Author Topic: cleaning and perserving bolsters (Read 680 times)

buttplate · « **on:** May 31, 2004, 05:12:43 PM »

After cleaning my barrel with hot soapy water and drying I always run some kind of natural preservative down the barrel to protect it from rust. When it comes to the bolster I'm not really sure what to do since I can't get a patch or anything in it to give it a good coating. So far I've been getting by using wd-40 to spray in where I can't reach. I was wondering how some of you fellas tackle this problem especially, those using borebutter or some type of the thicker types of bore swabs.

lostid · « **Reply #1 on:** June 01, 2004, 08:05:42 PM »

welcome to the site buttplate,,nobody answered yet huh? well ok I'll try.

Seem's some of us are a bit confused as to what yer callin a bolster. That be the "pan" part of the flint lock right? Some folks call a cap lock "drum" a bolster too,,depends on what part of the country ya hail from I guess

What's the make and model of yer gun? If ye know that much then we can really help! :lol: Remember,, the only dumb question asked is the one that ain't asked!! it's just a web site anyways!

We'er pullin for ya,,we'er all in this together :-D :-D

buttplate · « **Reply #2 on:** June 02, 2004, 12:59:01 PM »

Hi,

Drum might be a better description. I have several percusion side locks such as a Traditions 50cal. Calbel's hawken 50, CVA 36 and a Lyman trade rifle. I used to have a Lyman gpr but sold it. Still regreting that!
Anyway they range from the round cylinder type like the Tradtion and CVA to the snail type used on the Lyman. You can screw out the nipple and clean out screw but there really isn't room enough to reach in there to swab it with a good coating of borebutter or oil unless you just turn it over and feel it up. I've been blasting it with wd-40. Just a qick shot in the clean out hole and then it runs back out the clean out and nipple hole so I'm asuming it coverd the whole inside. I know a lot of folks say not to use oil, only natural products but I can't figue out how to get the natural stuff in there (without packing it full) and being sure I didn't miss a spot.

crow_feather · « **Reply #3 on:** June 02, 2004, 03:46:13 PM »

buttplate,

Please let me be the second person to welcome you to the site.
I clean my rifles with very hot water which makes the barrel very hot. After drying the bore quickly with paper towels (because it absorbs moisture extremely well) I place a glob of T/C bore butter or crisco on my finger and mash it in the nipple hole. (I don't mess with the clean out screw much) The lube melts and flows into the recesses. If I felt that I had to spray something into that area, I would probably spray a natural oil using a syringe.

c f

lostid · « **Reply #4 on:** June 02, 2004, 07:32:10 PM »

Oh! That kind of bolster

,,

That's what I got too,,sidelock cappers..I use pipe cleaners,,ya know? Them fuzzy little wire things smokers use to clean tobacco pipes? Their flexible,,you can cut'm with a scissors,,and the fuzzy part holds lube for reaching those hard to get places. Cheap and disposable too,,$2 at any smoke shop or drug store gets ya a bunch.

I guess I don't worry too much,,after cleaning and lubing the bore proper,,I remove the clean-out screw and run a lubed pipe cleaner in that hole as far as it goes,,then I just allow the viscosity of lubrication to cover the rest,,(lube flows!). I usually use a rubbing alcohol bath after water cleaning to help remove moisture,,then use LPSII or Hoppes#9 for long term storage.
I don't want to turn this into a "lube" story but I stopped useing BB,and found out years back that WD-40 causes rust.

I know I'm using the dreaded oil product on my BP guns but I remove all the oils before shooting with "break cleaner". I'm the kinda guy that cleans a gun till a white patch comes back white.(is there another way?)

I'll go to a weekend vous', or on a hunting trip and just do "field" cleaning the whole weekend and shoot just fine,,but when I come back to the cabin I'll spend some time and do a thorough job of it.

buttplate · « **Reply #5 on:** June 06, 2004, 04:32:55 PM »

Hi folks,

Your replies gave me food for thought. I went out and got some pipe cleaners and they work great. Got to reading my Lyman manual again and they mention using pipe cleaners, guess I miss that on the last read. Thanks a heap!

Ladobe · « **Reply #6 on:** June 07, 2004, 01:23:16 PM »

Being on the desert of the arid southwest, we do things a bit difference I guess, but what works for us is using Napa #13 Water Pump Lube (or Gunk brand) to clean everything, and as our patch lube. Its real easy to get into everything with this milky liquid, including the drum or touch holes, and leaves behind plenty of protection from rust. It is a might hard to regulate as a patch lube because its water soluable and evaporates (keep everything equal), but sure saves on cleanup time.
FFT.
Ladobe :bye: