Can it be possible my .357 doesn't like shooting .357's,,and

[monson_magnum]

I picked up a Dan Wesson .357 pistol pack a few week's ago. I shot 50 round's of Winchester 125 gr .38's through it the first day I got it, and was very pleased at how accurate I was with my very first shot's. Now today I decided to step up to some .357's. I stuck with Winchester's. I shot 125gr .357's. The problem is I couldn't hit Sh*t. I thought it must have been due to the fact that I put the 8" barrel on there, and I must have not got the cylinder gap right or something. After 50 frustrating round's, I went back to the same .38's as before. My accuracy was again very pleasing. When I mentioned this to the guy running the range, he said some gun's just prefer one bullet over the other. I'm just having a hard time accepting the fact that my .357 doesn't like to shoot .357's. Any idea's what's going on here.

I do have a theory. I had a slight mechanical problem. After 2/3rd's of the way through the second box of amo, the the ejector rod came loose from the extractor. It was so loose that I could not close the cylinder. I became so worried that my new gun was broke, I had to leave. And beside's, I didn't have my glasses with me and couldn't see a dam thing to tell what was wrong. Once I got home, I could see that it just needed screwed back together.

So my theory is,, the powerfull .357 load's caused this to come undone, resulting in the cylinder resting in a reward position(it was hard to spin the cylinder, and it would hit the frame in the back until it was screwed back together) makeing the gap too big causing the poor accuracy.

So what's your guy's thought's. Does my theroy hold water, or is my gun junk and I'm doomed to shoot .38's through my .357. Oh ya, what's the proper method of getting the extractor tight enough and stay. I don't think I should use lock tite,,or should I. Thank's for any input. Cal

[Jerry Lester]

I can't help on the mechanics of your gun, because I've never messed around with one of those revolvers.

I can shed some light on the accuracy problem though.

Since you're shooting factory ammo, try going up to 158g loads. From my experience, if a 357 (rifle or pistol) is gonna act up as far as accuracy goes, it'll usually do it with light bullets in full house loads. I'm gonna go out on a limb here, and say if you'll go back to the store, and pick up a box of exactly the same ammo that you tried, but in 158g version, you'll be pleasantly surprised with the results.

The 158g factory loads will likely be full house loads, but the heavier bullets tend to shoot better at these higher pressures than the light bullets. My 357 Blackhawk is a good example. It'll shoot great with nearly any 125g bullet as long as I'm loading them a little on the mild side. As soon as I bump a 125g bullet load up to any where near factory performance, the accuracy either slacks off, or goes completely to pot. The same gun though, will shoot full house 140g or heavier bullet loads great.

[HAMMERHEAD]

I'll agree with Jerry. On my Python the same thing happened (although I didn't have accuracy problems). I took the ejector rod completely out and applied loctite. Now it has stayed put. In my experience with the .357 mag, the heavier the bullet, the better the accuracy. Pythons have a twist rate of 1:14". It shoots extremely well with 180 grain bullets. S&W revolvers have a twist rate of 1:17.5"(I think) and will shoot well with lighter bullets. I would try some heavy bullets as I believe DW's have a fast twist like the Colts and in general will do better with heavy bullets. I've gotten <2" groups, benchrest-red dot scope, at 50 yards with Winchester premium 180 Nosler partition and Corbon 180gr softpoint loads. DW's were built for the siluette (sp?) game, and will probably exell with heavy bullets.
P.S. After thinking about it some more, I don't think the ejector rod would effect accuracy. Check DW's webite and see what the twist rate is. My Python shoots .38's very well, but doesn't like light (125) .357's at all. Heavy bullets is where it's at! Besides, heavy bullets carry their energy much better at long ranges than light ones. They are also more pleasant to shoot because they have less muzzle blast/flash than light ones. Remington makes an affordable 180 grain load, i forget if it's a JHP or a JSP, but it should do well in a DW. Give DW a call and see what they say about your ejector rod, you might be suprised with good customer service.

[securitysix]

FWIW, my Ruger KGP-161 doesn't like any bullets lighter than 140 grains.  If I shoot 140 gr. bullets or higher, it will hold groups pretty well.  

Look for some factory ammo with heavier bullets, as suggested.  If you're willing to handload, try Speer's 140 gr. JHP, 146 gr. JHP-SWC (my GP LOVES this bullet), and any 158 gr. bullet.

[Flint]

A faster spin rate affects the accuracy more at higher velocity, the lighter, shorter bullet is overspun and does not behave.  Look at muzzle-loaders, and you see very slow twist, 1 turn in 36, for instance, for a round ball.  A round ball is not accurate at 1:18, and the longer, heavy bullet is not accurate at 1:36 or 1:48.

[TOGO]

I think the problem wasn't the ammo, but the fact you left your glasses at home :-D  Seriously, I wouldn't worry too much until you try some heavier weight bullets, most firearms I have owned and still own like one bullet over another. Goodluck.

[unspellable]

Before you worry about any theories, make shure the barrel and ejector are properly installed (Barrel nut tight, etc.) and you are free of any leading or fouling.

I recently acquired a used Taurus Raging Bull in 45 Colt.  Went to the range and couldn't load it.  Went home and found the area in the chambers between the case mouth and the throat had a heavy lead build up.  Picked at it with a toothpick and the lead came out in chunks.  Once cleaned up all was well.

[monson_magnum]

Thank's for the replie's. I'll have to see what the hevier bullet will do, then I'll get worried. :lol:

[Badnews Bob]

Yep looks like we all agree heavy bullets, My GP 100 6" loves anything 158 up, but it'll put .38 wadcutters in the same hole, even there it likes 148 grainers.

[1911crazy]

Our point of aim has to be different with light loads and magnum loads. With magnum loads I aim lower mainly because the gun jumps up quicker with the more powerful rounds.  I dusted off my 44mag and took it to the range a month ago and using 240gr.SWC's I was shooting bulleyes aiming dead on then i tried 200gr HP's and had the same results as you did but by going to the 6 o'clock on my point of aim(lower) it cleared up the problem by it still wasn't as accurate as the lead I did improve on hitting the center of the target much better.  Now it a matter of shooting more often to get better.                                             BigBill

[Lone Star]

The problem is I couldn't hit Sh*t. ....After 50 frustrating round's, I went back to the same .38's as before. My accuracy was again very pleasing.

No one seems to have asked, what do you mean by "I couldn't hit S**t"?  Does this mean that your grouping was much larger than with the .38 loads, or does it mean that the groups did not hit your point of aim?  If the latter then all is normal because high velocity ammo will not usually shoot to the same point of aim, as pointed out above.

However, if the size of your groups is much larger with the .357 load than with the .38 load, there are two obvious possibilities.  One, the revolver just "prefers" heavier bullets, or perhaps just a change to a different brand of 125s.  Second, the increased recoil and report of the .357 could be causing the shooter to flinch; this would cause large grouping and a different point of aim.  I don't know the shooter so I'm not saying that the shooter is at fault, but it is a possibility.  Have another shooter of known ability shoot the revolver and see what the results are.  Dan Wessons are usually quite accurate, but ammo preference or the occasional problematic firearm could also explain the problem....once we know for certain whether the problem is poor grouping or a different point of impact.

[Badnews Bob]

Come on man, are you saying that a measly 18" jump up in the air, a sharp very loud thundering report, and a three foot fireball would make someone maybe flinch a little? :shock: ......Well that might have someting to do with it, maybe.

[monson_magnum]

The problem is I couldn't hit Sh*t. ....After 50 frustrating round's, I went back to the same .38's as before. My accuracy was again very pleasing.

No one seems to have asked, what do you mean by "I couldn't hit S**t"?  Does this mean that your grouping was much larger than with the .38 loads, or does it mean that the groups did not hit your point of aim?  If the latter then all is normal because high velocity ammo will not usually shoot to the same point of aim, as pointed out above.

My hit's were scattered about 6" and low. Plus my hand was sweaty on the small combat grip that I now think is too small, so yes, the flame thrower MAY have made me flinch. :oops:

I've put the factory grip back on to see if that help's. Next step is to try the heavier bullet's.

Now for the new delima. I was already going to get a reloader, so I went ahead with that. Now I have to decide if I want to say with .38's, or jump up to the .357's. Truthfully I'm only shooting paper target's, so I don't mind the .38's. However,,,,,,,I just gotsta know. Was it the bullet's, or was it me. I hate to buy everything for .357 and not shoot it that much. I don't know wether to set up for .357 or .38. I guess if I could find a light  (economical) .357 load, that would be ok as long as it was accurate. Any recomendation's on that. Thank's, Cal

[HAMMERHEAD]

If you're going to handload for a .357 revolver, everythings the same exept for the brass. Go for the.357 brass. You can still do light loads, it's easier to clean the gun(.38's will 'ring' the chamber with fouling, preventing mags from being loaded). And gradually your loads can be increased to match your recoil tolerance. A nice set of carbide dies will load both calibers.

[Bullseye]

Load for the Mag and use a light load like a 180 gr with the lowest charge of 2400 listed in the manual or a 158 gr. with the lowest charge of IMR 4227 listed in the manual.  The 4227 has much less recoil and blast than usual and may help your shooting.

[Jerry Lester]

Go with 357 brass, and like the others said, stay with light loads if recoil is a factor.

I shoot 357s all the time, but I mostly only shoot full powered stuff when deer season gets close. After it ends, it's right back to my mild loads.

I guess my all time favorite is a 125g Remington SP or HP, with CCI 550 primers, and 7.5g of Unique. This load has been extremely accurate in several revolvers, and rifles I've tried it in. It gives me around 1500 fps in an 1894C Marlin, and about 1200 fps in my 6.5" Blackhawk. It's easy on the hands, as well as a lot quieter than full house stuff, and thumps game up to about 45 lbs or so in weight very well.