Author Topic: working on trigger pull (Read 828 times)

Badnews Bob · « **on:** March 18, 2004, 09:47:37 PM »

I dove in and adjusted the trigger on my Max project and it went mostly ok I learned one thing the hard way.... Don't drive out the pin for the transfer bar. It takes three hands and a pet monkey to get them back in right and I don't have a pet monkey. :shock: And I also learned that is very easy to take to much off, Silver V is right when he says to check it often. I got mine a little to lite maybe I'll have to shoot it to be sure, but if you look at it wrong it'll go off. Now a question. Are all the parts the same in a SB2 and a sportster frame? I wouldn't mind such a lite pull in my .22, so can I swap hammers and maybe not get the other so lite for my Max?
I have three more to do now and will be buying a .44 or .45-70 soon so I get to practice triggers alot, If he likes it I'll probably do Haywoods also, He'll play with scope mounts and the like but don't like to play with the innards. It wasn't hard to do and I would recommend it to anyone who has any basic skills. Later.

Big Blue · « **Reply #1 on:** March 19, 2004, 02:22:37 PM »

BB,
I've done the triggers on both my 7mm-08, and the .223. I had a problem with the 7mm-08. When I put the trigger group back in, thinking all went well, the hammer wouldn't lock up. When I took it apart again, I found that the hook on the hammer, had snapped off! I was able to reshape it with a dremel tool, but also ordered a new one from Numrich Arms. The new hammer was listed as being for a SB-1, and it not only fit well, it also has a different hammer angle that allows the scope to be mounted lower. I can't say that I know if the sporsters internals are the same, but the SB-1 parts work well. BTW- The trigger on my .223 needs a strong thought to fire. It came out even better than I could hope for. I did make sure it wouldn't fire if it got jostled a little, by banging hard on the rifle with my hand. I have a book somewhere on dismantling rifles, I'll dig it up and see if the two rifles, SB-1 and Sportster, are listed together for dismantling.
Don

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #2 on:** March 19, 2004, 08:04:27 PM »

Thanks Don I already have the sporster apart and everything looks the same, I am gonna work it this weekend and after I shoot the max on Monday I'll switch it out. I also have a .243 and a .38-55 to work so I can figure out where I want them sooner or later. They are easy to do and I really injoy this kind of tinkering.

perklo · « **Reply #3 on:** March 28, 2004, 04:26:03 AM »

Just FYI - Almost all internal parts are the same on current production rifles/shotguns.

Except for firing pins and their matching springs... According to H&R 1871 there are up to FOUR current firing pins and you have to tell them serial number and caliber to get the right pin and spring.

There is a set for rimfires, two (I think based on protrusion) for centerfire rifles and one for shotguns.

They use the shotgun one in the Huntsman, I guess, and it works when you add a muzzleloader barrel to a center fire frame, so there is some compatibility.

- perklo :wink:

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #4 on:** March 28, 2004, 04:33:36 PM »

Thanks fellers, I worked two more and I think I'm gettin the hang of it. They are lite but go bang when you pull the go lever. the .357 is just a little to lite don't always go bang. If you sneak up on it like your bench shooting the hammer drops but I guess its not working the transfer bar, However if you give it a nice tug like you were hunting it works fine. I think I'll order some new hammers so I can mess up some more. Aint this a hoot. :grin: