Do you do rehab on old molds?

[grendel]

Just finished a 5+ hour casting session this evening and I want to thank you for the NEW mold you made me.  300g .453 LFN PB.  I think that after heating it up and lubing it per your instructions it started dropping nice bullets on the 2nd go around, I was using 2 other molds, one was my LBT 220g .452 and the other was (looking at ground and scuffing his toe a bit) a Lee 6 gang 255g .429".  It was dropping some pretty bullets, I'll try and get another heat going tomorrow evening.  Then come Sunday I'll cull the batch and load some up.
 
This now brings up the subject of this message.  My old 220 LFN looks like it could use some rehab.  Bullets stick in it when they don't in the new mold and I often get some finning on the bases.  In looking at the top of the mold I find that some of the air venting ridges are getting worn away.  I am sure it is 1) causing the problem and 2) probably my fault.  But can the mold be "Dressed up" to cast better again?
 
Bullets cast at 750 to 775F by my Thermometer.  Using a bottom pore ladel.
 
Thanks
 
Grendel
 
Molon Labe

[Dusty Miller]

I've got the same problem with an LBT mold that I bought a few years ago and didn't do much of a job of keeping up on the lubrication.  I'd like to get the same service if it is available.

[Veral]

It's a bit scary to say yes, as I may get deluged!   But yes I can refurbish most worn molds.   The only way I can do it profitably is for you to send it in with $30 for the repair, and and $6.30 return postage if one or two molds, $6.90 for 3 or 4 molds, $7.50 for any amount over 4.  If I cannot do it for that much I'll inform you as to how much more, or let you know if I consider it not worth repairing.  In which case I'll refund you the repair cost, deducting a $10 inspection cost.

But try your self first.  After all LBT means Lead Bullet Technology, which is teach the tec stuff.   If you can't fix it you won't make it harder for me by trying.  Besides, if I kick the bucket you should know how to fix them anyhow!

Pull the sprue plate off and lap its sliding surface smooth and flat again on a precision ground flat plate of steel or plate of glass with a sheet of 220 grit wet or dry paper laid on top.  Pull the hold down finger and do the same with the top of the blocks.  and  the socket side of the mating faces of the mold.  On the block with pins protruding, use a new flat bastard file to gently smooth the face, working with file held flat on the block face and  going around the pins if there is a buildup of trash.   DO NOT remove the pins under any condition!  If they are loose, which will be evident if bullets are out of round, set them a little deeper using a 1/4 pin punch.

 This will stop finning at the base on 95% of battered molds.  Don't try to remove all the sprueplate wear on the top of the mold.  Just make it 'clean up" around the cavities.

If you have bullets sticking in the cavities study the offending cavity very closely around the edges and you'll find a small burr where the metal has been banged and upset into the cavity.  Remove it with a razor sharp pen knife and bullets will fall out easily again.

If you cannot find a burr using strong magnification, use a tuft of 3 0 steel wool and with the blocks open, use this plug of wool to wipe up and out on all edges of the cavity except the top.  This will clean any lead fuzz or fine dirt buildup which causes hangup, yet three ought steel wool is gentle enough that you'll have to work till your fingers are raw to remove enough metal to damage the mold.

This information applies to all molds except LEE, which are near impossible to take apart after being used a while, and don't have a flat bottom sprue plate, or block . faces which can be lapped.