 11, 2004, 06:22:53 AM »

The best way I know of is to sight in at 100 yd. & work up a printed table from there at the various ranges. That's how we do it in NRA Hi-Power shooting. A ballistics program will get you close.

hardly · « **Reply #2 on:** March 11, 2004, 09:37:44 AM »

thanks Jose

Thats pretty much our plan, take the base ballistics program and fine tune it in the field. I'm just a little nervous when the chart says come up 46 clicks for 500 yards and wondering if the Nikon will go back to the 200 yard zero when I turn the elevation adjustment back to 0.

Jose Grande · « **Reply #3 on:** March 11, 2004, 08:53:58 PM »

Nikon has a rep for a good scope with repeatable adjustments. I've never used a Nikon, & so I don't know. I was hoping others would jump in. There are some guys that visit in here that use Nikon.

yankee · « **Reply #4 on:** March 12, 2004, 02:43:54 PM »

Yes the scope should return close to where you started. Two terms are "tracking" and "repeatability". Tracking is, does the scope move left 3 minutes and up 6 minutes when you adjust it so. Repeatability is, does it come back to your original zero when adjusted so. Don't be shy about taking it out and trying it. Shoot a three or five shot group at 100 or 200 yds then turn the elevation adjustment up 20 or 32 clicks. Shoot a group using the same point of aim as the first. You should see the second group move up the paper. Next turn the elevation back down to where you started and shoot another group on a second target. This third group should be at about the same place on the second target as your first group was on the first target. It should come back close to where you started. Ballistic programs vs. actual scope settings will vary because of differences of actual bullet velocities and what is printed on the box or reloading manual. If the program says to go up 8 minutes you should be within a minute or two. To be exact, test the rifle at the range you want to shoot and record your scope settings. If you change bullet weight, style or ammo maker it starts all over again.

davei · « **Reply #5 on:** March 20, 2004, 06:22:00 PM »

Hardly,

listen to Yankee. we have been doing exactly what you describe in smallbore and highpower rifle silhouette for about 30 years. a scope with quality tracking will come back to zero. we shoot 200, 300, 385, and 500 meters at a match. with sighting, practice, and match shots, we are cranking our scopes quite abit. not really a big deal.
dave

lilabner · « **Reply #6 on:** March 23, 2004, 04:45:41 AM »

I recently read somewhere on the Web that some shooters use an old artillery technique when changing scope zero. If they need a 20 click change, they make it but when returning to the previous setting, they would do 40 clicks, going past the original setting, then 20 back to the original zero. Supposed to make the return setting more precise. Anybody actually doing this? Is it necessary to get an accurate return setting?

redial · « **Reply #7 on:** March 23, 2004, 05:15:42 PM »

lilabner, the method you describe is often used with older iron sights (micrometer type) that may have developed some play or gotten sloppy. I've often used it for that. Up four = up six then back down two.

I sometimes use it with scopes if I'm adjusting the inner tube in a direction away from the tension spring. It gives the spring some room to catch up before the tube comes back to it, resuming proper tension. The big HOWEVER is that you really shouldn't have to do that anymore with modern scopes.

I like to "shoot the square" to test scope tracking. It's like yankee described but you create groups at the corners of a square, shooting at the same aiming point all the way thru - and hopefully ending up where you started!

Probably more'n you asked for, huh?

Cheers!

Redial

hardly · « **Reply #8 on:** March 30, 2004, 09:10:37 AM »

Thanks so much for the replys, we spent a weekend at the farm and did quite a bit of shooting between 200 and 500 yards. I ran the vertical adjustment up and down for two days and it came back to my 200 yard zero each time. We were using a ballistics chart I got off the internet and it was really close.