357 mag OAL

[rmtaylor]

I got to shoot my 357 mag yesterday. 158 gr Hornady XTP HP, Starline Brass, CCI small pistol Mag primers and a variety of loads using H110 powder. Very promising!!. I loaded all of them at 1.6 oal. I used the Stoney Point OAL gauges to check OAL for my 223, 270, and 45-70. I thought some of the once fired brass might make the brass loose enough to easily slide a bullet into so I could chamber a round to check but it did not do this. What is the beat way to check the optimum OAL?

Richard

[safetysheriff]

Before going too far with this, remember that you are not shooting competiton-grade projectiles.    If you were shooting match-grade bullets I'd say use the Stoney Pointe gauge and a bullet comparator......but you do not have enough consistency with these bullets (I don't think) to get real value out of this excercise.    I shoot various Hornady spire points in handloads and see a fair variation among them when comparing OAL's.    I use Hornady dies, mostly, and mark the bullet-seating adjustment knob for its relation to a given, constant point on the top of the press.    Within 1/4 turn of that knob in either direction I hope to find a sweet spot with any bullet that has a cannelure....if my rifle likes that bullet!    

I'd stick with the Hornady xtp's, but vary charge weights by up to maybe a total range of 10%, where allowed, to see how accuracy varies.    I'd crimp all bullets firmly so that consistent ignition is assured.

I'd vary my primers by shooting both Win Small Rifle and Rem' 7 1/2 BR small rifle primers.    But, when changing primers I'd go back to my starting charge weights once again.    Only change one variable at a time: brass, bullets, powder, primer, seating depth.    

Pray for help with your project, as well.    The .357 mag' is a good deer caliber out of a rifle!    You should have fun with it.

[Mitch in MI]

I don't know what the "best way" is, but I can tell you what I did with my 30-30 handi.

I dropped a bullet in the chamber, used the depth gage on my caliper to measure the distance from the back of the chamber to the back of the bullet. I then measured the length of the bullet and added it to the first measurement. The sum is the overall length of a cartridge which will allow that particular bullet to just touch the rifling.

Calipers are pretty cheap these days, nobody should reload without them:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42656

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5647

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47257

[rmtaylor]

Thanks for the replies.

Stoney Point does not make the special brass that you use with the OAL gauge for the 357.

I do have all the measuring tools I need so I will try your Idea Mitch.

Thanks,

Richard

[Paul5388]

Richard,

I load 250 gr Beartooth cast gas checked bullets in .357 brass and never touch the rifling.  I also use .360 DW brass with the same bullets and might be able to touch the rifling if I loaded out of the crimping groove.

There are many guns that don't really like to be loaded that far out, even with long throats.  In fact, my .357 barrel will shoot .38 Specials as good as it will shoot .360 DW's.

I shot some 158 gr XTP-HP's today at 50 yards and got a 1.5" group at 1852 fps (that's a 50% increase in velocity compared to a 6" Security Six with the same loads).  I have gotten as little as .693" with those 250 gr cast bullets at the same range.  My barrel seems to prefer the heavier bullets and slower velocities.

[rmtaylor]

Paul,

Your right....The throat is so long there is no way I will get there. 2.034 in from the rifling. Brass and bullet together is 1.95 total before seating the bullet.

I may try some of the 360 dw brass for  kicks.


Richard