Author Topic: accurizing question (Read 754 times)

MINNESOTA DICK · « **on:** October 13, 2004, 02:16:29 AM »

I posted this on an other board and didn't get any answers so I will try it here and see what the results are.

Well, I hear and read about all of the differnt people accurizing their Ruger #1v's.

My question is what are the steps or procedures that are required for doing this accurizing? Oh, and what is the general cost for doing it?

I have a Ruger #1v in a 220 Swift and am just trying to learn something. I know that I wouldn't be able to do it my self and would have to hire it done, but don't know what is involed in doing it and would like a better understanding of it.

thanks

gunnut69 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 13, 2004, 08:33:18 AM »

There are several things that can be done to improve the accuracy in the No.1's. Normally the forearm is isolated from all contact with the barrel and the forearm hanger is threaded(or a device added) that applys pressure to the barrel to increase rigidity and control vibration.. Recutting the crown is often done as is trigger work. This latter includes replacing the trigger and hammer, usually the hammer is replaced with a lighter model and the hammer spring is replaced with one creating more pressure. The trigger is replaced with an adjustable unit. On the V model it's of less importance but the models with ribs need the rib altered so that it doesn't contact the front face of the receiver. I usually replace the rib(or alter it) so that the scope can be mounted with the correct eye relief. Cryo processing and lapping the barrel can also be done but return on the investment may be in some doubt. I usually bed the forearm so that the verticle portion that meets the receiver is solidly bedded but the curved portion isn't touching at all.. I have not done it myself but have heard of barrels with extremely long throats being set back and rechambered to help with accuracy..this can also help with a barrel witha badly eroded throat.

MINNESOTA DICK · « **Reply #2 on:** October 14, 2004, 01:35:26 AM »

Big time thank-you for the reply gunnut69.

After reading your reply I guess I am well on my way to accurizing my Ruger 1v 220 swift.

1) I have repaced the factory trigger with a Moyers adjustable trigger and have it set at about 2#.

2) Have repaced the hammer and spring with a Moyers hammer and spring kit.

3) Had my gunsmith touched up the crown. He just kissed it.

The only thing it looks like I have to yet have done is the forearm isolateation. I have thought about having a Hicks accurizer installed.

I talked to my gunsmith yesterday and he told me if it don't shoot as good as I wanted it to shoot the problem was either me, load development, scope, or replace the barrel. He don't like Ruger factory barrels.

So her I sit trying to decide what to do.

Don Buckbee · « **Reply #3 on:** October 14, 2004, 05:49:32 AM »

To get my Number 1 in 22 Hornet to shoot, I had to have a hole drilled and tapped in the forend hanger with a screw inserted to contact the bottom of the barrel to "tune" the barrel. It shoots like a champ now!!! I seriously doubt that it's the Ruger barrel that is bad if it doesn't shoot well. I've studied these rifles for years and many people wind up doing the "tune" job I mentioned to get accuracy from them. I tried everything I could do before the "tune" to get it to shoot, to no avail. The rib on top needs to be clear of the receiver so it doesn't fit tight up against it, as well as the forend should have a small clearance from the receiver. My Hornet now shoots 3/8" 5 shot groups at 50 yards easily and I'm just working up the most accurate load now; haven't found the best one yet. I bought some Lil-Gun to try which is supposed to be great in the Hornet. Before the "tune" job, I got 1 1/2" groups at 50 yards. Lateral dispersion was good, but there was bad vertical stringing.
Don

MINNESOTA DICK · « **Reply #4 on:** October 15, 2004, 03:05:32 AM »

Questions:

What size hole?

what size and type of screw?

Where is the location of the hole on the hanger bar?

Boy I sure wished I would have stayed at a Holiday Inn last night and I wouldn't need to ask these questions. :-)

Just trying to learn something.

gunnut69 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 15, 2004, 07:23:52 AM »

I too love the hornet. I've 3 just now a M54 Winchester, a Kimber 82C and a CZ527 FS.. The CZ is the most accurate although the Kimber was doing OK before a piece of the bedding broke out. LiL-Gun is majic in the Hornet... follow the load data and prepare to be amazed!

The Hicks accurizer is a device that bolts to the forearm hanger on the Ruger SS action and provides an adjustment screw... I drill just behind the recess for the rotating nut for the forearm screw. Drill and tap for 6-48 or 6-32.. I use the 6-48 although the 6-32 is available as a set screw with a point. A flat circle of metal(I use the cut off head of a hornet case) is slipped between the hanger and the barrel and the set screw is tightened.. This allows the barrel to move even when the tension is applied. A point on the screw will fit in the flash hole of the case head and the flat will press evenly against the bottom of the barrel.. When the tuning is over the set screw is sut so as to be below the hanger's surface when correctly tightened and a plus screw is put into the hole to cover and lock the set screw from further movement. One can simply use blue locktite on the full length screw if you wish.. I usually let the forearm touch the receiver on the verticle flat at the rear of the forearm but relieve contact on the associated curved surface.

MINNESOTA DICK · « **Reply #6 on:** October 18, 2004, 02:13:18 AM »

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, but you know how it is. (busy)

I just want to say thanks of the replys and all of the good info that was posted.