Howdy,
I blatently stole this from another list I follow. It's about homemade paper shotcups. If Fred is reading this, thanks for your helpfull instructions. Fred writes:
I'll preface this with the disclaimer that the way I make shotcups isn't
totally period correct, in that the paper I use and glue aren't period
correct at all. I'm sure there are other ways to make them, but these work for me. As far as I can determine, originals were made with multiple layers of paper and hide glue. You can use 90lb. card stock for paper, however, I prefer 100lb. I haven't found any better glue than Barge Cement. You need a glue that dries fast and os very strong.
Now, here's where you really have to pay close attention to detail, if you
want all your effort to pay off. You have to use a hardwood dowel for your
"form" to make the shotcups. You have to wrap the dowel EXACTLY twice for each shotcup. Thus, you will also need sandpaper to take down the dowel (keeping it still round) so that when you've made a shotcup, it just slides all the way down in a clean bore. You CAN make shotcups that are even stronger with EXACTLY 3 wraps of paper. Note that all this will require some time as you "custom fit" the dowel and paper to the bore. 2 wraps of paper is a minimum, and 3 is best.
Once you have all that done, you'll need to "calculate" the width of each
strip of paper so that each shotcup will be the same proper length. Yes, on
the above stage, make a note of EXACTLY the length of paper you need.
Now, you've probably already shot your smoothbore, and know what the best powder and shot load is for it. Most .62 bores, like my Tulle, like 80gr. of ffg and 80gr. of shot....BOTH by a powder measure, NOT by weight. I also use a card wad over the powder, then a fiber wad, then the shotcup, then another card wad.
Ok.......here's how you make your second "calculation" (shotcup paper width). Make a shotcup by applying a THIN coat of Barge Cement at the beginning of the SECOND wrap and all the way out to the end of the paper. Once dry, fold one end of the cup from opposite sides, and apply a tad bit of Barge Cement to secure it....as you fold over the 2nd fold. I usually but the dowel in the cup and "rap" it hard on a block of wood to make sure there's good contact between the glue and paper, and also make sure the "end" is flat. Now pour in a load of shot. Measure above where the top of the shot is, adding enough length to form a closing end of the shotcup. Now you know the dimensions of your shotcup.
Simply take a pencil and ruler and mark off a bunch of shotcup strips and cut them out. However you cut them, make CERTAIN that ALL edges are straight, or you'll likely have problems."
I enjoyed his post about shotcups. It's an interesting idea I've read about before but never tried. I think when the weather breaks around here I may experiment some myself. In the meantime, have any of you guys tried this? When do you use them.? For all your shotgunning or only for hunting? Are they really that much faster than a shot snake? Also do they tighten up the pattern any? I use the dreaded plastic with steel for waterfowl and they definatly tighten the pattern for me. Does card stock act the same? Also how do you carry them in your bag? Inquiring minds want to know
