Raynor's trigger hone?

[quickdtoo]

Anyone done this yet to their Handi? I just did my .204 ruger frame, did very little honing using a ceramic stone, read extremely fine, only polished the critical areas as instructed and shortened the return spring not as much as instructed and ended up with a 2.5 lb trigger which according to Perklo is too light. It did pass all of Perklo's tests, though. Since this is basically a bench gun, I'll probably leave it alone as long as it doesn't get any lighter. Any thoughts?

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=26200

[Fred M]

quickdtoo.
2.5 Lbs is not anywhere near too light. I did mine at 24oz and it wore in at 16oz. It is about as good a trigger as you want. The return spring has to be very light for this trigger weight to asure a comlete trigger follow through. But there is no problem. What is that Perklo test. Don't remember seeing it.

I had quite a discussion with Perklo about the 8oz wear in. He did not have one going that much down. But simply said if I thought it was too light to get a new sear and hammer. Even though they are cheap I see no need for it.

All my hunting rifles have 24oz triggers except the Ruger #1 it is 28oz.
I just installed a Mould Speed lock Hammer and spring kit. It is a beauty, very fast lock time and no over travel. Fred M.

[quickdtoo]

Fred, I like light triggers too, but according to a lot of what I've read on the NEF triggers, 2.75lbs is the lowest they should be set at. The tests are the usual bump test, functioning of the transfer bar mechanism and such. They're at the end of part II of the .pdf downloads.  thx

http://www.perkloafm.com/download.html

[Fred M]

quickdtoo.
Interesting, I bumped the heck out of the cocked rifle, in all directions, pushed on the hammer as hard as I can. I slapped the side of the stock with a rubber mallet. The hammer spring is very strong and that is good.

There was no way that my 1 lbs trigger would let go,  except by pulling the trigger. The transfer bar works well too because the rifle will not fire a round without the follow through. Not will it fire when you let go of the hammer without pulling the trigger.  I tried it with primed cases, no intent in the primer. So how much safer is safe?

Besides I fired quite a bunch of loads with that setup, without misfires or what have you. But had to train myself to follow through with the trigger. This is stupid and against all good trigger control principals.
With all other rifles I have, there is no trigger over travel nor follow through.

I had not planed on a 1lbs trigger it just happened and I don't know how I lost the 8oz over a time, only a few guesses. With rounded sear edges and a heavy bump perhaps the trigger could let go?

Personally I don't believe in that silly transfer bar, a rebounding hammer with a half cock is much simpler and just as safe. The biggest safety itself is the exposed hammer. Well there is just no way you can make a gun totally idiot proof and a miss fire could create a hang fire, they can be bad news.

Our police has the 40 cal Glock pistol the safest handgun made but still they keep shooting themselves in the leg when doing fast draw combat shooting. The cocked and locked Mod 1911 45 was deemed not save and required training. Now they have a save Glock that any can shoot fast without training. Hence the hole in the foot.  Fred M.

[quickdtoo]

Thanks Fred, I'll keep an eye on it if it gets too light. Since it's a hammer gun, it's kind of a moot point, actually. It's not like a bolt gun where the rifle is always cocked and the safety is the only thing preventing a hammer fall.   Tim

[oneredbarn]

Fred M       How fast does your police get the second shot off in there combat training after the shot to the leg?