Author Topic: Moly, check this out.  (Read 636 times)

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Offline KF9VH

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Moly, check this out.
« on: August 26, 2004, 01:56:26 PM »

Offline KN

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« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2004, 02:12:11 PM »
I never understood all the hoopla about molly in the first place. It was supposed to let you shoot more between cleanings but you were supposed to "prep" the bore first. How is that a time savings over cleaning the bore? I never read any tests that showed it was any more accurate. Just a few feet per second faster was all. Not a very good trade off for all the hassle and expense if you ask me.  KN

Offline Donna

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« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2004, 10:44:02 PM »
From my research the Moly that is used as a coating for bullets is the dry lub form and is highly hydroscopic, meaning it attracts water in this case from the atmosphere, and does not provide any type of anti-rusting properties and cakes on the bore unlike an oil base Moly. But I no longer recommend the oil based Moly any more and never recommended the dry Moly.

Donna :wink:
"Wherefore, my beloved brethren, let every man be swift to hear, slow to speak, slow to wrath: For the wrath of man worketh not the righteousness of God. James 1:19-20

Offline Questor

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« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2004, 12:52:19 AM »
The real advantage to moly is for extended shooting sessions, such as on prairie dog shooting.  You can start with a clean bore, shoot longer than you can with uncoated bullets, and then clean it up at the end of the day rather than cutting into your shooting time by cleaning your bore during the day.
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Offline Wlscott

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« Reply #4 on: August 27, 2004, 05:07:22 AM »
Donna, what do you recommend for cleaning moly out of your bore?  I used a combination of Butches Bore Shine, and Kroil (alternating patches of each) and it seemed to work ok.

I kept at it until I had completely clean patches coming out.  

I tried moly in one of my guns for a while just to see if the hype was true.  I didn't see much change, and it was a pain to clean it out of hte barrel.  I'm going back to regular uncoated bullets now and want to make sure that I have all of the moly out of the barrel before I shoot an uncoated bullet in it.
You haven't hunted......Until you've hunted the hunters

Offline Donna

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« Reply #5 on: August 27, 2004, 08:23:05 AM »
Wes,

What you are doing is about the best for cleaning. About five years ago I treated my .30-06 with a special oil based Moly and for the past three years I’ve been cleaning it out. The Moly oil that I used did not have the problems that you get from the dry Moly but the oil based Moly was very expensive and any ware on a part like the extractor was magnified, I had to get a new extractor. In my opinion there is no benefit to using Moly in any form. If you cannot take the timeout to clean the bore every 30 to 40 rounds and have a Coke or Pepsi at the same time to give your shoulder a brake and relax, sounds more like annihilation than fun to me. This is my opinion; I’m not trying to step on anyone’s toes here.

Donna
"Wherefore, my beloved brethren, let every man be swift to hear, slow to speak, slow to wrath: For the wrath of man worketh not the righteousness of God. James 1:19-20

Offline Catfish

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« Reply #6 on: August 27, 2004, 02:58:41 PM »
I tried Molly in a .17 Rem. and after aabout 1,000 rounds I lost accuracy. After 12 hrs. with all kinds of soulvants,brass brushes and J.B.`s Bore past I got it to shooting again. Like a fool I thought I would shoot up the couple of boxes of Molly coated bullets I had left. After another 25 to 30 rounds my accuracy went South again. After 24 hrs., not all at one time, of scrubbing the bore it would not shoot. As a last resort befor rebarreling the gun I tried Fire Lapping. It worked, but how many rounds I took off the life of an already old barrel by fire lapping I`ll never know. STAY AWAY FROM MOLLY!!!!!!!

Offline Reed1911

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« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2004, 10:29:55 PM »
Wow, I love this topic, moly that is.
Moly works if and only if, it is applied to a clean, smooth, dry bore. The bore will need to be molyed as well as the bullets. No fouling, and the moly comes out with normal brushing. It does NOT improve accuracy nor does it increase speed, if anything it will decrease speed by virtue that you could loose some of the frictional coefficient and not build as much pressure. The other side is that a bore that is in such a condition that the moly will clean out of easily, will also allow the copper to be cleaned out as easily. What have learned? That moly lubricant is a great tool for industries as a dry film lubricant, but our industry does not see any real use for it.
There is one limited place for it, at least for they type I use. I use a spray based type that is held suspended in an alcohol base, sprayed on, and left a few seconds to dry.  On cast lead it works fine to aid in reduction of fouling. Does it really? I dunno' if it really does or not for sure, seems to, but it does help me get rid of 16 cans I have left:)
Ron Reed
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Offline Flash

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« Reply #8 on: August 28, 2004, 01:30:41 AM »
I remember using Moly lube for setting cam shaft and crank bearings for the initial engine starting. This was a paste and it's a very good lubricant for those applications but bullet lube?? Naaaa.... the bullet manufacturers made alot of money on that gimmick.
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Offline Reed1911

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« Reply #9 on: August 28, 2004, 01:35:34 AM »
You know I completely forgot until I started loading this morning. It's a perfect lube for you press. The dry moly that is, espically for the progressives that "leak" a little powder. The dry moly won't attract powder like oils and greese will. Now some parts have to be lubed with greese, for that I use pure lanolin:)

Yup, cranks are well lubed with paste moly, it also makes getting rings on and off eaiser. Works as an awesome thread anti-sieze on all sorts of stuff mainly for us on scope threads.
Ron Reed
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Offline Loader 3009

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« Reply #10 on: August 28, 2004, 11:20:53 PM »
I have been moly-coating bullets for my varmint rifles for five years.  My group sizes shrunk by 50%.

I found the secret to making moly work properly is to polish the bullets after coating.  This removes the excess which creates the fouling that is so undesireable.  I can wipe one of my bullets on a clean, white shirt without leaving a mark.

That spray stuff has got to be one of the worst ideas of the century.

I don't look for a clean, white patch after cleaning the bores.  That would be counter-productive.

I have also found that coating rounds for semi-auto pistols will sometimes solve feeding problems.
Don't believe everything you think.

Offline Chief

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« Reply #11 on: August 29, 2004, 07:25:19 AM »
I've been watching this thread with interest.  Hopefully this is in line with the current discussion versus a new subject.  I was hoping for some opinions on moly lube on cast bullets.   Do most of the above comments apply to Moly lube also?  I have some Lyman moly lube but mostly use a mix I found somewhere of 50% Moly Sta Lube and 50% Bee's wax.  Seems to work "ok" so far but I certainly don't want to create a problem down the road.  I don't shoot every week like a lot of you so I generally clean my guns after ever trip to the range.
Thanks
Chief

Offline Reed1911

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« Reply #12 on: August 29, 2004, 07:37:49 AM »
You must have missed it when I posted it, I've used it with lead and it might reduce fouling. If it works for you use it! You are not going to hurt anything, at worst you might decide it's junk and have to scrub the bore clean. I do think that it does reduce fouling with cast. That's my two cents.[/quote]
Ron Reed
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Offline ButlerFord45

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« Reply #13 on: August 29, 2004, 12:15:13 PM »
I've used the Lyman Super Moly bullet lube, I liked it.  I have one pistol that so far, it is the only lube that will prevent leading.  I clean the gun after each use and have had no moly build up.  Each "use" amounts to 100 to 300 rounds.  I will be buying more.
Butler Ford
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