Author Topic: Alloying Linotype?  (Read 935 times)

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Offline Boge

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Alloying Linotype?
« on: August 25, 2004, 03:59:53 PM »
I have a buddy who has a bunch of linotype and we want to cast with it but we use soft (WW's) for our Cowboy Action Shooting. I want to alloy this linotype scientifically with pure lead. What's the mix I need to get approx. 20 to 1? I was thinking 50/50 but I am not sure and can't find a mix for linotype to pure lead using the search engine. Thanks ahead of time.

Offline talon

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Alloying Linotype?
« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2004, 05:52:33 PM »
Perhaps a mathimatition can help out knowing these facts:
linotype is 84%lead, 4% tin, and 12% antimony. Its BNH is 22.
20:1 mix is 95% lead, 5% tin, and has no Antimony. Its BNH is 10.
Obviously, you have to mix your linotype with enough lead to bring the % of antimony as close to zero as possible. On the other hand, it is just as obvious that tin has to be added as additional  lead is added. 8)

Offline Lloyd Smale

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Alloying Linotype?
« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2004, 12:43:09 AM »
cant get 20-1 by mixing lyno. Lyno has antimony and it will harden your mix. 20-1 is just pure with tin added. You arent even going to be able to get 20-1 with wheel weights. You should be able to trade your lyno for some tin though. Lyno is getting tough to find. For softer bullets that work at under 1000fps try mixing ww and pure 5050
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Offline haroldclark

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Alloying with Linotype
« Reply #3 on: August 27, 2004, 12:45:46 PM »
Hey Boge,

I have used every type of lead, linotype, wheelweights and many uncertain contents.  There is no secret formula for mixing or using casting materials.  What is important that you use a consistent mixture.

I have used pure wheelweights for low velocity handgun loads and for magnum loads.  I have taken soft lead from meltings of recovered jacketed bullets and mixed it with linotype and wheelweights.  They all shoot well and don't harm your gun.  I have never worn out a pistol barrel with alloy bullets, but I have tried.

Try mixing your lead (what ever type it is) with 3 pounds to 1 of linotype.  I currently use 3 to 1 (WW to Linotype) just to use up several hundred pounds of lino.  My wife told me not to leave that stuff laying around after I'm gone.  For years, I used wheelweights with 2% tin.  The tin doesn't add an appreciable hardness to the bullets, but it does cause the edges, bases and groves to fill out nicely.  Tin makes your casting more successful.

Three to one (ww & Lino) will provide great casting for you.  We never know what the actual make up of wheelweights are.  I keep my different casts separated with dates and mixtures.

My last cast produced 2600 plus inspected keepers over several days of work.  I cast 38 special wadcutters, 44 Special 240s and 173 grain rifle bullets from the same pot at the same time by rotating molds.  They all work great whether in an old cowboy gun or in a 30-06 rifle.

I have a big cast iron bean pot and a burner in which I melt down the wheelweights and pour it into 1 pound ingots.  I keep the pot half full in hopes that the mix will be of similar makings.  I cast my lino into 1 pound ingots too.  That makes the scientific calculations very simple.  My cast bullets don't know that they don't have much class, but they shoot great.

If I were going to be shooting a black powder cartridge rifle, I would use pure lead and tin in a 20 to 1 mix (1 tin) and maybe even a 30 to 1.  I have tried my harder cast bullets in a 45/70 Springfield Trapdoor rifle with 24 grains of 2400 and they shoot just fine too.  

The bottom line is that there is no magic about all this, just keep doing it.

Harold Clark

Offline Leftoverdj

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Alloying Linotype?
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2004, 03:55:37 AM »
Boge, where are you and how much lino do you have?

I'm long on lead and WW and short on linotype.

Linotype is getting scarce and seems somehow to land in the hands of those who need a softer alloy. It's best for everyone to work a swap and there will almost certainly be someone who needs it close enough to swap with you.
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