Sir,as a kid I ask more questions than Job would have the patients to answer. I also had some of the greatest mentors in the world. To begin with start with a rim fire when your learning, the pressures are lower, you have more steel with the small calibers. More steel equals more strength, also your welds are not as critical with a 22 long rifle as a 223. You will need to buy your block with out the hinge pin hole. Welding has a way of making steel move with the heat. A perfect set up after it cools may, or I should say will probably be off enough that your pin will not line up. Drilling after the welding takes care or that. It can be welded with any one of several different type welds. Tig will work best using a rod that matches barrel and block steel, and will require less grinding and finishing. Things like your extractor groove can be done without a mill before the block is welded on. A rim fire extractor has to fit perfect or the cases will bulge and hang. Your barrel has to match factory specs in the lug area for your measurement for the hinge pin to work. As you can see it is do able, but a lot of work and special tools are hard to get around. It takes me a day from blank, to a shootable barrel, and that does not include polishing, blueing, etc. At the trade I work at it is cheaper for me to work and buy a barrel. The last gun show I went to I bought a wildcat barrel with dies for less than my labor was worth to make them. Practice doing a lot of welding, if your going to hire this stuff done then buy a barrel, it will be a lot cheaper. Building one your self ain't cheap. At least now you have a look into what building one takes. The doing is a real eye opener. Graybeard, I pray you understand the lesson in Contender barrels, and if you want to delete this I have no problems with your decision. Thanks for a great site. FB