Author Topic: Canine trap chain set up  (Read 681 times)

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Offline Mallard

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Canine trap chain set up
« on: June 22, 2004, 06:27:26 AM »
I know, I know.....this topic come up every other month. Just for simplicity sake I'm hoping for replies that simply state length, # swivels, shock spring or not, and chain position (center or end)  I know some use drags, but I'm just looking for staked trap set ups.

I'm on the fence with chain length and shock springs, but as of now run 12" #3 chain with 3 swivels and a shock spring and off the center of the trap.
Proud member NTA, MTA, NRA, DU and DW

Offline 17HMR

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Canine trap chain set up
« Reply #1 on: June 22, 2004, 07:44:56 AM »
I leave trap chain attached at side 1 link- swivel-3links-swivel -4links-swivel, then double stake swivel or double 1/8 cable loop, it will be the first year on the cable loop any thoughts on the cable loop system? Jeff

Offline Dave Lyons

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Canine trap chain set up
« Reply #2 on: June 22, 2004, 07:46:01 AM »
Bill,

You hit the canine trappers big fight here.  I have both of BW's Video and he runs a very short chain.  I believe it is like 2 links swivel two links then stake.

I personally have run every length possible.  I have a few set up with 24 inches of chain and swivels to my norm of 12-18 inches of chain and swivels.  I have a lot of swivels one at the trap 4 links another swivel 4 links another swivel two links then stake swivel.

But there are far better trappers then I in here so it will be nice to see what other guys run.

Dave
MTA District 8 Director

Offline skidway

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Canine trap chain set up
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2004, 01:18:56 PM »
Chain centered with a length of 16-18" including 3 swivels. Never found a need for a shock spring.

Offline trappenjoe

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Canine trap chain set up
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2004, 02:29:56 PM »
I LIKE A SHORT CHAIN , 3 SWIVELS,TIED IN THE MIDDLE .  THE PURPOSE
IS TO NOT LET THE YOTE JERK SO HARD, AND THE CENTER TIE , KEEPS THE FOOT IN THE CENTER , EXSPECIALY ON A SPINNING FOX . MY
STAKES ARE 12 TO 16 INCHES LONG . JUST DEPENDS ON THE GROUND.
LITTLE JOE

Offline jim-NE

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Canine trap chain set up
« Reply #5 on: June 22, 2004, 06:08:31 PM »
I like a short chain too. All of my coyote traps have a quick link around the trap base with the threaded sleeve of the quick link spot welded shut, then a 4-way universal swivel, then no more than 3" of welded kinkless chain, then another universal swivel. I don't have more than 10" of chain/swivels on any of my predator traps. For anchors I use either 20" length of 3/32" cable with an earth anchor, or I attach a butterfly style double stake swivel and cross stake with 24" stakes made from 1/2" rebar and washers welded just below the top 1/2" stake end.
Probably more overkill for coyotes than needed, but seems to help keep the two-legged predators from walking off with my traps anyway.

The short length of chain really seems to keep the coyote from getting a decent lunge. They can really build up some momentum on a long chain and then they hit the end of the chain with much more gusto.

Best combo I've found that works for me anyway is a lot of swivels and a very short overall chain length, with a stout anchoring system. I also run a lot of dirt sets for coons, using #11s at double dirtholes loaded with fish and red fox gland lure. I've held a lot of coyotes in those little #11s too, and even a couple of cats. Yes, that's way too small a trap to use specifically for either animal, but I also don't think any of them would have been there waiting for me the next day if I had used long chains either.

The only time I've ever ran long chains on my traps was when I was using some grapples on coon sets in a dry creek bed. Those were of course very long chains (about 7') made from odds and ends lengths cut from the original longer chains on my new predator traps.