Author Topic: Can I get a stainless steel gun blued? (Read 776 times)

The deerslayer · « **on:** July 30, 2004, 09:19:58 AM »

I think this fits in here. Can I get a stainless steel gun blued? I seen one I would like to get but It only comes in stainless steel. I dont like stainless.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 30, 2004, 11:41:51 AM »

There are companies that advertise in GunList that they blue stainless steel. It can be done but the materials cost more so expect to pay more than for a chromoly gun. It's also possible to powder coat stainless. Some of these powder coats have some camo like properties.

Mikey · « **Reply #2 on:** August 02, 2004, 02:13:17 AM »

fred722: I had a stainless steel barrel installed on my S&W Model 29 - they bead blasted the entire piece and blued it to match - it came out looking like a nice smooth matt finish and I am very happy with it.

So, to answer your question, yes stainless can be blued but I think that unless you did something like I did, that is to have it bead blasted or something else so the blue would take evenly to the stainless steel you would relly have to do a buncha research to find the smith to do it.

There is a place in Florida - Checkmate I think it is called, that can/will refinish just about any gun just about any way you want it refinished. HTH. Mikey.

maddmaxx · « **Reply #3 on:** August 04, 2004, 10:27:24 AM »

I hear some cast iron recievers are steel plated to allow bluing to take. What's the possibility of doing that with stainless; anyone have experience with something like that?

gunnut69 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 04, 2004, 01:23:11 PM »

Iron plating was done early on in an attempt to color the difficult to color stainless alloys. Some of the earlier M70 Westerners had stainless barrels that were plated and blued. Brownells has developed the chemicals to blue stainless alloys and so have others I'm sure. It would almost certainly cost more to plate the rifle before bluing.. Contact one of the refinishers advertising in GunList or ShotgunNews and get a price quote.. You can ship the weapon to the company and they can ship it back without the need for a FFL holder... Be certain to insure the gun when shipping and package securely. I use USPS for long guns as UPS is not a gunfriendly organization..

m14dan · « **Reply #5 on:** August 06, 2004, 02:52:58 AM »

I do stainless steel guns and parts with gunkote normally. It comes in a variety of colors and will Not come off under normal use or wear or from cleaning solvents. Matte black has been the most popular but OD green has recently gotten more popular. Its pretty good stuff.

MI VHNTR · « **Reply #6 on:** August 06, 2004, 03:22:09 PM »

I've sprayed a couple of a friends SS Model 70s with DuraCoat in matte black. The look great and the finish is durable. It's relatively quick and not overly expensive, once you've got the basic tools, ie. compressor and a good airbrush. MI VHNTR

SHW · « **Reply #7 on:** August 06, 2004, 06:01:26 PM »

Though not bluing, I recently had a stainless gun coated with cerakote. It is a very durable baked on coating. Several colors are available. Try www.fit4duty.com. Their website is lacking, so I would give them a call.

MGMorden · « **Reply #8 on:** August 12, 2004, 08:54:48 AM »

Quote from: MI VHNTR

I've sprayed a couple of a friends SS Model 70s with DuraCoat in matte black. The look great and the finish is durable. It's relatively quick and not overly expensive, once you've got the basic tools, ie. compressor and a good airbrush. MI VHNTR

How hard is this stuff to clean out of the airbrush after using it? I've several cheapos that I wouldn't want to spray my gun with (single action brushes are too hard to keep a consistent pattern with), but I've also got a very nice Thayer and Chandler Vega 2000 that paints like a dream. I don't want to get it gunked up with something that won't clean out of it though.

MI VHNTR · « **Reply #9 on:** August 12, 2004, 03:24:24 PM »

MGMorden, the DuraCoat reducer will clean the airbrush out so that it's clean. I just make sure to use enough reducer and spray it through the airbrush until the reducer comes out clean after spraying. I also wipe any of the small parts off by hand , if necessary. You have 6 hours after the DuraCoat is mixed with hardner to use it/clean your airbrush. Once it cures, good luck removing it. FWIW, I've taken some old cleaning rods which I used to hang actions while spraying them with DuraCoat and they have some overspray on them. The cured DuraCoat will not come off with xylene. It's tough stuff. I agree on the S/A airbrush too. D/A gives a much better finish. If you've got any more questions, I'd be more than happy to help you out. MI VHNTR

792nailum · « **Reply #10 on:** August 15, 2004, 06:53:37 AM »

I have found the best way to go on all metal is ROBAR IND. in Phoenix, Az. There Roguard finish has worked for me for a bunch of years. While not cheap "man does it work". Nothing better arond salt water too. It is a mil spec. product!