Need reloading advice

[Mayor of Hobbs Knob]

I'm heading out tomorrow to pick up beginning stuff for reloading.  Been putting it off for years.  Time to straightnen out!  I know nothing about powder.  I'll be loading pretty standard stuff--.222, 7-30, .256WM, .30-30, .35 Rem., .38 spl., etc.  What is a good versitile powder to start with?  Or do I need several?  I'm probably going to go with the Lee Anniversary Kit as a good way to start out until I know enough to be really stupid!  Thanks for the reccomendations.

[Bob C]

For .222, 30/30, and .35 Remington, either IMR 4198 or H-4198 should work fairly well.  

IMR 4895 or H-4895 will do OK for the 7-30, 30/30, and .35 Remington.

RE-7 is also a possibility for the above.

For the .38 Special, Unique is OK with any bullet weight.

Your best bet is to get one or two reloading manuals from a major company, and research the bullet weights and calibers you're considering. From that you can make a more informed decision about what powders you'll need.

[Javelina]

Hello Mayor,

I agree with Bob C, you should have at least two current MAJOR load manuals to work from.  My advice would be to read the "How To" portion very carefully.  Sierra, Hornady and Nosler are the ones I use the most and you can't go wrong by having all three and reading the "How To" sections in all of them.

An online resource that's pretty good is www.hodgdon.com, they have online loading data that you can work from if you use Hodgdon powders (NEVER substitute data developed with one powder when using another powder).  Just make sure that you start at no higher than low to mid-range charges when you're getting your reloading feet wet, then raise the powder charges gradually watching carefully for any pressure signs and stop when you see any of them.  Be very careful with overall cartridge length measurements and don't exceed maximum lengths when you are a beginner.  Use a good set of calipers to measure with - they are worth the money.

A good chronograph is another important tool to help you in your load development - if you don't have one, you might buddy-up with an experienced and safe reloader who does have one, also, you might ask for some guidance early on with the process to make sure you stay safe and get off on the right foot.

The only way you can be truly "stupid" as you put it, is when you think you know everything and don't need to be careful during the reloading process.  Don't become a statistic, safe reloading is fun and economical, "stupid" reloading can be deadly to you and those around you.  

Good luck with your reloading, it's a great hobby I have enjoyed for years and I know you'll end up with some great ammunition.  Don't fall for that all stuff about reloading saving money though - you'll just be shooting more!   :grin:

Safe and good shooting to you!  

Javelina

[Possum]

I first want to express I AM NOT AN EXPERT.  With that being said, I wanted to originally load 3-4 different calibers with one powder for my Contender & Encore.  I chose H380 to start with and ended up loading 5 calibers with it.  They are .250 Sav., .270, 30.06, .35 Rem., and 30-30.  I am getting hunting accuracy from the .250, .270(rifle), 30.06(rifle), .35 and 30-30.  I had to play with the bullet weights and most will shoot fine at 100 yds.  The exception was the 30.06 15" Encore.  I think I will have to go to  a different powder with that one.  It is fine in the rifle version, but not as accurate in the pistol.  The .35Rem, 270 rifle, and .250 Encore rifle do well with this powder.  The weakest is the 30-30 and 30.06 pistol.

The thing to remember is every gun is different and to work up SLOW.  What works for me may not work in your guns.  Also, what I deem as accuracy, others may not be satisfied with.  I have learned there are many variables that play into powder selection.

[Mayor of Hobbs Knob]

Thanks for the input.  I've also spent some time at the reloading forum and have changed my plans slightly.  I think I'll buy myself a couple good reloading manuals and spend some time with them before I buy any equipment or components.  I've been keeping a list of information from everyone and it's beginning to come together.  Think some extra time educationing myself will bring all these ideas together and will pay off in the end by making my activity safer, cheaper, and more successful.  Thanks again for your help!

Mayor

[jamie]

When I first started reloading I was a bit scared so things were not smooth and I had to keep doing steps over and over.  It is in fact not hard at all nor anything to be scared of IF you learn the info in the how to sections and get a routine down.  Once you get it don't wander from it.  Like I said it is not a difficult task but pay attention to what you are doing and check your powder drops.  Have fun.

Oh, the first one I loaded for was a 300 winmag and I was almost certain that bolt was come back and stick in my head whenever I pulled the trigger the first time.  Well, it didn't, but me being so worried about that I forgot about my eye relief and got smacked by the scope.

[haroldclark]

Of all the Manuals suggested, no one mentioned the Lyman Reloading Handbook.  I have been reloading for several decades and still going strong.  In my book case there are 5 reloading manuals and 4 of them are versions of the Lyman Reloading Handbook from 30 years ago to date.  The other one is an Old RCBS cast bullet book.

The Lyman Manuals contain data for jacketed and cast bullets with recommended accuracy loads for both.  You can bet on the recommendations.

I do have Sierra's handbook on my computer along with Quickload software and Hodgdon's Blast program too.

Have fun and lots of luck.

Harold Clark

[Hopalong7]

Hi Mayor,  Glad to see you getting to reloading.  You've already gotten some good advice.  I heartily concur with reading loading manuals first.  My $0.02 worth is to pick out one caliber and start with it only until you get your feet wet  I would suggest the 38Spl first ( yea, I know it's the one that ammo is most readily available for ) because its the easiest to load.  If you do start there opt for the carbide dies.  No contest here, they cost a little more but they are more than worth it.  They elimanate the need to lube cases entirely on straight wall cased rounds.  The deadliest sin you can commit is double charging a case.  This can destroy your gun and you!  Doing this is not possible with most of your calibers...i.e. one charge of powder is all the case will hold, BUT it is with the .38Spl,especially with light target loads.  You're putting a very small charge into a relatively large case.  You must develope a procedure that will insure that you don't allow this to happen.
GOOD SHOOTIN', Walt  :-D  :-D  :-D

[Mayor of Hobbs Knob]

Good to hear from you, Walt.  Got a Lyman book and the T/C loading manual yesterday.  Was thinking along the lines of starting with one caliber.  Maybe the .222 since this is one of my favorites, but have been shooting a lot of .38 spl.  Your barrel is doing a great job!  But, as you say, .38 ammo  is almost cheaper to buy.  I'm going to spend the next month aggressively looking for a used outfit.  If I can't turn something up I'll have to buy a new set.  I think I could get much more for my money if I bought a good used outfit.  Must be a lot of stuff collecting dust in people's garages.  Hey, don't forget to send that dasta for the 7-30.  I haven't found a scope for it yet, so still haven't tried it.  I leave for the woods tomorrow so will be off the web for at least two weeks when we make a mail run.   --The Mayor--